What to avoid when shopping for a FGC

[VinnyZ]

Hopefully this post is in the proper forum. We're beginning a search for an FGC. Most of our 5 previous campers have been in need of at least some repair so the certainty of that isn't a concern as much as the FG aspect of a camper. Being the same material as a boat there are similarities in maintenance (or lack there of) but my concern is the difference in use of the FG material which could bring about certain concerns that the uninitiated would not be aware of. So, please help educate me on what to be aware of when shopping for an FGC.

[Jon in AZ]

Welcome to the fiberglass world, Vince.

I'd say the issues are not all that different from conventionally-constructed RVs. Since you have experience there, you should be in good shape. In order of priority:

1. TITLE. For a variety of reasons (longevity, desirability, relative scarcity) small fiberglass trailers seem to be common objects of scams, so be cautious and make sure the seller has a clear title in his/her own name.
2. FLOOR. A rotten floor is repairable, but it is a messy, difficult repair. Rotten floors are usually caused by neglected leaks in windows and vents, and (less commonly) by plumbing leaks, through-shell fasteners (rivets on some brands), and the seam where the two halves of the shell are joined. Look for staining inside the trailer and excessive application of caulking outside. Use a screwdriver and a flashlight to inspect and test the floor for soundness, paying special attention to the outside edges (which are usually inside seats and cabinets).
3. APPLIANCES. Make sure the fridge, furnace, AC, HW heater, stove are working. Repair/replacement of these is not as difficult as the floor, but it can get expensive, and the price should reflect whether they work or not.
4. CHASSIS. Look carefully for deep rust and cracks in the frame or evidence of previous repairs, especially if the unit is older. Try to find out how old the axle is- torsion axles have a lifespan of 20 years or so. A worn-out axle will cost $600-1000 to replace, depending on who does the labor, so, again, the price should reflect that. Look for brakes as well. Older, smaller trailers were often built without them, but most modern small and mid-size tow vehicles require them.

One thing not to be overly concerned about is surface dullness in the fiberglass gelcoat. A shiny one that has been stored indoors will command a higher price, but there are ways to bring back a shine, if that's important to you.

There is a very helpful inspection checklist in the document center on this forum. Here's a link: Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Buyers Check List. It's in the tab that says "More" at the very top if you need to find it again.

[VinnyZ]

Thanks Jon in AZ. I'm currently on the trail of a Casita 16' for $2500. Too good to be true?

[David Tilston]

The better the deal the more careful you should be. I have made some great deals, but face to face. No, "send the money, and we will send you the trailer". That is a scam.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by VinnyZ

Thanks Jon in AZ. I'm currently on the trail of a Casita 16' for $2500. Too good to be true?

Depends.

Location, location, location, maintenance, maintenance, maintenance, options, options, options ... and of course, year of the trailer

[VinnyZ]

I'm on the trail of a 2003 16' Casita SD that is described as in good shape, everything works etc etc. Sounds like a good deal but maybe a bit too good if you know what I mean. Thoughts?

[VinnyZ]

Always face to face no shipping etc. Lots of crooks cruising the internet.

[Jon in AZ]

Agree. $2500 for a 2003 with everything working is extremely suspicious. $8-10K would be more typical. Proceed with great caution.

By the way, are you following Molded Fiberglass Trailer Ads - US | Fiberglass RV's For Sale? That's a good place to get a feeling for typical prices.

[VinnyZ]

Thanks Jon

[Jon in AZ]

Vince, I re-read your original post. Regarding molded fiberglass in general, it's a durable and readily repairable material. It does require a different knowledge base than working with metal or wood, but many newbies have successfully tackled small FG repairs. Post specific questions here, and there's a wealth of experience to draw on.

Surface cracks in the gelcoat are common around stress points (windows, doors, vents, rivets) and are not a cause for alarm. Deeper cracks may need attention, so they should be factored into the price.

One thing to know is that most molded FG trailers, being frameless, depend on some of the interior parts for structural support. Something to look into when considering alterations.

[VinnyZ]

I'm guessing that "being frameless" means the trailers have a frame and that the box has a frame?

[David Tilston]

I think Jon was referring to the lack of wood frames in the construction of the trailer shell. This makes it necessary for interior supports to hold up the roof. Typically this is a floor to ceiling closet, or other structures that support the roof.

Most fibreglass trailers have a steel frame that holds the fibreglass shell. The exception is Nest Caravans:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tep-63317.html

[Bob Miller]

Frameless in this instance means that there are no inside the wall supports for the molded shell except for the internal structures such as closets and inside divider walls.

A "Sticky" is a conventionally built RV that will usually be built somewhat like house construction with wood framing materials between the inner and outer walls. Those stickys with filon or similar outside fiberglass sheeting are not the Molded Fiberglass construction discussed hereabouts.

Although there is a "Frameless" FGRV currently in development, all past constructs have been with a molded fiberglass shell, usually in 2 to 4 pieces, mounted on a conventional trailer frame.

[VinnyZ]

Well that certainly makes more sense.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by VinnyZ

I'm on the trail of a 2003 16' Casita SD that is described as in good shape, everything works etc etc. Sounds like a good deal but maybe a bit too good if you know what I mean. Thoughts?

There are lots of scams out there and if it sounds to good to be true it usually is. One good practise for checking the pricing is to look at Fiberglass-rv-4sale.com sold section to get a feel for what the trailer should be going for. Another way to check on a seller is to google the contact info - i.e. email address or phone number and see how many other cities or trailers the person is attempting to sell ... or the same trailer with different pics and prices etc...

[Bob Miller]

Basically, if an FGRV looks like a real bargain, and the ad is more than 1 day old and it's still not sold, unless it is 17 miles south of nowhere, it's a scam.

Look at the post I just put up in General Discussions for a Casita "Fresh Water" Special.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by VinnyZ

Thanks Jon in AZ. I'm currently on the trail of a Casita 16' for $2500. Too good to be true?

That may have been the one in Encino that had its ad taken down from being flagged as a scam.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post486070

[VinnyZ]

I emailed the guy and told him I wasn't comfortable with his deal but would accept shipment of the trailer and pay him after all the paperwork had successfully cleared the various channels. Yea right. Like that'll happen.

[RogerDat]

I think Jon put together a good list in the first response. Those are the things to look out for most are not deal breakers IF the price reflects any issues in that list.

I would add tire age. After about 6 or 7 years of the manufacture date stamped on the side wall (may be on the back side) the tires have a greater risk of failure from the rubber degrading from the inside out.

Many don't drive camper enough to wear out the tread but the old rubber won't hold up to several hours of highway. Again not a deal breaker just something to look at and factor in. Might not want to hit the road for a few hundred mile trip back from buying the camper on old tires.

Check that windows function, as do inside and tail lights, water pump and other electrical systems. Old wiring that has been hacked at can be a pain to re-do or expensive if you pay to have it done. If they don't have a usable camper battery bring one or plug into your tow vehicle.

[VinnyZ]

Thanks for the info. I especially like the battery idea; never thought about that one.