Trillium trailer 12V wiring - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-02-2011, 11:26 PM   #29
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Name: Francesca Knowles
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Hello again,

It sounds like somebody's been "working" on your wiring; Trillium used that diagram for years.
I would definitely restore the wiring to match the diagram; it'll be a lot easier to work with down the road.
I'm a bit confused by your description of the fusebox- is it possible for you to post a picture? I think we'd be able to tell by looking if it's been replaced, and with what.
The hot fusebox would be a big concern for me- are you sure it's the fusebox, and not the wire? Wire that's too light will heat up, especially if somebody replaced the original copper with aluminum without upsizing the wire guage.
And what are you running off 12v when it gets hot?
The blue wire is your trailer brakes.
The yellow wire is an "extra". If your TV towplug is wired for backup lights, you can use the yellow wire for backup lights or camera. Maybe both, depending on voltage involved. It should run to both of your trailer taillights, though not hooked up.
I think that without a converter, you can connect a battery at the front where the fusebox is.
But get the fusebox squared away first!

Francesca
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:06 AM   #30
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 1300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Hello again,

It sounds like somebody's been "working" on your wiring; Trillium used that diagram for years.
I would definitely restore the wiring to match the diagram; it'll be a lot easier to work with down the road.
I'm a bit confused by your description of the fusebox- is it possible for you to post a picture? I think we'd be able to tell by looking if it's been replaced, and with what.
The hot fusebox would be a big concern for me- are you sure it's the fusebox, and not the wire? Wire that's too light will heat up, especially if somebody replaced the original copper with aluminum without upsizing the wire guage.
And what are you running off 12v when it gets hot?
The blue wire is your trailer brakes.
The yellow wire is an "extra". If your TV towplug is wired for backup lights, you can use the yellow wire for backup lights or camera. Maybe both, depending on voltage involved. It should run to both of your trailer taillights, though not hooked up.
I think that without a converter, you can connect a battery at the front where the fusebox is.
But get the fusebox squared away first!

Francesca
Hi,

Actually, my wiring does match the diagram exactly, except that my unit never had a battery and the fuse in the fuse carrier is 15amp vs. 20amp. I will post a picture of the fuse carrier to see if it matches other peoples.

All I am running on the fuse when it gets hot is the fridge, and the various stock lights and not all at the same time. I am thinking it may be due to the 15amp fuse in there instead of the 20amp fuse.

~Rod
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:04 PM   #31
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Hi,

Actually, my wiring does match the diagram exactly, except that my unit never had a battery and the fuse in the fuse carrier is 15amp vs. 20amp. I will post a picture of the fuse carrier to see if it matches other peoples.

All I am running on the fuse when it gets hot is the fridge, and the various stock lights and not all at the same time. I am thinking it may be due to the 15amp fuse in there instead of the 20amp fuse.

~Rod
Hi, Rodre

It's strange to me that the fusebox heats up, but the fuse doesn't blow
The fridge does draw a lot of power, though.
Is it strictly a 12v/110v fridge? I ask because I understand that you're carrying two propane tanks- if you've got a 3-way fridge, you might want to consider running it off propane when camped. It's my understanding that12v was originally intended for traveling.
I'm going to put out a call for somebody to weigh in here that knows more about wiring than I do.
Stay tuned!

Francesca
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:12 PM   #32
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Hi Francesca,

Actually, the fuse did blow once so far, that is how I found the fuse carrier. The trailer is still pretty new to me so I am still figuring it out. Yes, the fridge is a 3 way and I was using the 12vdc for travelling. The fuse carrier in the driver side front area of the trailer is blue in color and of the "inline" type. I noticed the fridge also has a 10amp ceramic fuse in the "control box" in a similar type of fuse carrier. I wasn't sure if someone installed the fuse carrier in the driver side front compartment because the fuse in the fridges control box kept blowing, to make it easier access for a change or not. From the wiring diagram it would appear that the fuse in the driver side compartment of the trailer is factory, but now I am not sure if it is supposed to have a 20amp fuse like the wiring diagram depicts, or the 15amp fuse that was in there. I am thinking maybe someone put in the 15amp fuse because that is all they had on hand and that may be what is causing the heat build up.

Any additional info would be much appreciated and I will post a picture of the wiring in that area for comparison sake once I get home later tonight. Thanks!

~Rodre
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:19 PM   #33
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Rodre,

I put out a M'aidez (HELP ME!) call at another thread-
Here's hoping!

Francesca
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:31 PM   #34
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Rodre,

I put out a M'aidez (HELP ME!) call at another thread-
Here's hoping!

Francesca
OK,,,, I'll try.
Let's start with the Scamp wiring diagram. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...gram_Scamp.pdf
It's close enough if not the same the start with.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:34 PM   #35
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Hmmm, I am getting "Page not found" when I use that link. I will try to find it in the doc center.

~Rodre
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Old 05-03-2011, 02:27 PM   #36
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Rod, try this one: Fiberglass RV - Document Center - WiringDiagram_Scamp
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:18 PM   #37
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If it helps at all, here's a picture of the factory setup in my '78 4500. When I installed outside access doors, I moved the box to the wall-original location is unpainted spot on floor at lower left corner of pic. No changes otherwise.
The harness I'm holding in the picture is battery power line-there are two 15A fuses here-???
Trailer came from factory with a converter...

.............Click image for larger version

Name:	<a title=Trillium front wires 003.jpg Views: 18 Size: 204.3 KB ID: 35636" style="margin: 2px" />...............Click image for larger version

Name:	Trillium front wires 002.jpg
Views:	24
Size:	277.0 KB
ID:	35635

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Old 05-04-2011, 11:03 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
If it helps at all, here's a picture of the factory setup in my '78 4500. When I installed outside access doors, I moved the box to the wall-original location is unpainted spot on floor at lower left corner of pic. No changes otherwise.
The harness I'm holding in the picture is battery power line-there are two 15A fuses here-???
Trailer came from factory with a converter...

.............Attachment 35636...............Attachment 35635

Francesca
Hi,

Thanks for the pictures! Hmmm, my inline fuse carrier is different and I only have one, but maybe the 15 amp fuse is the correct one? I got home late last night and didn't have a chance to photograph mine but I will try again to do it tonight. I need to get to the bottom of this before I move forward with the battery installation. Nice access doors!

~Rod
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:58 PM   #39
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Can you determine the gauge of the wire your fuse holder is hooked up in? If it is 14 gauge, your would be limited (for fire safety) to only a 15 amp fuse. If it is 12 gauge wire, it can handle 20 amp fuse. A 10 gauge wire can up you to 30 amps, but don't discount the maximum rating of the appliance being served. It's not all just about the wire size, but the rating of the load or appliance as well. Least common denominator kinda thing.

Check all your terminals and connection points for corrosion and poor connections too. Extra resistance = extra heat production.
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:30 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Rodre View Post
Hello,

My tow vehicle has the 12v charge line (I think, it is a GMC Envoy and according to the 6th post at Red wire Where ? [Archive] - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum it will charge a trailer battery. I know it will run the interior lighting and the fridge) from the alternator post that goes to the 7 pin wiring harness at the rear of the vehicle. Would it be possible for me to install a 12v deep cycle battery in the trailer and have the tow vehicle charge it and the trailer run off of it? If so how would I go about doing this? It may be worth mentioning that my Trillium does not have a power converter and the AC & DC power appear to be completely separate, with a breaker for the 110v power under the furnace.

Also, I noticed a 15amp fuse in a blue plastic fuse terminal located at the driver side front of the trailer, where the 7 pin wire connected to the tow vehicle meets the trailers wiring [harness]. This fuse terminal gets pretty hot. I can't tell if this is factory installed or not. My guess is that it is not. My trailer is a '78 Trillium 1300. Can anyone tell me if this is factory and if it is normal to get hot? Thanks!

~Rodre
On my Trillium 4500, the first thing that the main wire from the battery sees once it gets into the trailer is an automatically resetting circuit breaker, which was original equipment. The 12V interior wiring originally was separated into two paths. One went to the fridge, and the other went to the back of the trailer for the interior lights (and propane detector). Since my trailer had a converter, the back wire went to it, where there was a switch that a person could flip to select either the battery power or the converter output for the interior lights. The wiring was a floppy mess in the front driver side dinette compartment screwed to the floor much like in Francesca’s photo.

If you are getting heat from any wiring, the most likely culprit is a bad (high resistance) connection. Resistance to current flow creates heat, that is how your electric stove works.

The mess of wires also includes all the wiring that runs from the 7 pin trailer connector to the exterior stop and tail and marker lights. These wires, though they run inside the trailer, have nothing to do with the interior lighting/appliance system other than being physically in the same cable. It is just a messy coincidence that all the wires are together.

I recently added another circuit (a 12V outlet on the front dinette seat wall which also serves as an inlet for my battery charger) and moved the whole mess up against the dinette wall so that I could put in a false wall so that the storage compartment could be utilized better. I also put in an ATO-style fuse block ($9 at Princess Auto) and wired all the 12V interior wiring through it for my 3 circuits. I also installed a new 110V outlet on the kitchen unit and a power bar inside the cabinet for attaching more stuff later. I am including a circuit diagram that shows all of my current 110V and 12V wiring for the interior circuits of the trailer. The one thing missing from that diagram is a battery disconnect switch right at the battery that I have bought but not yet installed, which will let me easily disconnect the battery from everything.

Hope that helps.
Rick G
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:10 PM   #41
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Really cool diagram and great-looking plan but AAARGH !!!
I see you have two separate and distinct ground connections.
We just got very thoroughly taught that this is BAD BAD BAD.
Plus, it's BAD.
The thread is a "current" discussion at Lights flicker when furnace is on, page two is the explanation.
I'm going to go lie down with a wet rag on my head while the controversy goes on.
Later!


Francesca
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:28 PM   #42
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I am wondering if they put the auto reseting fuses in the units with the converters and the el cheapo one in the units without the converter? Does anyone have a late 70's 1300 without the converter? I haven't had a good chance to give the wiring a good examination in the harness area, but the bulk of it I have seen through the trailer looks factory. My feeling was it was getting hot from the load put on it by the fridge, or because maybe it should have had a 20amp fuse, but I will look for wires in the wrong direction as well. I am also going to see if I can identify the wire guage as mentioned a few posts above. I will also try and get a photo of it all here. Last night I got side tracked when I found 20 year old cola/chocolate syrup/soya sauce/idunnowhat spilled in the corner of the cupboard and ended up having to pull the 110v light, it's conduit which had rusted out due to the spill, and the ensolite to clean up the sticky/oily/gross mess. The ensolite cleaned up quite nicely, even the rubber foam backing, so now I need to put all that back in and source a new conduit. If anyone has their old unsued conduit kicking around I would love to get my hands on it to save me from trying to find one with the right hole pattern that matches the ones already drilled in the fiberglass.

~Rod
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