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09-11-2009, 10:37 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette Deluxe / 1997 Toyota T-100
Posts: 177
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Ok after installing my new LEDS and
Getting a battery monitor.
I now know that my POWER CONVERTER is not poviding power to the battery.
Installed an ELIXER converter in 2005 went bad in 2007 they replaced it, now 2009 went bad again.
So I am wondering what everyone is using out there.
I do travel backcountry road so need something that will work well and last.
I boondock so most power comes from SOLAR Panels but like to plug in sometimes on the road and at home to chill down the fridge and keep the battery up.
So any info would help alot. Do not need a large one 20 AMPS will be fine.
THANKS DAVE
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09-12-2009, 01:21 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Former Casita 17 ft owner
Posts: 1,498
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09-12-2009, 06:30 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 24 ft Shasta Ultra Flite
Posts: 251
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These really work well, I use a 45 amp model with have a built in smart charger check on Ebay
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09-12-2009, 01:02 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette Deluxe / 1997 Toyota T-100
Posts: 177
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Looked around seems like a good converter.
Does anyone know if it has circuts for both 120 v and 12 v
The ELIXER has 120 circut brakers and 12 volt blade fuses I like this panel but do not to replace it every 2 years.
THANKS DAVE
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09-12-2009, 04:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Ok after installing my new LEDS and
Getting a battery monitor.
I now know that my POWER CONVERTER is not poviding power to the battery.
Installed an ELIXER converter in 2005 went bad in 2007 they replaced it, now 2009 went bad again.
So I am wondering what everyone is using out there.
I do travel backcountry road so need something that will work well and last.
I boondock so most power comes from SOLAR Panels but like to plug in sometimes on the road and at home to chill down the fridge and keep the battery up.
So any info would help alot. Do not need a large one 20 AMPS will be fine.
THANKS DAVE
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This is a tough question... Scamp used American for years with most people getting good service from them, But I know of several people who have had them fail repeatedly.
Mine is flawless after 6 seasons, but it would be tough to recommend any particular brand since failure rates depend on load, care and luck and are not very well documented.
Here are a couple of hints for long converter life though...
1] Evict the dust bunnies every couple of years!
2] Be sure that the converter is mounted in a well ventilated area.
Some sixteens have them under the side dinette with no vent. if yours is
there, simply add a vent under the seat.
3] kept the area behind the converter free from stored items that could block
ventilation and cause overheating
4] Check for fan operation regularly ..... even better and maybe overkill, add power ventilation to the compartment ( it can be 110V if you choose since the converter only works on shore power!)
As you can see , my point is that HEAT is a converter's worst enemy!
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09-12-2009, 05:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1979 Layton 22 ft / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Looked around seems like a good converter.
Does anyone know if it has circuts for both 120 v and 12 v
The ELIXER has 120 circut brakers and 12 volt blade fuses I ike this panel but do not to replace it every 2 years.
THANKS DAVE
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I ordered a Xantex XDC-40 (40Amp) from www.bestconverter.com . These units have been used in a host of upgrades (some of which are referenced on the website). It is fan cooled (temp controlled) with front intake - exhaust, very well built, small, fairly quiet, and powerful. I know Randy will be glad to help with ideas and advice on this matter. He shows a conversion using a WFCO power converter (3 stage), but I'm not sure about the cooling Vs the Xantrex. If there's sufficient space, I would go Xantrex for the cooling aspect.
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09-13-2009, 08:46 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Former Burro owner and fan!
Posts: 9,015
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if you boondock most of the time, consider...none.
Make a fuse and distribution panel for your 120v, and on the rare occasions you are plugged in, use a good battery charger for your battery, run everything else directly off the land line and your 12v stuff, off the battery.
It does not sound like from your style of camping, that a converter is even needed. Why invite more expensive systems to break down into your rig?
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09-13-2009, 09:53 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette Deluxe / 1997 Toyota T-100
Posts: 177
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GINA you did it again.
I think I will take the ELIXER panel that I have, remove the charging unit and make it a distribution panel only.
Pickup a Morning Star solar controller SS10-12 or SS10-10 and a new battery charger which I need around the home front anyway.
I like the idea to become more simple.
When on retirement funds this sounds like the best way.
That is why I enjoy this group so much, a group of doers.
Thanks always DAVE
ps if a PD Inteli-power 4035 comes up for sale someplace may just do it but for now this is the best way.
Next project remove the A/C do not use and can remove that much weight.
This is after getting the Solar up and running.
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09-13-2014, 06:42 AM
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#9
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Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: 1990 13 ft Casita DLX #6
Colorado
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina D.
if you boondock most of the time, consider...none.
Make a fuse and distribution panel for your 120v, and on the rare occasions you are plugged in, use a good battery charger for your battery, run everything else directly off the land line and your 12v stuff, off the battery.
It does not sound like from your style of camping, that a converter is even needed. Why invite more expensive systems to break down into your rig?
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I like this idea.
I dry camp 90% of the time and already have a 3 stage charger (in battery box) and solar panel.
When doing this do you fuse each 12V appliance on separate fuses? If so, where can you get 12V fuse panels that you can label each circuit?
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09-13-2014, 07:27 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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This thread is sooo old that the real queston almost got lost... It's better to start a new thread.
To answer your question, the Progressive Dynamics PD-6000 series has up to 18 stations as well as blown fuse LED indicators. Here's a link:
PD6000 Series DC Power Distribution Panels
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09-13-2014, 09:09 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Amoroso
Trailer: no
California
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Tharp
Ok after installing my new LEDS and
Getting a battery monitor.
I now know that my POWER CONVERTER is not poviding power to the battery.
Installed an ELIXER converter in 2005 went bad in 2007 they replaced it, now 2009 went bad again.
So I am wondering what everyone is using out there.
I do travel backcountry road so need something that will work well and last.
I boondock so most power comes from SOLAR Panels but like to plug in sometimes on the road and at home to chill down the fridge and keep the battery up.
So any info would help alot. Do not need a large one 20 AMPS will be fine.
THANKS DAVE
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Well just got the information I have been searching for..Looking to install LED and battery system and I got perfect way to do it now..
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09-13-2014, 09:19 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina D.
if you boondock most of the time, consider...none.
Make a fuse and distribution panel for your 120v, and on the rare occasions you are plugged in, use a good battery charger for your battery, run everything else directly off the land line and your 12v stuff, off the battery.
It does not sound like from your style of camping, that a converter is even needed. Why invite more expensive systems to break down into your rig?
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Gina has the right idea, in my opinion.
I didn't like the way my converter was behaving so turned it off 4 or 5 years ago. I got a batter minder to use while the trailer is in it's nest (under cover beside the house). I rely on the tow and solar while camping. We spend 3+ months every year without electricity hookups and this has worked great for us.
Also we have greatly reduced the power needs mainly by switching to LED lights.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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09-13-2014, 09:36 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Information?
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdisonFenl
Well just got the information I have been searching for..Looking to install LED and battery system and I got perfect way to do it now..
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FWIW: That information is 5 years old and some of the items mentioned may no longer be available.
The current weapon of choice is the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 power center that includes AC distribution, a converter, 12 fuse stations, and a three stage smart charger for the battery.
I have installed more than six of these without problems. Usually less than $200.
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09-14-2014, 08:10 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 728
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After my second converter went out (First one lasted many years, second one only a year or so), I decided to not use the built-in converter and just use a battery charger I've hard-wired into the 12 volt side. The fuse and breaker panel from the converter is still there providing overcurrent protection, but the electronic package has been disconnected.
-- Dan Meyer
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09-14-2014, 09:09 AM
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#15
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Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: 1990 13 ft Casita DLX #6
Colorado
Posts: 54
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Question
When plugged in at home on a shore 120V outlet. The converter "adjusts" and you get get 120V power to the outlets. Without the converter there is no power. For those that separated the systems (no converter) did you wire so it works with the 240V double pole trailer cord with a 120V connection? Is that is even possible? Or just live with it only operating with a 240 V shore connection and accept that is a drawback for separating the systems?
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09-14-2014, 09:21 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Hopefully no one is running 240 VAC to any trailers in this group. That big three prong plug on the shore power cord isn't a 240 VAC plug, like a range plug, it's indexed to plug into only120 VAC, 30 amp outlets.
The converter is the part of the power chassis that "Converts" 120 VAC to 12 VDC for 12 volt things such as lights, water pump, fans and furnaces.
There is usually an AC distribution section that has breakers for incoming AC and internal AC loads such as the converters input, AC outlets and the air conditioner.
Without the shore power cord connected there usually isn't power to any of the AC outlets unless an inverter (12 VDC to 120VAC) has been installed.
That said, European caravans do have 200-240 volt shore power connections, but that's their standard.
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09-14-2014, 09:52 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Losthwy
Question
When plugged in at home on a shore 120V outlet. The converter "adjusts" and you get get 120V power to the outlets. Without the converter there is no power. For those that separated the systems (no converter) did you wire so it works with the 240V double pole trailer cord with a 120V connection? Is that is even possible? Or just live with it only operating with a 240 V shore connection and accept that is a drawback for separating the systems?
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As far as I know the only 240 Volt system is in some very large RVs. Those that require a 50 Amp service. The 12 volt system and 120 Volt system in all cases are separate. The converter doesn't "adjust" anything. It simply powers the 12 Volt system and charges the battery. Simple as that.
The 30 Amp power cord has three wires, Hot wire, Neutral wire, and Safety Ground wire. Thus three prongs at the plug.
There are some power boxes at campgrounds that provide 240 volt 4 prong connections (50 amp). An adapter to out little trailer 30 amp connectors can be used. It simply does not connect to the other hot wire. 50 Amp service with 4 prongs is hot, hot, neutral and safety ground.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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09-14-2014, 10:39 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Meyer
After my second converter went out (First one lasted many years, second one only a year or so),
-- Dan Meyer
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Let me guess.... The first one was an "American" brand, the second one a WFCO.
If you want to go back to a real power center, one with a 3 stage charger etc., try the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045
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09-14-2014, 11:35 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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Well dang, I was all set to spend money on a new converter just to upgrade to a newer one and a smart charger, but now I question why (at least right now). I have a good separate "smart" battery charger, and everything works fine in the trailer as is. If I am worried about over charging the batteries I can either just disconnect them when on shore power for extended periods (to prevent boil over) or somehow disable the existing charge function. I will investigate.
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09-14-2014, 11:51 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Unless your battery charger is specifically designed for deep cell batteries your concerns are very valid and may well happen....
I have my PD-4045 plugged in 24/7 for months and months at a time and have yet to have to add more than a drop or two of water every 6 months. And, when I want to use it, it is always fully charged and ready to go. Right now I am tapping in a second battery and expect the PD-4045 to take care of that one as well.
And, HoooRay... you will be updating to current SCAMP power center specs.
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