Trim line Bag Awning - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-25-2013, 12:29 PM   #15
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I have double hull with my UH and I went with butyl tape under the awing rail, and pop-rivets every 3rd hole in the awning rail. I've left it up in very strong winds and it holds like a trooper.

You only rivet through the outside hull, so the inslide doesn't show anything.
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:40 PM   #16
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Name: Lynne
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Thanks for the advice- so am I understanding that 7' long and 6" above the door is a good fit?

I don't have the equipment to install the rail on my own- is a rivet gun expensive or should I just find someone?

Lynne
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:45 PM   #17
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I JUST came back from Home Depot where I purchased a(nother) rivet gun. Based on Gene Layton (king of Casita mods) and others on the CasitaForum recommendation, I purchased a Stanley MR77C Swivel Head Riveter. Slightly more than $22, about $15 on Amazon if you don't mind paying shipping.

I have four LED marker lights, two rear tail lights and an electrical hatch to replace. Although the rivet gun I have worked, I was looking for a GOOD one that didn't jam and I need one that works at different angles... hence the swivel head. The new one should last me the rest of my natural life. YMMV
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:23 PM   #18
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Lynne, I also put a small dab of chalking in each rivet hole as well as the butyl tape under the rail. I used every other hole, just as a safety measure and went with the 7 ft. Shademaker...Love It!
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:42 PM   #19
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George, is that a bag awning or rope & pole?
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:17 PM   #20
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Bob, It is a bag awning...
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:35 PM   #21
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Thanks George, where did you get it, how far above the door is your awning track, and the big question, what did you do to attach the rafter arms to the trailer?
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:42 PM   #22
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Thanks so much guys- now to Marti's to pick out a color
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:01 PM   #23
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Bob, I purchased on-line from RV Awnings R'US, owned by a retired Vietnam vet, cost was $185 + $25 shipping to NC and it came with the rail included in price. I placed the bottom of my rail at 8" above the door, so that the bag hangs 2" above the door. I used automotive 3M tape to fasten the ball sockets to the trailer; starting year two and still holding strong...
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:27 AM   #24
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George, thanks for the info, I was concerned that the rafter arms wouldn't work because of the ball sockets not being on a vertical surface.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:09 AM   #25
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You could make your own vintage style awning like I did.
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All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:20 AM   #26
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We have an extra rope & pole awning from our popup camper that is a foot too wide that we probably could modify, but want a bag awning because it stays on the trailer. Important in a limited storage space unit. Can't get a roll out awning short enough.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:38 AM   #27
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Bob, the nice thing about a ball socket is the range of movement; the base does not have to be perfectly vertical for proper fit. If it would help I'll take a couple of pic's later today and post?
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:09 AM   #28
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George, that would help if you have time, thanks
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