water pump, conundrum... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-01-2010, 11:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
I don't believe I've ever seen a 13' trailer that fed both the City Water and
the water pump thru the same cold water faucet. I usually see 2 separate faucets, or many people install a regular hot-and-cold faucet set, and they connect the "City Water" to the Cold side and the water pump to the Hot side. I could be wrong...
You're probably right, but mine so far is a complete modification. I started with only the hand pump and tank. And then I installed a cold water tap that is connected to the city water inlet. But what I want to do is install a valve that will let me manually switch between city water and pumped tank water. This mod is going to even go further than this, but for now I'm hung up on the pump
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:47 PM   #16
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A simple switch to the power supply to the pump in the line would do what you want.
You could then use a faucet with a hot and a cold valve....
use one side for shore water and the other for onboard water, either would come out the same spigot.
[or two single faucets]
Thanks Frederick..... great minds .... type at the same time![LOL]
My '04 uses the same faucet for both and has hot and cold , same for the shower.
I think I'm getting what your saying, but I would then have to manually turn on the switch each time I wanted water correct? I generally wouldn't have an issue with that, but I'd rather have on demand because I'm going to install an outside spigot as well to run to my shower tent, which will utilize the eccotemp portable hot water heater for showers etc. I will also have to settle the tank size issue with this, but anyway you get the idea. As for hot water inside the camper, I'm going to battle that one later. For now, cold water inside the camper, and hot shower outside is my goal.

Just as a side bar, I'll install a valve to switch over back and forth from tank to city water, whenever its available, and it'll still feed both the cold water tap, and the outside spigot.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:40 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by GordM View Post
what I want to do is install a valve that will let me manually switch between city water and pumped tank water. This mod is going to even go further than this, but for now I'm hung up on the pump
Gord,
the shureflo pumps are positive displacement pumps, which means that when they are not running they won't let water pass through them, like a valve. if you had a switch that cut power to the pump you could connect to city water on the same plumbing and as long as the pump wasn't between your outside connection and the tap, water would flow properly at the faucet. in this config. you would have to screw on your exterior city water cap tightly or else water might leak there when the 12v pump is being used. or you could install a one way valve just inside the inlet. (Actually, i think my city water inlet may have a one valve as part of its design)

keep us posted,

Kevin
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:58 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by GordM View Post
I think I'm getting what your saying, but I would then have to manually turn on the switch each time I wanted water correct? I generally wouldn't have an issue with that, but I'd rather have on demand because I'm going to install an outside spigot as well to run to my shower tent, which will utilize the eccotemp portable hot water heater for showers etc. I will also have to settle the tank size issue with this, but anyway you get the idea. As for hot water inside the camper, I'm going to battle that one later. For now, cold water inside the camper, and hot shower outside is my goal.

Just as a side bar, I'll install a valve to switch over back and forth from tank to city water, whenever its available, and it'll still feed both the cold water tap, and the outside spigot.
A simple check valve in the line from the pump is all you really need for change over, since your shorewater inlet is already a check valve.
bad news though... the shurflow pump is adequate for running a shower, but that little pump may only be good enough for a sink. Your shower may be weak. check for GPM before buying.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:59 AM   #19
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Gord,
the shureflo pumps are positive displacement pumps, which means that when they are not running they won't let water pass through them, like a valve. if you had a switch that cut power to the pump you could connect to city water on the same plumbing and as long as the pump wasn't between your outside connection and the tap, water would flow properly at the faucet. in this config. you would have to screw on your exterior city water cap tightly or else water might leak there when the 12v pump is being used. or you could install a one way valve just inside the inlet. (Actually, i think my city water inlet may have a one valve as part of its design)

keep us posted,

Kevin
Yes I thought about that, but I think I'll just do a A-B valve (if that's what its called). I could put a plug on the inlet to prevent the water from coming out when using the pump, but I think this will be easier in the long run. But my next conundrum is going to be the tank size I have. I'm not sure how big it is in litres or gallons, but I'm pretty sure it's not even big enough for a single shower. Use at the sink will be okay, but the shower will drain it every time I'm sure.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:02 AM   #20
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A simple check valve in the line from the pump is all you really need for change over, since your shorewater inlet is already a check valve.
bad news though... the shurflow pump is adequate for running a shower, but that little pump may only be good enough for a sink. Your shower may be weak. check for GPM before buying.
Yep, I think I'll have to get the 3.3 GPM AC pump. I don't think my inlet has a check valve actually? Its just a cheapish plastic one, and water just passes straight through it.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:08 AM   #21
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I'm thinking of using something like this.

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Old 08-02-2010, 01:51 PM   #22
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Yes I thought about that, but I think I'll just do a A-B valve (if that's what its called). I could put a plug on the inlet to prevent the water from coming out when using the pump, but I think this will be easier in the long run. But my next conundrum is going to be the tank size I have. I'm not sure how big it is in litres or gallons, but I'm pretty sure it's not even big enough for a single shower. Use at the sink will be okay, but the shower will drain it every time I'm sure.
if you have a stock inlet, it already has a check valve built in, so no need to plug it.
with a check valve in th pump line, the system would be completely automatic.
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:22 PM   #23
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if you have a stock inlet, it already has a check valve built in, so no need to plug it.
with a check valve in th pump line, the system would be completely automatic.
Mine unfortunately is an after market. I just checked and sure enough, no check valve. I guess I could put in check valves to make it automatic. Something to think about.
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:05 PM   #24
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Put in a small battery ( lawn mower/motorcycle) and a cheap charger. Plumb the water with a car windshield washer pump. You don't need a LOT of water at a time.
Get the pump at a junk yard, not much money.
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:12 PM   #25
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I'm still on the fence over AC or DC pump. Really I'm on the fence for DC option in my camper really. It would be nice to have that back up in case I'm not in a campground, like a walmart or a rest stop. Although that is unlikely. Plus I like to tinker, so part of me wants to do it as a challenge. All my other AC items can run off the inverter (not the air conditioner as that would drain my batteries WAY too fast). But the small fridge and lights, and in this case the pump. But I'm not sure if I am going to do the 12 volts yet, and I can always run the AC pump on the inverter too. Something to think about I guess.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:07 PM   #26
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Hi Gord,

I'm using this flojet pump which only pulls 3.5 amps. I'm thinking you could use your 5 amp transformer with it for now and still have the option of adding a full 12 volt system later. It only pumps 1.1 gallons per minute but I actually consider that a plus given the small holding tank sizes on our Bolers.

Russ
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:24 PM   #27
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Hi Gord,

I'm using this flojet pump which only pulls 3.5 amps. I'm thinking you could use your 5 amp transformer with it for now and still have the option of adding a full 12 volt system later. It only pumps 1.1 gallons per minute but I actually consider that a plus given the small holding tank sizes on our Bolers.

Russ
Ah, Russ, that's perfect! That's the first pump I've seen that uses that low a voltage and low GPM that can run on my transformer. Even voltage spikes probably won't break the 5 amp barrier. And its a great price to boot! And I noticed that people are pairing it with the exact outdoor hot water shower unit I'm after. And your right, the slow flow will help with the small tank, which is a concern of mine too. Thanks Russ!

Edit: And its on demand, which is exactly what I want! Yay!
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:32 PM   #28
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Most the the Prov. Parks here in BC do not have elec or water hook up so a trailer with out 12v is pretty well out for camping in anything other than commerical sites here. I would go 12v.
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