UHaul Converter - Peering Inside - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-14-2013, 05:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
I'm assuming you still have the 110 volt cord that pulls out the door on the left side.

No, when you are not plugged in, all you have is 12 volts (or so) off the battery (when you install it).

I think you've got it right. You could put contained ice in the refrigerator and use it as an ice box

By the way, I decided to leap into the 21st century and bought a smart charger, which I'll replace the above dissected box with.

Inteli Power 45 Amp Converter Charge Wizard RV PD9245C Progressive Dynamics | eBay
Thanks. That's what I thought. Any idea how many amps the stock converter pulls? I'm trying to figure out why the last time I was camping the breaker was tripping based on what I had plugged in/running. I probably need to turn everything on and get my multimeter out.

I'm thinking of putting in a kill switch for the battery charging for now. One of the manuals references a master switch near the battery meter. Mine doesn't have one. I'd like to put a kill switch there. I'm not sure if the master switch the manual refers to just kills drain on the battery or also kills the charging of the battery (since they appear to be separate circuits)? Did yours have one of these master switches?

I also want to replace the unused ash trays with 12v outlets for charging phones, etc. I'd like to replace the converter at some point but I need to buy a battery first. (Also, need to order the weatherstripping to do my side window. Have to keep my prioritized list!)
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:57 PM   #16
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Purchase some drinking water in drinkable sized plastic bottles, freeze them in your home fridge freezer and put them in the camper Ice-A-boxa (Italian for fridge) This way you keep the fridge cool and have drinkable water at the same time/

B 4 you do that, plug in the camper at home and turn on the fridge so it is already cold when you introduce the frozen water bottles.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:01 PM   #17
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Thanks. That's what I thought. Any idea how many amps the stock converter pulls? I'm trying to figure out why the last time I was camping the breaker was tripping based on what I had plugged in/running. I probably need to turn everything on and get my multimeter out.
Sorry, I've never measured the draw of the converter alone, but it should be no where near tripping the 15 amp breaker. I'd more likely expect an air conditioner or a heater to trip the breaker.

Quote:
I'm thinking of putting in a kill switch for the battery charging for now. One of the manuals references a master switch near the battery meter. Mine doesn't have one. I'd like to put a kill switch there. I'm not sure if the master switch the manual refers to just kills drain on the battery or also kills the charging of the battery (since they appear to be separate circuits)? Did yours have one of these master switches?
I installed a master cutoff switch right at the positive terminal of the battery. I also installed a small toggle switch between the two left terminals in the converter to manually control the battery charging.

Quote:
I also want to replace the unused ash trays with 12v outlets for charging phones, etc. I'd like to replace the converter at some point but I need to buy a battery first. (Also, need to order the weatherstripping to do my side window. Have to keep my prioritized list!)
I pulled the ash trays and mounted a cigarette lighter type power point in the recessed pocket for phones, etc.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:24 PM   #18
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I believe I have the cut sheet for the Converter/batterychargers and that they were made by Newmark. if so it indicates that all RA(ones that charge a battery and convert 120 to 12V) series units pull either 3.3A for a 20A unit , 4.6A for a 30 and 6.2A for the 40 amp unit. I believe the 20A unit was furnished based on the picture of Tom's transformer. Can't check as I sold mine and went to a Progressive Dynamics unit which I believe is way better and way lighter.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:12 PM   #19
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I think what is happening with Sean is that he is overloading the original 110 breaker with what he is using. Ours had a 15 amp breaker that was just a little push pin on the 110 outlet that was on the end of the overhead cabinet. It didn't take much load to trip it. I scrapped the original converter and installed a PD 4045 converter, rewired everything 110 and 12 volt, and am very happy with the results. I also installed a master disconnect on the battery with the lever mounted on the face of the bed support just ahead of the battery box.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:28 PM   #20
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You're right Bob, that's what's happening. I need to figure out how much the fridge is drawing. and my wife did have a coffee maker plugged in running too as I recall. and maybe something else.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:31 PM   #21
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You're right Bob, that's what's happening. I need to figure out how much the fridge is drawing. and my wife did have a coffee maker plugged in running too as I recall. and maybe something else.
Coffee maker would do it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:04 PM   #22
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I pulled the ash trays and mounted a cigarette lighter type power point in the recessed pocket for phones, etc.
Tom,

Where on the fuse panel did you tie your 12v outlets? or did you run a separate fused drop for them?
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:47 PM   #23
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Sean, you could add an inline fuse holder right off the battery if there aren't enough extra fuses in the original fuse panel. Mine is gone so I don't remember just how it was wired. Depends on what you want to run off 12 volts, we have 6 interior lights and one outside light, plus a 12 volt power plug which we have used for a 12 volt blanket.When I installed the new Progressive Dynamics power converter, it has 12 fused circuits for 12 volt power, plus a main 110 breaker and space for two other breakers. My opinion it's a great update to the trailer, well worth the money and time. It charges the battery too.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:14 PM   #24
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Pam, what I said (in Male Martian), was that I'm too cheap to install a modern converter.
LOL ! got it ...what I don't get is the whole REST of the stuff.
My camper has the original orange box converter (inverter?) that charges my 5year old walmart battery (that the guy put in when he sold me the camper)... I plug it in a few times in the winter to charge. BUT I also don't camp off the grid, I just use the battery for lights every so often.

I also had my camper place put in new wiring and a 30 amp circuit panel so I wouldn't worry about overloading anything.

I know, I know, you guys are all are cringing right now.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:14 AM   #25
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Tom,

Where on the fuse panel did you tie your 12v outlets? or did you run a separate fused drop for them?
I ended up making a small secondary panel to hold an ammeter and some additional fuses. The suggestion to just add an additional inline fuse is a good one. Just hook it up to the "battery" terminal on the converter.

Amazon.com: In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG: Automotive
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:18 AM   #26
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LOL ! got it ...what I don't get is the whole REST of the stuff.
My camper has the original orange box converter (inverter?) that charges my 5year old walmart battery (that the guy put in when he sold me the camper)... I plug it in a few times in the winter to charge. BUT I also don't camp off the grid, I just use the battery for lights every so often.

I also had my camper place put in new wiring and a 30 amp circuit panel so I wouldn't worry about overloading anything.

I know, I know, you guys are all are cringing right now.
That's cool. Just don't leave it plugged in for days and days or it will overcharge the battery. You should also check the water level in your battery occasionally, if it has the pop off caps. Use only distilled water to top it off.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:05 AM   #27
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You could also buy a small fuse panel and wire it to the battery, I was going to go that route before I bought the new converter. I think I found some fuse panels at NAPA auto parts.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:53 AM   #28
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You could also buy a small fuse panel and wire it to the battery, I was going to go that route before I bought the new converter. I think I found some fuse panels at NAPA auto parts.
Sources.

12 Volt ATC Fuse Panel 12 Circuits 3 Positive Battery Lugs Victory 30507039 | eBay


NAPA AUTO PARTS | PART DETAILS


http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H8496009...rds=fuse+block
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