want to reseal all of our windows - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-26-2016, 12:03 PM   #29
Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
Posts: 1,037
My 1986 Scamp uses the square drive Robertson screws in black color to match the frames. The screws are steel screwed into aluminium. There is some miss match of metal issues when they get old. The steel rusts and tries to lock on to the aluminium. It takes far more torque to remove than when they were installed.

I rebedded the windows with butyl tape since the factory foam gasket is crap. The screws were available at my local RV repair they had them in their back shop in bulk box. ( I just had to bring a sample and ask) I could not find them retail anywhere in black. I was able to remove the screws but the stuck ones really distorted the square drive of the heads which meant if I put them back in, there was no way I would be able to remove them later. It is wise to replace them all or suffer the repercussion later. Make sure your square drive tool fits the square tightly and use allot of inward force to keep it in the screw.

Before you remove the window put some masking tape around the outer window frame. After you remove the window and put butyl tape on the frame when you screw it all back together the butyl tape will squeeze out. Wail until morning when cool or cold outside and trim the butyl tape close to the frame. Then peel up the tape and you won't have a sticky mess to clean up.

You may have to double up on the butyl tape in the corners of the window frames to match the curve of the trailer. You may have to double up on the butyl tape on the whole frame due to the compressed bubble pack and headliner on the inside and the ring wont clamp down all the way. This was an issue on mine with the small window over the stove.

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Old 08-12-2016, 09:29 AM   #30
Senior Member
Name: Patrick
Trailer: R-Vision Trail Lite
New York
Posts: 576
Originally Posted by JRTrillium View Post
Hi Trilliumdon - I viewed your trailer and you believe it is a '75. I am curious about mine - it is registered with the DMV as a 1978, but my serial number is earlier than yours - so am wondering if mine is older than I believe.

Would appreciate feedback from one and all.


My current travel trailer is a 2001 but the New York DMV recorded it as a 2011 on my title. I did not notice their error for several years and decided to just let it stay as indicated. If I ever sell it I will let any buyer know it is in fact a 2001 manufacture. The serial number on the title is correct...being that old it will not have much value when and if I ever sell it.

Recient reports I read on the RVTravel.com website seem to indicate that most new travel,trailers have many many quality problems. Considering the industry's lack of quality I would not recommend buying anything new until this current run of poor low quality units are sold. Industry watchers are not pleased with the manufacturer's lack of concern about the junk they currently producing. The problem is wide spread....current high demand is creating the problem as production is rushed...read the RVTravel.com weekly website reports to get an idea about the serious nature of the production quality problems...subject was covered in great detail over the last two or three weekly industry reports. Hundreds of RV purchaser's responded with reports of their problems with new units.
Worth reading !

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Old 08-12-2016, 09:37 AM   #31
Senior Member
Name: K C
Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trails West CampMite Campster
Posts: 775
The clamp ring on my Campster windows did not want to have the edges at the split in the clamp ring come back together tightly. I used a bar clamp pressing against the top and bottom of that clamp ring framing piece just beyond where the radius starts but where the frame is still straight to bring those edges together and then installed the screws on that side of the clamp ring. After the screws were in I took the bar clamp off. Problem solved

My window's height is less than the opening width of a 24" bar clamp. Bar clamps are not all that expensive to purchase and are quite handy to have in a home workshop. Or if you have a neighbor who does woodworking you might be able to borrow one for the task.

As to the screw issue you can always wax the screw threads before installing them. My clamp ring screws were zinc phosphate coated and there were no rust problems or binding problems from them even after 45 years of being in a leaky trailer that seems to have spent many years as a garden shed. The zinc phosphate coated screws have a dull grey appearance.

Stainless steel screws can develop an issue where the threads bond to the aluminum over time which makes them difficult to remove and they can also develop rust underneath the heads if moisture gets under there. One preventative choice if using stainless screws is to put an anti-seize compound on the threads and under the head before you install the screws into the clamp ring. Or you can wax the threads of the screws.

But for the long term the zinc phosphate coated screws are likely the best choice. Don't worry about matchy, matchy, interiors with everything being designer perfect. Concern yourself with the best choice for structural integrity and longevity.

You can always paint screw heads yourself. It is easy to do. Soak the screws in a jar of acetone to remove any oils from manufacturing or fingers, let dry. Wear gloves to keep your finger's oil off the screws after cleaning and in the next step. That step is to stick them into a piece of foam, leaving the head above the surface of the foam rather than touching it or you can screw them into a piece of corrogated cardboard if you don't have any foam around. The point is to secure the screws in an upright position so they don't move and have them far enough apart that the paint will easily coat the sides of the head as well as the top. Don't worry about coating under the head, some spray will likely get slightly underneath which is OK.

Use a couple of light coats of automotive spray paint. One coat of primer first. You can buy black primer so that you only need one coat of paint. Do not use heavy coats of paint or you will fill up the slots in the screw heads. Let the paint cure a couple of days before installing them. A week is even better, paint takes that long to fully harden. Be sure you use a nice new screwdriver tip so that it gets a secure grip and does not mess up your paint job.

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