Troubles on the road, 2015 17 Casita - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-02-2016, 05:01 PM   #15
Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
Posts: 1,037
Your newer trailer is pretty sophisticated as far as trailers go. You have a modern converter and you have a very sophisticated refrigerator control system. Your heater will not be as sophisticated. The fact the the fridge and the heater are causing issues leads us down a couple of common paths. Low battery voltage is really critical with the fridge. It is less sensitive with the heater. The 2 should not be on the same circuit so less of a wiring issue inside the trailer. The the heater needs 12 volts to keep the speed up on the fan so the sail switch will open the gas valve and the heater will light. Under the 12 volts the fan won't turn fast enough so no gas. So since both units have failed its a supply issue. supply of 12 or more volts from the battery or propane the 2 common denominators.

Does the stove light? Does both burners when lit have good clean blue flames?

Does the first burner flame when lit dip down to a smaller flame when you light the second burner?
Any fluctuations in the propane questions means you may need to resolve propane supply issues.

The second issue is battery supply voltage. Check the battery voltage. check the connections at the battery. If you are using the standard trailer wiring code for the battery connection you will have white and black battery wires. Black wires go to the + terminal and white goes to the Negative post. If someone crosses this connection even for a brief moment it will usually take out a 12 volt fuse in the Black line somewhere between the battery and the converter. There may be multiple fuses in that main line. If you absolutely have 12 volts then the common denominator between the Fridge and the heater will be a failed ground wire at the battery or where the main line goes to ground. chasing fail grounds sucks.

One thing you can try is hooking up your tug to the trailer and plug in to the 7 pin socket between the ball and the 7 pin you should have close to 13 or more volts going to the trailer. Now while hooked up to the tug and running try to light the heater you should fire up like normal if its a voltage issue. If the heater fires up then try the fridge on propane.

After this you should know where the failure lies. At this point you haven't spent any money.

If I was a betting man it's the power on switch for the converter didn't allow battery charging. The battery was probably disconnected over the winter and battery hook-up was crossed up taking out one or more fuses in the main line not allowing the battery to charge while driving. With active smoke detectors and propane sensors if the battery was not disconnected or maintained by the converter on 120 volts over the winter the detectors would have murdered the battery enough so to permanently kill it. If battery was disconnected could have easily been hooked up backwards even for the briefest of moments.

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Old 06-04-2016, 04:21 AM   #16
Junior Member
Name: Judy
Trailer: Casita SD
Posts: 4
My experience says it is probably your battery. Your furnace will not work with shore power if your battery is dead. Also, there is a fuse under the hood of your TV next to the battery that allows TV battery to charge Casita battery. You can also call Larry Gamble at Little House Customs (look him up on line). Larry specializes in repairing casitas and he will be happy to help. The other item to note is never run the frog on DC or you will burn out battery in a very short time. I hope this is helpful. Oh, I also had a repair man hook up my battery backwards and it burned out my transformer. Good luck to you.


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Old 06-04-2016, 03:10 PM   #17
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Mike Magee's Avatar
Name: Michael
Trailer: Li'l Hauley
Posts: 4,523
I bet a frog on DC would be hopping like crazy.
To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven... --Ecclesiastes 3
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:54 AM   #18
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 2,866
Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
I bet a frog on DC would be hopping like crazy.
Wasn't that a famous experiment? Dead frog leg and a battery = live frog leg. That gave us Frankenstein.

I wonder about a fuse, lot of ways one can get burned out, or knocked loose. That would kill whole 12 volt system. Easy enough to have happen that I would start there.

Stevebaz outlines what has to follow, a systematic checking of the system from one end to the other, preferably with a 12 volt tester. It is a process of elimination. Only a question of which end or where to start the testing at.

Got power at:
Battery (disconnected) - No then battery is dead and that can trip fuse trying to charge a totally dead one. A dead battery can also be a load. Think trying to jump start a car with a dead battery, the jumper cables can start the car if it has no battery but not with a dead battery.

Fuses hot side and other side. Have seen glass tube fuse melt at the end from corrosion creating heat without being blown (not likely but you are there checking might as well confirm both sides)

Appliances, or their individual fuses. Best is getting actual voltage but just power/no power can find a blown fuse or disconnected wire.

Couple of folks have mentioned in prior posts the INVERTER coming unplugged. No charge so battery dies, no shore power 12 volt either. So confirm power there. And at it's fuses.

I second the idea of just asking around at the campground. Look for older camper that looks like the owner might have to "check" things from time to time or who has a truck with a tool box. I know I carry a small meter in my tools for checking this sort of thing. You can buy one at any big box store, should be less than 10 bucks. Have meter, and there are probably more people that know how to use it than carry one. Or use Google, lot of tutorials on circuit and battery testing.

Probably turn out to be something minor once found. Good Luck.

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