Your newer trailer is pretty sophisticated as far as trailers go. You have a modern converter and you have a very sophisticated refrigerator
control system. Your heater will not be as sophisticated. The fact the the fridge
and the heater are causing issues leads us down a couple of common paths. Low battery
voltage is really critical with the fridge
. It is less sensitive with the heater. The 2 should not be on the same circuit so less of a wiring issue inside the trailer. The the heater needs 12 volts to keep the speed up on the fan so the sail switch will open the gas valve and the heater will light
. Under the 12 volts the fan won't turn fast enough so no gas. So since both units have failed its a supply issue. supply of 12 or more volts from the battery
the 2 common denominators.
Does the stove light
? Does both burners when lit have good clean blue flames?
Does the first burner flame when lit dip down to a smaller flame when you light
the second burner?
Any fluctuations in the propane
questions means you may need to resolve propane
The second issue is battery
supply voltage. Check the battery voltage. check the connections at the battery. If you are using the standard trailer wiring code for the battery connection you will have white and black battery wires. Black wires go to the + terminal and white goes to the Negative post. If someone crosses this connection even for a brief moment it will usually take out a 12 volt fuse in the Black line somewhere between the battery and the converter. There may be multiple fuses in that main line. If you absolutely have 12 volts then the common denominator between the Fridge
and the heater will be a failed ground wire at the battery or where the main line goes to ground. chasing fail grounds sucks.
One thing you can try is hooking up your tug to the trailer and plug in to the 7 pin socket between the ball and the 7 pin you should have close to 13 or more volts going to the trailer. Now while hooked up to the tug and running try to light the heater you should fire up like normal if its a voltage issue. If the heater fires up then try the fridge on propane.
After this you should know where the failure lies. At this point you haven't spent any money.
If I was a betting man it's the power on switch for the converter didn't allow battery charging. The battery was probably disconnected over the winter and battery hook-up was crossed up taking out one or more fuses in the main line not allowing the battery to charge while driving. With active smoke detectors and propane sensors if the battery was not disconnected or maintained by the converter on 120 volts over the winter the detectors would have murdered the battery enough so to permanently kill it. If battery was disconnected could have easily been hooked up backwards even for the briefest of moments.