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Old 04-23-2011, 01:31 PM   #21
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Pete, You overheard a conversation between a moron and another customer. No body is admonishing you and you should be mature enough to understand that.

Dexter clearly showed how their axle works when greased.
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Old 04-23-2011, 02:40 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Look here:
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Verdict on EZ Lube / Ultra Lube Axles from Dexter and AL-KO?

My worry is having grease to come out the back and getting on the brakes. I just do a couple of squirts on each hub each trip.
To be sure to avoid breaching the inboard seal, it may be best to lift the axle high enough to clear the tire from the ground the slowly spin it as you apply the grease, that should also help to distribute the new grease more completely. I generally do so, although it may not be necessary.
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:49 PM   #23
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Floyd is absolutely right on. The Dexter manual tells you to rotate the wheel while inserting the grease.
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:02 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by skephart View Post
Thanks to everyone. It looks like I don't need to worry about an annual inspection. I will be putting on about 10,000 miles a year on the Scamp so I was not sure how often I should inspect the bearings. Maybe every other year.

More importantly adjust the brakes annually or sooner. They don't have automatic adjusters.
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:12 PM   #25
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OK, back to the E-Z lube.

We had just finished "topping off the grease" with a few pumps per side until the old grease started coming out. Lowered the trailer. Then I read the Dexter Service Manual.

"1. Remove the rubber plug from the end of the grease cap.

2. Place a standard grease gun onto the grease fitting located in the end of the spindle. Make sure the grease gun nozzle is fully engaged on the fitting.

3. Pump grease into the fitting. The old displaced grease will begin to flow back out the cap around the grease gun nozzle.

4. When the new clean grease is observed, remove the grease gun, wipe off any excess, and replace the rubber plug in the cap.

5. Rotate hub or drumb while adding grease."

Put the trailer up again and repeated #4. Put an old maragine tub
below for the old black grease to fall into. Used some chopsticks to help it along. Then when we saw the nice pink Mystic JT-6 Hi Temp Grease we use start to show up we stopped.

My goodness. We used nearly a whole tube of Mystic.

Went to town to look for new rubber plugs (85-1) for spares. Both auto shops were out of stock.

It was a beautiful day to be out raising and lowering the trailer. The ice is almost out of the lake.

Nancy
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:10 PM   #26
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OK, back to the E-Z lube.

when we saw the nice pink Mystic JT-6 Hi Temp Grease we use start to show up we stopped.

Nancy
Why does grease come in so many colors? I've seen red, yellow, brown, and I think there are more. Do they mean anything or just happen to be what each manufacturer thinks looks good?
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:12 PM   #27
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They mean something, just like everything else you need to read the label.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:12 AM   #28
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I've used two greases, both recommended by the Dexter manual for my bearings, and both were high-temp, lithium complex, NLGI grade two, and one was red and one was yellow. Maybe one had different additives or something else not mentioned on the label? But through reading the label there was absolutely no difference.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:47 PM   #29
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I bought our trailer used, so to be safe I plan to pull the drums and check both the bearings and the brakes.
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:02 PM   #30
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Yes, you should check those out.
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:47 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by skephart View Post
I have a question regarding my new 2010 Scamp. I picked it up at the factory in October and winterized in after our Thanksgiving trip to Califronia and managed to put just under 5,000 miles on it. It has the Ultralube on the axle for greasing the wheel bearings. The axle manual says to lube every 6,000 miles or 6 months and the says the hubs and components should be disassembled yearly and inspected. Does anyone have a minimum of miles before it should be disassembled.
Hi. I have a 2009 13' Scamp, and after the first year and 5-7000 miles, I phoned Scamp to ask for information re: the bearings because I was "on the road" at the time. They said to just use a grease gun now, but that the NEXT year, I should get the wheels removed and the bearings repacked. So what Scamp advised was only half as often as what the "manual" says. I did that, and everything is running great. Possibly, everything would have been running great with only another shot with the grease gun, but why take the chance on a new trailer? (or an older one, for that matter!) Hope that helps. Richard
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:42 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Richard Davis View Post
Hi. I have a 2009 13' Scamp, and after the first year and 5-7000 miles, I phoned Scamp to ask for information re: the bearings because I was "on the road" at the time. They said to just use a grease gun now, but that the NEXT year, I should get the wheels removed and the bearings repacked. So what Scamp advised was only half as often as what the "manual" says. I did that, and everything is running great. Possibly, everything would have been running great with only another shot with the grease gun, but why take the chance on a new trailer? (or an older one, for that matter!) Hope that helps. Richard
Richard

Thanks for the help. I any now planning on pulling the wheels and checking the bearings when I winterize the trailer in the fall. At that time I will have on the high side of 10,000 miles on the trailer.
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