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Old 08-17-2014, 11:49 AM   #21
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Steve, That Lucas Red & Tacky #2 info is good to know. I believe I have a Dexter axle, and I do have the Dexter recommended grease list. I'm learning a lot here. I wasn't aware that the axles came to Scamp all built up with the hubs. I just didn't want to mix grease types if I didn't have to. I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning and call Scamp for further guidance if this becomes a warranty situation. Not sure if they'll let me pull, clean, inspect, re-pack, and re-install the bearings, or have it done at a trailer shop locally. The Scamp is only 2 weeks old with less than 600 miles. Thanks for the info. I'll let you know what Scamp tells me.

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Old 08-17-2014, 11:56 AM   #22
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Roy here is a video about adjusting brakes posted by Clif (the Minimalist) a couple of months ago in a similar thread:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=9Tf1Bc526zE

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Old 08-17-2014, 09:47 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Thanks, good info guys.





Am I reading this right? The EZ-lube is not filled at the factory? Seems sort of strange, it would be the easiest way to grease the bearings on an assembly line. Does it not provide adequate lubrication?

2nd question. Are there any good threads or links that tell us how to do a brake inspection/adjusment?
I consider it SOP for trailer axles to repack and adjust after the first 500-1000 miles, even if it was initially assembled correctly. That's a lot of peace of mind for a dollar's worth of grease and a few minutes time.
Tire inspection/pressure checks and DOT light checks before each trip, along with hub checks and a walk around at every fuel stop are just more SOP.

Relax, and like The Gipper said.... "trust but verify"!
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:17 PM   #24
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Wheel bearing replacement

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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Thanks, good info guys.





Am I reading this right? The EZ-lube is not filled at the factory? Seems sort of strange, it would be the easiest way to grease the bearings on an assembly line. Does it not provide adequate lubrication?

2nd question. Are there any good threads or links that tell us how to do a brake inspection/adjusment?

It took a full tube (mini grease gun) before I even had grease coming out the front.

Ez lube isn't meant to pack your bearings, just move some fresh grease through them. Honestly, IMHO, it's a pointless gimmick. If I had known, I would have gotten an axle without the feature.

I've never had a need to grease my bearings more than once a year.

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Old 08-18-2014, 08:59 AM   #25
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Ez lube isn't meant to pack your bearings, just move some fresh grease through them. Honestly, IMHO, it's a pointless gimmick.
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Explain why repacking doesn't just move fresh grease through the bearing?!
You could put a glob of grease in your hand and wipe it into a fresh rag if that would make the process more satisfying!
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:37 AM   #26
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I had trouble with a wheel bearing in 2012. I also had all of them replaced at the end of the 2013 season. On our way home last week a wheel bearing gave out again. Thankfully, due to the advice on this forum, I have carried extra seals and bearings on my trips. The last place said my grease zerts on the end of the axle are plugged up and need to be replaced. We put on 7000+ miles this year on these bearings.
Eric your post makes me wonder if you have some other issue with your axle/wheels happening or what brand/make of bearing you are using. What year is your trailer? If its a new trailer there may be an issue with your axle/hubs. I know someone who had a new trailer that the axle/hubs were incorrectly manufactured by a fraction on an inch which resulted in bearing/wheel issues that were only resolved when the axle was replaced under warranty.

As others have mentioned if you use a *good* name brand (such as Timken or SKF) of bearings and seals you should be getting way more than a year and 7000 miles out of them. I have used the same bearings for 5 years and thousands of miles a number of times without issue. I do repack the bearings at least once a year though. The one and only time I had to change bearings out in less than a year (actually in less than 3 months) was the one time I decided to go cheap and buy a set of no name made in China bearings on line..... they ran warm from the day they were installed - took them off and repacked after the first month didn't help - ended up tossing them.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:53 AM   #27
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What year is your trailer?

As others have mentioned if you use a *good* name brand (such as Timken or SKF) of bearings and seals you should be getting way more than a year and 7000 miles out of them.

I have a 2007 13' Scamp with a EZ-lube dexter axle. Do you know of issues with this model?

I found out this weekend I have been using the made in China bearings. Today, I found a place locally to buy Timken bearings. I also am going to start doing the work myself so I get comfortable with it and know how it was done.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:07 AM   #28
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Wow... 26 posts about something that should be a slam dunk, trailer wheel bearings.
Unless someone can cite experience to the contrary, what has worked for me for the past (to many) years:

1. New-to-me trailer: If over 5 years old, remove and replace existing bearing with new American made components. If less than 5 years old, remove, inspect, repack and reinstall.

2. Repack every 2 years or 10,000 miles, which ever come first.

3. Use any brand name wheel bearing grease on the shelf at you local auto supply store.

4. Never use off-shore mfg bearings. American made are only a few $$ more and worth it every time.

And the line about bearings running hot until they break in.... pure B.S.
If a bearing hub is ever more than "Warm" to the touch, something is wrong.....

It sounds like some builders are assuming that the supplier is sending ready to use axles. It would seem that an extra 15 minutes of labor on the production inspecting them would be well spent.

And, if I were a new trailer buyer, it wouldn't give me much comfort if the company I bought it from tried to pass a bearing problem off onto their supplier.



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Old 08-18-2014, 10:26 AM   #29
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4. Never use off-shore mfg bearings. American made are only a few $$ more and worth it every time.

And the line about bearings running hot until they break in.... pure B.S.
If a bearing hub is ever more than "Warm" to the touch, something is wrong.....
News flash - Even American Bearing companies such as Timken and SKF are making their bearings outside of the USA these days. The difference I believe is still there though as they still have higher quality control specs.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:36 AM   #30
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Here's the latest on my too hot to hold wheel hub on a new Scamp. I called Scamp this morning and they referred me to Dexter and gave me their number. I called Dexter and explained what happened. The Dexter Service and Warranty Mgr told me to bring it to Camping World and have it inspected and repaired and it would all be covered by warranty. Dexter also said he was doubtful that the bearings were at fault, and thought it sounded like a brake dragging or sticking problem. Either way it would be covered.

I called CW and the service mgr told me they don't have a warranty program with Dexter so I pay, and settle with Dexter afterward. That was acceptable, but the downside was CW couldn't fit me in for a week, and then it would take another week and a half to get it repaired if they had to order parts. That was a show stopper, because I have places to go and people to see before that. (Algonac Rally)

I called another local tow and hitch trailer company and they can fit me in tomorrow. I'll still have to pay and settle with Dexter afterward. Again, I'm ok with that.

If this wasn't a warranty issue, I'd do it myself. I'll let you all know what the final resolution is.

Tom
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:59 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by ericw View Post
I have a 2007 13' Scamp with a EZ-lube dexter axle. Do you know of issues with this model?

I found out this weekend I have been using the made in China bearings. Today, I found a place locally to buy Timken bearings. I also am going to start doing the work myself so I get comfortable with it and know how it was done.
Nope personnaly not aware of any issues with that year trailer - but that doesnt mean a thing I only asked the age of the trailer as I was wondering if it was an older trailer or a brand new trailer & if there could be something other than just a bearing issue happening.
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:01 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericw View Post
I have a 2007 13' Scamp with a EZ-lube dexter axle. Do you know of issues with this model?

I found out this weekend I have been using the made in China bearings. Today, I found a place locally to buy Timken bearings. I also am going to start doing the work myself so I get comfortable with it and know how it was done.
Regardless of the name on the box, look at the bearings themselves, usually on the race, to see the country of origin.

There are many large, well respected US and European companies out there selling products made in China, India or other country formerly known for shoddy goods. However, they have a reputation to uphold, so more than likely they have people on site confirming manufacturing processes and doing off the line random testing.

So, the question is not so much where was it made, but who stands behind it.

I make no claims or recommendations. For myself, I prefer to buy US made goods and support our own economy, but sometimes that is just not possible. When not, I stay with a known company.

Another quick point, 'Made in *****" may not always be a clear indicator. A couple of years ago there was a Chinese auto parts company looking to acquire a closed plant in my neck of the woods. Their expressed desire was to do final assembly of Chinese brake and clutch parts, so the label could say made in the US. As far as I know, the label would have to read, " Assembled in the US with parts manufactured in China", or some such.

The world ain't so simple anymore............
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:32 AM   #33
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When working I often ordered bearings 5000 at a time .Chinese bearings were considerably cheaper if you did not factor in labor ,downtime and lost production
Not all Chinese bearings are second rate but the quality and quality control was very inconsistent . I ordered 5000 sealed ball bearings for a rebuilding project and discovered after reassembling the machine that the Chinese factory failed to put any grease in half the bearings.
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Old 08-18-2014, 12:32 PM   #34
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News flash - Even American Bearing companies such as Timken and SKF are making their bearings outside of the USA these days. The difference I believe is still there though as they still have higher quality control specs.
Not News Here....

But, as mentioned, if the Happy Lucky Bearing Co wants to sell bearings to SKF and put the SKF name on them, they will have to maintain a higher standard than if they are being packaged with the Happy Lucky Bearing Company logo on them. There has even been suggestions made that parts than don't meet the standards of the U.S. company buying them are sent downstream to the house brands.

Now, in repairing Toyota's I only use Toyota parts because they have a higher minimum standard for parts from vendors then even other branded, but identical, parts from that same vendor.



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Old 08-18-2014, 01:02 PM   #35
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The Dexter axle that is on my Trillium came from the factory with bearings made in China. Raz
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:51 PM   #36
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The new axle that Scamp installed on my 1999 Scamp was made in China so I am assuming the wheel bearings were made in China .
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Old 08-18-2014, 03:27 PM   #37
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We bought our used egg last fall, and I inspected brakes and hubs soon as I could this spring. I was amazed to find different kinds of grease from side to side. Turns out it was an easy answer...

Being a devotee of Lucs Red & Tacky, I tore everything apart, bought new bearings and seals, cleaned the hubs spotless, packed the bearings, installed new cups, and figured out how to service this EZ Lube axle. Never having had one before, they are certainly different.

We've put a lot of miles on it this summer (more to come!), but have had hub (behind the cap) temps no higher than the low 120's. It means I did something right for a change.

Best of luck to ya,

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Old 08-18-2014, 04:57 PM   #38
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Wonder if it is something simple such as the castle nut over tightened? I was told to tighten fully then back off just a smidge in order to fully seat but not leave it over tightened.

I was also told that EZ Lube only worked correctly if the wheel was being turned as grease was being carefully pumped in. Otherwise it was pretty easy to pump grease until that spot on bearings fills up then have the excess go into the brakes.

Anyway glad you found a local shop that could get you in, hopefully it is something simple and you can get back on the road soon so I can say howdy in Algonac!
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:02 PM   #39
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Wheel bearing replacement

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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Explain why repacking doesn't just move fresh grease through the bearing?!
You could put a glob of grease in your hand and wipe it into a fresh rag if that would make the process more satisfying!

There's a difference between cleaning and thoroughly packing a bearing, and just pumping some grease through with an ez lube axle. I certainly would never expect an ez lube axle to properly pack new, dry bearings.

By the way, if you aren't cleaning off the preservative on the new bearings before packing, you're breaking down the grease.


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Old 08-18-2014, 07:13 PM   #40
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Wonder if it is something simple such as the castle nut over tightened? I was told to tighten fully then back off just a smidge in order to fully seat but not leave it over tightened.

I was also told that EZ Lube only worked correctly if the wheel was being turned as grease was being carefully pumped in. Otherwise it was pretty easy to pump grease until that spot on bearings fills up then have the excess go into the brakes.

Anyway glad you found a local shop that could get you in, hopefully it is something simple and you can get back on the road soon so I can say howdy in Algonac!
The technician at Dexter said he was fairly certain that it was due to a brake malfunction. The hub stayed cool for the first 300+ miles, and didn't overheat until the 2nd day of driving and another 300 miles.

Dexter wants it checked out and they are willing to stand by it, so I'll oblige. Hoping for a quick turnaround. I'm looking forward to putting a face with all these names too, Roger.

Tom
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