want to reseal all of our windows

[TheWanderers]

Is there anything special about the screws holding the window casing in the Scamp wall? Obviously size is important here, but I would like to replace the old screws with new ones that have clean heads and can be properly torqued.

[Eddie Longest]

If you are resealing your windows you can get black butyl tape. Usually it is not on display but in RV parts stores but they usually have it in the back room. Besides being black it is wider to fit your window flange. I usually just paint the screw heads and reuse, if needed I get screws from the local hardware store. If you find screws that have stripped out the screw slot just move to either side and drill a new hole in the mounting ring only. Once you get the mounting ring off you will see how the ring mounts to the window.
Eddie

[TheWanderers]

My reason for resealing is that almost every one leaks. During this process we will be able to completely clean out all of the drain holes as well as the frames. The screws are old, probably original from 1991, with pan heads with square holes that strip out easily so I'd like to replace with something that will torque down more readily to enable a better seal between the window frame and ring. We have found the butyl tape and are ready to work through one window at a time. My plan is to pull one screw and take it to Lowe's to find the replacements if no one has any specific recommendations regarding requirements.


We're also looking for a screen or a source to buy a replacement for one of the dinette windows; any recommendations for screens?

[LyleB]

Have you checked with your local hardware store, one that cuts glass?

Here in my small town Hardware they will make screens for many windows, they have several styles of frame material to fabricate the frame from, probably have something that will work in your window.

[trilliumdon]

If you're going that far I strongly suggest you change the wood that holds the screws. I pulled the framing wood from my 13 trillium when it leaked and it was saturated with water. If you have the windows out there's no better time.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by TheWanderers

The screws are old, probably original from 1991, with pan heads with square holes that strip out easily so I'd like to replace with something that will torque down more readily to enable a better seal between the window frame and ring.

The square drive Robertson #2 drive IS the most common higher torque fastener screw on the market except for the star-drive head. You must not have the correct bit size; I routinely fasten square drive 4-8 inch long #10 and #12 screws in construction.

Almost every trailer I've seen in the last few years uses them.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by trilliumdon

If you're going that far I strongly suggest you change the wood that holds the screws. I pulled the framing wood from my 13 trillium when it leaked and it was saturated with water. If you have the windows out there's no better time.

Does Scamp use wood around the window frames?

[kdhanso]

Right Jon. No wood on Scamp window frames.

I resealed mine with butyl a couple years ago. I removed and cleaned off the old dried up foam seals before placing the butyl on the window edge. Reused my original Phillips head screws as there was nothing wrong with them. They were removed and reinstalled with careful use of my cordless impact driver. I didn't have any screws strip out. It's nice to have a helper on hand outside holding the window while you drive the first couple screws back in place.


Ken

[Uplander]

Since I seem to see a window leak/seal topic just about every month on this board I must ask "do all the fiberglass travel trailers have window problems or is this problem limited to certain brand or brands ?"

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Uplander

Since I seem to see a window leak/seal topic just about every month on this board I must ask "do all the fiberglass travel trailers have window problems or is this problem limited to certain brand or brands ?"

I think the reason you see so many posts on window leaks in fiberglass trailers is that they last long enough to develop leaks in those areas.
The stick-build begin to fall apart, leaving the dealership.

[kdhanso]

Yep. I resealed my windows when I noticed the first leak which is when my trailer was around 16 years old. Most factory seals were still ok but I decided to redo them all at once.


Ken

[CampyTime]

Reading this thread with great interest. All of you smart guys know how to take a window out, where butyl goes etc. If I ever need to do so on my scamp 13, does anybody know of a step by step tutorial with pics that can help me with both words and visuals? I see a screw in ring around my windows. Other than popping out those screws, no idea what happens next.

Again, many posts on this forum are written by much more handy people than I. I usually have to learn by trial mistake trial mistake.

Cheers!

Wendy


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Jon in AZ]

Wendy, try searching "reseal RV window" on YouTube. I found several that were very helpful. For me, I have to see it happen. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video is worth ten thousand!

[Uplander]

Glenn, I am sure your trailer is the best on this planet. Mine must be second best...it is a "sticky"... It is 16 years young...to is still like new...it has followed us (and the previous owner) around the country for many miles over roads both good and bad....no leaks...no major system failures.

My policy in life is "Never say never" and take every product and individual at face value...no two are the same...both stick built trailers and fiberglass trailers have problems unique to their type...none are perfect.

I came to this and several other boards in search of knowledge.
This board is a good source. There are many knowledgeable folks willing to help.
I learn something new every day. Thanks to all for sharing.
I have yet another question that I will put in another post today. It is a general knowledge question about that magic electric converter system all trailer have.

Happy Camping

[CampyTime]

Thanks Jon. I'll check it out tonight. Didn't know that it was basically all the same. I thought there might be special considerations for FG hull and Hehr windows.

I also remember Donna teaching me something about using weed wacker line to clean out outer silicone bead scamp puts on at factory. Maybe that's just to reseal outer window area from elements when silicone fails. I don't remember if that was part of a reseal, you know total lift out of windows. Confused a bit.

My trailers a 12 and already silicone bead on outside is failing (peeling away). I've heard mention of sika flex, not sure if that's what you're supposed to use after you get old silicone off.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Glenn Baglo]

I think Donna was referring to using weed wacker line to clean out the weep holes in the window frame.
Pic is inside weep hole.

[Donna D.]

Yes, weed wacker to clear the weep holes. Wendy, when you pull the windows and rebed using Butyl, you really don't need anything around the perimeter. I think some manufacturers put caulk around the outer edge of a window just to make customers happy because they think it's needed. It's not. My 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe came from the factory without that extra caulk and has remained leak free. I consider that caulk to be a bandaid. YMMV.

[TheWanderers]

Originally Posted by trilliumdon

If you're going that far I strongly suggest you change the wood that holds the screws. I pulled the framing wood from my 13 trillium when it leaked and it was saturated with water. If you have the windows out there's no better time.

There is no wood in my windows or framing. Thanx

[TheWanderers]

Originally Posted by Uplander

Since I seem to see a window leak/seal topic just about every month on this board I must ask "do all the fiberglass travel trailers have window problems or is this problem limited to certain brand or brands ?"

Uplander: our Scamp is a 1991 and most of the window sealant has aged to a fine texture and is no longer doing it's job. We're in the process of renovating most of this unit without a total frame off and we don't want to damage any of our work or add to the aging process so it seems reasonable to reseal the windows just to prevent water, mold and mildew. I can't say if this is a widespread problem but we just want to eliminate any issues.

[Uplander]

That weed wacker line is like dental floss for window weep holes.
I prefer the "awning" or "jaliousie" style windows over the sliding windows.
It seems the weep holes are always clogged.
The awning style windows can remain open in the rain without water entering the travel trailer's interior.