water pump, conundrum...

[GordM]

I want to install an on demand water pump in my boler. But I have a conundrum. I can get 12v shurflo models, for like $80-$120 and 115v AC pumps for about $100 more than that. Here's my issue. We will be camping in predominantly camping sites with 115 volt access. Camping without AC power is going to be very rare. So I would get the 115v pump, but its lots more expensive. I'd get the 12v, but then I'd have to have a converter or a charger to keep my battery charged in order to use it. Other devices in the boler are all 115v power. So adding a 12v pump, is somewhat counter intuitive. There's even a chance that I might not even install a 12v battery, because off grid camping will be rare. So what might some of you recommend. I have a feeling, I'll just have to get the AC pump, seeing is how I'll probably spend at least that extra $100 on the converter, or charger and other accessories needed. I have DC power sources that top out at 5 amps, and the pump is 7, so that's out too. I thought about using a computer power supply to power the pump?? Anyway, any thoughts?

EDIT: Or..is there a smaller GPM pump that someone knows about that runs on AC power that might be cheaper. I'm only running a single cold water tap, so I don't need a large GPM flow.

[Perry J]

Personally, I would never buy a trailer that is all 110V. I passed on a beautiful 13' Scamp last year because the refer was 110.
Are you going to buy a larger trailer as your family grows? Probably!
In my opinion, you severely limit your resale with an all 110 trailer.
John

P.S. Does your littlest one have Mohawk? When my boys were little the 4 year old gave his little brother a rather raggedy Mohawk.

[GordM]

No, the little one doesn't have a Mohawk, at least not on purpose. He's blond, and his hair seems a little darker and thicker on the top of his head, thus making it look that way. Sometimes we comb it that way to add effect though!

On the AC issue, I'm putting in a Danby fridge in place of the ice box. If I resell the boler, I can always put the ice box back in. Plus, there are 12 volt lights. The only AC really is the fluorescent light above the sink, and a window air conditioner installed. I will eventually install a little TV and media player, which again is AC current. So at this stage, for me at least, installing a battery and converter JUST to use the pump and those two lights, seems ridiculous. If I decided to sell it, I could easily put a 12v system in and still run that pump off an inverter. And again, it would be up the buyer, they'll either get an ice box, or an AC fridge. I'm not going to put in a 3 way fridge. They can if they want to.

If I had a host of other 12 volt items, and a 12v system in place, then I would totally go for the 12v pump. But because my main electrical items (most important is the air conditioner if you ask me ), are AC current, well you see my conundrum.

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by GordM

Here's my issue. We will be camping in predominantly camping sites with 115 volt access. Camping without AC power is going to be very rare...I'm only running a single cold water tap, so I don't need a large GPM flow.

Here on the West Coast, the vast majority of campgrounds that have electricity at each campsite also have a "City Water" connection at each campsite, negating the need for a pump. The campgrounds that do not have electricity at each campsite do not have a "City Water" connection, either.

Your Avatar does not say where you are.

[GordM]

My avatar used to show where I was from. I wonder why it changed? Anyway, I fixed it and it shows again. It used to say what type of camper I had too, but that is also not there anymore. Bizarre, maybe they changed something here.

Anyway, as you can see now we are from Winnipeg. And we too also have RV parks with electrical and water so that we wouldn't need a pump. But, in the provincial parks, its hit and miss with electrical AND water at the same time. Many have full service too, or just electrical with water, or just electrical. But many don't have water. Almost all of them have at least electrical. Plus, I prefer to have a really nice wooded site, that's private and shaded, and those often don't have water, but do have electricity. So we'll sometimes have water, but sometimes not. Whereas, we'll pretty much always have electrical. Anyway, sounds like I'm rambling, but that's the reason for the pump.

[Kevin Poll]

just an idea,

what about buying the 12v pump and using an appropriate sized 110 to 12 v transformer to tie the pump into the existing system. the inexpensive wall plug kind. you could run additional 12 v wiring (capped) from the pump in anticipation of a future 12 v system in the trailer and in the mean time you'll have something that'll work when the trailer in plugged in.

something like this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15995

In our trillium I have a receptacle under the fridge next to the sink so i could easily plug a 110 to 12 v transformer there, I am not sure how the wiring is laid out on the boler.

Kevin

[floyd]

Originally Posted by GordM

I want to install an on demand water pump in my boler. But I have a conundrum. I can get 12v shurflo models, for like $80-$120 and 115v AC pumps for about $100 more than that. Here's my issue. We will be camping in predominantly camping sites with 115 volt access. Camping without AC power is going to be very rare. So I would get the 115v pump, but its lots more expensive. I'd get the 12v, but then I'd have to have a converter or a charger to keep my battery charged in order to use it. Other devices in the boler are all 115v power. So adding a 12v pump, is somewhat counter intuitive. There's even a chance that I might not even install a 12v battery, because off grid camping will be rare. So what might some of you recommend. I have a feeling, I'll just have to get the AC pump, seeing is how I'll probably spend at least that extra $100 on the converter, or charger and other accessories needed. I have DC power sources that top out at 5 amps, and the pump is 7, so that's out too. I thought about using a computer power supply to power the pump?? Anyway, any thoughts?

EDIT: Or..is there a smaller GPM pump that someone knows about that runs on AC power that might be cheaper. I'm only running a single cold water tap, so I don't need a large GPM flow.

look here....
Electric Faucet 100 Pump Combo - JCWhitney

be sure and scroll down on the page to see the $30 pump

[GordM]

Originally Posted by Kevin Poll

just an idea,

what about buying the 12v pump and using an appropriate sized 110 to 12 v transformer to tie the pump into the existing system. the inexpensive wall plug kind. you could run additional 12 v wiring (capped) from the pump in anticipation of a future 12 v system in the trailer and in the mean time you'll have something that'll work when the trailer in plugged in.

something like this:
DealExtreme: $15.30 12V 5A 60W AC Power Supply Unit with 5.5mm DC Plug for LCD Monitors Cord - EU Plug (110~240V)

In our trillium I have a receptacle under the fridge next to the sink so i could easily plug a 110 to 12 v transformer there, I am not sure how the wiring is laid out on the boler.

Kevin

I have something exactly like that. Its even 5 amp like that. But the pump I'm looking at draws 7 amps when full PSI. I could keep the PSI low with a regulator maybe, and keep the amps down, but that isn't ideal either, because then I only have low pressure. Which isn't the end of the world, maybe something to think about.

[GordM]

Originally Posted by floyd

look here....
Electric Faucet 100 Pump Combo - JCWhitney

be sure and scroll down on the page to see the $30 pump

I like that idea, but it looks like you have to use an electric faucet with it. I already have my regular cold water faucet installed, which is attached to a city water inlet on the camper. But I want to get a valve I can change over to the pump when I don't have city water. With that pump, I'll have to change over my faucet too. But its a really good deal, for someone that is using a hand pump, that's for sure!

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by floyd

look here....
Electric Faucet 100 Pump Combo - JCWhitney

be sure and scroll down on the page to see the $30 pump

I think Floyd may have found a winner!
Combine the following 2 items:

12-VOLT ELECTRIC WATER PUMP - JCWhitney

Enercell 12V/1500mA AC Adapter : AC Adapters | RadioShack.com

[GordM]

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

I think Floyd may have found a winner!
Combine the following 2 items:

12-VOLT ELECTRIC WATER PUMP - JCWhitney

Enercell 12V/1500mA AC Adapter : AC Adapters | RadioShack.com

Its too bad you need an electric faucet with it though. I already have a regular cold water faucet installed, which I'd rather not change. But again, for anyone looking to replace the hand pump system, this is a sure bet and its cheap!

So I suppose it looks like I'm going to have to go with the AC pump.

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by GordM

Its too bad you need an electric faucet with it though. I already have a regular cold water faucet installed, which I'd rather not change.

I don't believe I've ever seen a 13' trailer that fed both the City Water and
the water pump thru the same cold water faucet. I usually see 2 separate faucets, or many people install a regular hot-and-cold faucet set, and they connect the "City Water" to the Cold side and the water pump to the Hot side. I could be wrong...

[floyd]

Originally Posted by GordM

I like that idea, but it looks like you have to use an electric faucet with it. I already have my regular cold water faucet installed, which is attached to a city water inlet on the camper. But I want to get a valve I can change over to the pump when I don't have city water. With that pump, I'll have to change over my faucet too. But its a really good deal, for someone that is using a hand pump, that's for sure!

A simple switch to the power supply to the pump in the line would do what you want.
You could then use a faucet with a hot and a cold valve....
use one side for shore water and the other for onboard water, either would come out the same spigot.
[or two single faucets]
Thanks Frederick..... great minds .... type at the same time![LOL]
My '04 uses the same faucet for both and has hot and cold , same for the shower.

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by floyd

A simple switch to the power supply to the pump in the line would do what you want.

Floyd, I totally forgot about having a switch!

[GordM]

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

I don't believe I've ever seen a 13' trailer that fed both the City Water and
the water pump thru the same cold water faucet. I usually see 2 separate faucets, or many people install a regular hot-and-cold faucet set, and they connect the "City Water" to the Cold side and the water pump to the Hot side. I could be wrong...

You're probably right, but mine so far is a complete modification. I started with only the hand pump and tank. And then I installed a cold water tap that is connected to the city water inlet. But what I want to do is install a valve that will let me manually switch between city water and pumped tank water. This mod is going to even go further than this, but for now I'm hung up on the pump

[GordM]

Originally Posted by floyd

A simple switch to the power supply to the pump in the line would do what you want.
You could then use a faucet with a hot and a cold valve....
use one side for shore water and the other for onboard water, either would come out the same spigot.
[or two single faucets]
Thanks Frederick..... great minds .... type at the same time![LOL]
My '04 uses the same faucet for both and has hot and cold , same for the shower.

I think I'm getting what your saying, but I would then have to manually turn on the switch each time I wanted water correct? I generally wouldn't have an issue with that, but I'd rather have on demand because I'm going to install an outside spigot as well to run to my shower tent, which will utilize the eccotemp portable hot water heater for showers etc. I will also have to settle the tank size issue with this, but anyway you get the idea. As for hot water inside the camper, I'm going to battle that one later. For now, cold water inside the camper, and hot shower outside is my goal.

Just as a side bar, I'll install a valve to switch over back and forth from tank to city water, whenever its available, and it'll still feed both the cold water tap, and the outside spigot.

[Kevin Poll]

Originally Posted by GordM

what I want to do is install a valve that will let me manually switch between city water and pumped tank water. This mod is going to even go further than this, but for now I'm hung up on the pump

Gord,
the shureflo pumps are positive displacement pumps, which means that when they are not running they won't let water pass through them, like a valve. if you had a switch that cut power to the pump you could connect to city water on the same plumbing and as long as the pump wasn't between your outside connection and the tap, water would flow properly at the faucet. in this config. you would have to screw on your exterior city water cap tightly or else water might leak there when the 12v pump is being used. or you could install a one way valve just inside the inlet. (Actually, i think my city water inlet may have a one valve as part of its design)

keep us posted,

Kevin

[floyd]

Originally Posted by GordM

I think I'm getting what your saying, but I would then have to manually turn on the switch each time I wanted water correct? I generally wouldn't have an issue with that, but I'd rather have on demand because I'm going to install an outside spigot as well to run to my shower tent, which will utilize the eccotemp portable hot water heater for showers etc. I will also have to settle the tank size issue with this, but anyway you get the idea. As for hot water inside the camper, I'm going to battle that one later. For now, cold water inside the camper, and hot shower outside is my goal.

Just as a side bar, I'll install a valve to switch over back and forth from tank to city water, whenever its available, and it'll still feed both the cold water tap, and the outside spigot.

A simple check valve in the line from the pump is all you really need for change over, since your shorewater inlet is already a check valve.
bad news though... the shurflow pump is adequate for running a shower, but that little pump may only be good enough for a sink. Your shower may be weak. check for GPM before buying.

[GordM]

Originally Posted by Kevin Poll

Gord,
the shureflo pumps are positive displacement pumps, which means that when they are not running they won't let water pass through them, like a valve. if you had a switch that cut power to the pump you could connect to city water on the same plumbing and as long as the pump wasn't between your outside connection and the tap, water would flow properly at the faucet. in this config. you would have to screw on your exterior city water cap tightly or else water might leak there when the 12v pump is being used. or you could install a one way valve just inside the inlet. (Actually, i think my city water inlet may have a one valve as part of its design)

keep us posted,

Kevin

Yes I thought about that, but I think I'll just do a A-B valve (if that's what its called). I could put a plug on the inlet to prevent the water from coming out when using the pump, but I think this will be easier in the long run. But my next conundrum is going to be the tank size I have. I'm not sure how big it is in litres or gallons, but I'm pretty sure it's not even big enough for a single shower. Use at the sink will be okay, but the shower will drain it every time I'm sure.

[GordM]

Originally Posted by floyd

A simple check valve in the line from the pump is all you really need for change over, since your shorewater inlet is already a check valve.
bad news though... the shurflow pump is adequate for running a shower, but that little pump may only be good enough for a sink. Your shower may be weak. check for GPM before buying.

Yep, I think I'll have to get the 3.3 GPM AC pump. I don't think my inlet has a check valve actually? Its just a cheapish plastic one, and water just passes straight through it.