want to reseal all of our windows - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-08-2016, 02:32 PM   #15
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Thanks Jon. I'll check it out tonight. Didn't know that it was basically all the same. I thought there might be special considerations for FG hull and Hehr windows.

I also remember Donna teaching me something about using weed wacker line to clean out outer silicone bead scamp puts on at factory. Maybe that's just to reseal outer window area from elements when silicone fails. I don't remember if that was part of a reseal, you know total lift out of windows. Confused a bit.

My trailers a 12 and already silicone bead on outside is failing (peeling away). I've heard mention of sika flex, not sure if that's what you're supposed to use after you get old silicone off.


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Old 03-08-2016, 03:03 PM   #16
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I think Donna was referring to using weed wacker line to clean out the weep holes in the window frame.
Pic is inside weep hole.
Attached Thumbnails
weep hole.jpg  
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:19 PM   #17
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Yes, weed wacker to clear the weep holes. Wendy, when you pull the windows and rebed using Butyl, you really don't need anything around the perimeter. I think some manufacturers put caulk around the outer edge of a window just to make customers happy because they think it's needed. It's not. My 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe came from the factory without that extra caulk and has remained leak free. I consider that caulk to be a bandaid. YMMV.
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trilliumdon View Post
If you're going that far I strongly suggest you change the wood that holds the screws. I pulled the framing wood from my 13 trillium when it leaked and it was saturated with water. If you have the windows out there's no better time.
There is no wood in my windows or framing. Thanx
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:29 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Uplander View Post
Since I seem to see a window leak/seal topic just about every month on this board I must ask "do all the fiberglass travel trailers have window problems or is this problem limited to certain brand or brands ?"
Uplander: our Scamp is a 1991 and most of the window sealant has aged to a fine texture and is no longer doing it's job. We're in the process of renovating most of this unit without a total frame off and we don't want to damage any of our work or add to the aging process so it seems reasonable to reseal the windows just to prevent water, mold and mildew. I can't say if this is a widespread problem but we just want to eliminate any issues.
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:31 AM   #20
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That weed wacker line is like dental floss for window weep holes.
I prefer the "awning" or "jaliousie" style windows over the sliding windows.
It seems the weep holes are always clogged.
The awning style windows can remain open in the rain without water entering the travel trailer's interior.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:47 PM   #21
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Thanks Donna. I couldn't exactly remember what you had taught me about weed wacker line. A while back and I was an even newer newb.

I watched a vid on taking out windows - reinstalling with the butyl. But how the bleep do you get scamps factory silicone off the shell? Plastic putty knife and some silicone removal product?


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Old 03-09-2016, 06:13 PM   #22
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Wendy Lee. I didn't have any factory silicone on my windows but I did redo my belly band. I used a section of PVC as a scraper.
Scamp exterior caulking
look at post 17




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Old 03-09-2016, 06:57 PM   #23
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Hi Ken. Thanks. I just looked at your gizmo. If you start making them for sale I'll buy it!😊. What did you use to bevel/cut the end of the PVC that way? Is it 3/4 " pipe?


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Old 03-09-2016, 07:00 PM   #24
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I've got factory silicone smeared around all windows. It's clear. I think when I do butyl seal it's gonna take your scraper AND some type of silicone chemical remover. It's a nightmare. 😬


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Old 03-09-2016, 07:45 PM   #25
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I cut it with a miter saw.


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Old 07-26-2016, 10:00 AM   #26
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Hi Trilliumdon - I viewed your trailer and you believe it is a '75. I am curious about mine - it is registered with the DMV as a 1978, but my serial number is earlier than yours - so am wondering if mine is older than I believe.

Would appreciate feedback from one and all.

Thanks

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Old 07-26-2016, 11:12 AM   #27
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silicone caulk remover

Motsenbockers 16 oz. Silicone Latex Caulk and Foam Sealant Remover-411-16 - The Home Depot

I purchased some Mostenockers caulk remover this week to help remove the silicone caulking a PO had spread all around the window perimeter in a really thick application. One coat on the edges before you start scraping will loosen the edge so you can easily get a scraper under it. Then once you remove the bulk of the stuff you spray more of it on and it loosens that last surface residue that is otherwise almost impossible to take off. Good product, well worth the dollars spent. Saves a lot of labor time. It is a water based product that is easy to wash off. But of course read the label before you buy it to see if it is right for your application.

I make my own scrapers out of approx 1 inch wide strips of thick Polycarbonate. Use a sanding disk to bevel both ends of the strip into a chisel shape. It can be resharpened over and over as needed by touching it up on piece of sand paper or with a power sanding disc. That is what they use at Boeing in the factory for scraping sealant off when they need to remove it. They are sturdy, last a very long time (years) and don't cost a lot to make. You can cut Polycarbonate on a table saw. My local plastics supplier gives me their scraps for free. So this is a no cost tool other than some labor.

You can also get something similar made for scraping ice off the car window and resharpen those on sand paper as needed. But they are a bit too wide for the window caulk removal job. But you know how it goes, use what you have if that is all that you have.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:35 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
But you know how it goes, use what you have if that is all that you have.
I've been known to use two thumbnails and a heavy-duty plastic knife! Never, ever anything metal. Don't want to score the gelcoat.
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