Trillium trailer 12V wiring - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-23-2011, 11:32 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by KevinWA View Post
sorry for the hi-jack...but this seems to be related...ihope!

our 1978 4500 does not have a battery. it has the progressive converter.

wanting to know if the fridge is powered off 12v when pluged into shore power? does the fridge get its power from the converter or does it come from the 120volt side?

someone here mentioned using a delran battery tender as a battery charger(smart) in place of the old converter............i ues 3 of these for other toys when i'm away from home for extended times, so i am fimiliar with how they work(very well!!).........if you were to do this would you complety seperate your 120volt /12 volt systems? and wire up a 120 volt home plug for your smart charger for charging the battery ?

just thinking about re-wiring and adding a battery... looking for tips? thank you
Hi Kevin,

I think you may want to start here:

Fiberglass RV - Document Center - trillium 1300 wiring diagram

is the fridge 2 way or 3 way?

~Rod
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:34 PM   #86
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fridge is 3 way....your are fast!! thanks
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:58 PM   #87
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fridge is 3 way....your are fast!! thanks
Hmmm, that is a tough one for me because mine doesn't have the converter and I am not familiar with it. I started to type a big long answer but it would have only served to confuse you. The manual for my fridge, which is a Dometic RM211 states: "The polarity is not important, but the body or chassis of the automobile or trailer should not be used as a substitute for one of the wires" and "The current is 8 amps when the refrigerator is operating on 12 volts therefore the wiring from the battery to the fridge must be heavy enough to carry this load satisfactorily without voltage drop. The minimum size of wiring to be used is 14 A.W.G.".

The 12 volt wiring might connect to the power converter, so you can run the fridge on 12vdc either from the battery or when it is plugged in to 110vac and converting. Keep in mind it draws 8 amps so it may overload the converter so you may just want to connect it directly to to the battery as the manual suggests. This way it is either getting powered from 12vdc while you are driving, 110vac while at an RV park, or propane while off grid.

I think you should wait until someone who has a similar setup as yours answers.

Sorry I couldn't be much more help.

~Rodre
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:03 AM   #88
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Hmmm, that is a tough one for me because mine doesn't have the converter and I am not familiar with it. I started to type a big long answer but it would have only served to confuse you. The manual for my fridge, which is a Dometic RM211 states: "The polarity is not important, but the body or chassis of the automobile or trailer should not be used as a substitute for one of the wires" and "The current is 8 amps when the refrigerator is operating on 12 volts therefore the wiring from the battery to the fridge must be heavy enough to carry this load satisfactorily without voltage drop. The minimum size of wiring to be used is 14 A.W.G.".

The 12 volt wiring might connect to the power converter, so you can run the fridge on 12vdc either from the battery or when it is plugged in to 110vac and converting. Keep in mind it draws 8 amps so it may overload the converter so you may just want to connect it directly to to the battery as the manual suggests. This way it is either getting powered from 12vdc while you are driving, 110vac while at an RV park, or propane while off grid.

I think you should wait until someone who has a similar setup as yours answers.

Sorry I couldn't be much more help.

~Rodre
In re-reading your question the simple answer is yes, the wiring is all separate. The back of the fridge on mine has a rotary switch where you choose either 12vdc or 110vac. If you want to use propane you have to turn this switch to the off posistion so you can turn the small lever to start the propane flow (it has an interloc so you can't start electric operation if propane is already running and visa-versa).

~Rodre
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:37 AM   #89
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In re-reading your question the simple answer is yes, the wiring is all separate. The back of the fridge on mine has a rotary switch where you choose either 12vdc or 110vac. If you want to use propane you have to turn this switch to the off posistion so you can turn the small lever to start the propane flow (it has an interloc so you can't start electric operation if propane is already running and visa-versa).

~Rodre
Online version of fridge manual:

http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/r...meticRM211.pdf

~Rod
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:43 PM   #90
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Online version of fridge manual:

http://www.nationalserroscotty.org/r...meticRM211.pdf

~Rod

very cool...many thanks!! i am having a hard time trusting the old wires and converter....last summer when we bought the camper, i found tin foil on the fuse in the pwer converter..and it would HUMM and get warm....so i went on a hunt for a new converter....after removal and close inspection, i found the fuse holder to be in poor condition.contacts inside were not great....after looking for a replacement(fuse holder) online, i found one in michigan..not worth the hassel to get it shipped accross the boader to Canada!! so i installed a new push in blade style in line fuse.........the HUMMing went away, and the new fuse holder does not get hot, and it does not blow.........yup, long story bla bla bla...........so all seems to be good, but i just wonder if it is worth redoing??

thank you for your help....now i got another project to do!!
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:45 PM   #91
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very cool...many thanks!! i am having a hard time trusting the old wires and converter....last summer when we bought the camper, i found tin foil on the fuse in the pwer converter..and it would HUMM and get warm....so i went on a hunt for a new converter....after removal and close inspection, i found the fuse holder to be in poor condition.contacts inside were not great....after looking for a replacement(fuse holder) online, i found one in michigan..not worth the hassel to get it shipped accross the boader to Canada!! so i installed a new push in blade style in line fuse.........the HUMMing went away, and the new fuse holder does not get hot, and it does not blow.........yup, long story bla bla bla...........so all seems to be good, but i just wonder if it is worth redoing??

thank you for your help....now i got another project to do!!
Hi,

Just wanted to let you know that the RM211 fridge has an internal fuse on the 12V line (the grey wire) which is stuffed down inside the electrical controls box on the back of the fridge. I couldn’t figure out why my fridge would not work on the 12V setting when it worked great on 110V. I checked the wiring and the heater element, and everything seemed ok. Then I noticed the fuse on the electrical diagram in my owners manual, and fished it out of the wiring box on the fridge. It was an open circuit, and the fuse holder was melted and deformed so that it could not be opened to change the fuse. I cut it off and tied the wires together with a Marrette connector. I had already installed a fuse in my fuse block for the fridge 12V wiring, so that internal fuse was not necessary. Now it works correctly.

If you have no battery, perhaps you should just run the fridge on the 110V setting? The 8 or so amps the fridge draws on 12V (mine draws 8.3 amps) will use up most of your 10 amps available from the stock converter.

Rick G.
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:03 PM   #92
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i printed a copy read it twice.........i think i understand how the elec sides of the fridge works now...thank you. i will file it away in the camper to read again some rainy evening.
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