Wheel bearing replacement

[ericw]

I had trouble with a wheel bearing in 2012. I also had all of them replaced at the end of the 2013 season. On our way home last week a wheel bearing gave out again. Thankfully, due to the advice on this forum, I have carried extra seals and bearings on my trips. The last place said my grease zerts on the end of the axle are plugged up and need to be replaced. We put on 7000+ miles this year on these bearings.

I am not the ultimate do it your self person, but I am reasonably handy and have seen this done several times now (including last week . I am going to try and replace the other set of bearings myself.

I know some basics like keep the grease off the brakes. All advice, videos, hints, links to other threads, and general suggestions on replacing the bearings and how best to maintain them and not have this happen again is welcome. Specifically, I would also like your thoughts on using a "bearing buddy".

Thanks in advance!

[floyd]

Originally Posted by ericw

I had trouble with a wheel bearing in 2012. I also had all of them replaced at the end of the 2013 season. On our way home last week a wheel bearing gave out again. Thankfully, due to the advice on this forum, I have carried extra seals and bearings on my trips. The last place said my grease zerts on the end of the axle are plugged up and need to be replaced. We put on 7000+ miles this year on these bearings.

I am not the ultimate do it your self person, but I am reasonably handy and have seen this done several times now (including last week . I am going to try and replace the other set of bearings myself.

I know some basics like keep the grease off the brakes. All advice, videos, hints, links to other threads, and general suggestions on replacing the bearings and how best to maintain them and not have this happen again is welcome. Specifically, I would also like your thoughts on using a "bearing buddy".

Thanks in advance!

It sounds like you have E-Z Lube axles.
They would not be compatible with BearingBuddies.
If you have defective (plugged up) Zerks, (I doubt it) they are simple to replace for a few cents with a socket wrench.
At any rate if you have had your bearings repacked by hand then E-Z Lube or BearingBuddies would not be a factor in your bearing failures.
Next Time you repack, check the spindles and the races for smoothness.
You might consider checking or replacing the races to see that the are completely seated in the hub. clean every bit of grease and replace it with a good lithium based grease then be sure the bearings are seated properly.

[Jack L]

I'm curious. When your bearings were replaced did you use Chinese bearings or some made in the USA ?

[mary and bob]

Last camper wheel bearings I replaced were a few months ago. Parts guy gave me a choice of Chinese or USA made bearings. I went with the USA made even though they were more money. Like Floyd says, it's unlikely that the fitting is plugged, but I have seen grease harden up in the passage way after the fitting and not let new grease through.

[The Minimalist]

The hardening up of the grease may be the result of mixing greases. Por ejemplo, lithium and moly; not recommended practice. Make sure the grease in the gun you use on the easy lube axles matches the grease that the bearings were hand packed with. If you have others do it, specify the grease you use in your gun. Also, if you change grease in your grease gun, clean it thoroughly to ensure that all the old grease is out.

If we were just using straight axle grease, there wouldn't be a problem. But, the additives used by various manufacturers to improve the characteristics of their grease are not always compatible.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by The Minimalist

The hardening up of the grease may be the result of mixing greases. Por ejemplo, lithium and moly; not recommended practice. Make sure the grease in the gun you use on the easy lube axles matches the grease that the bearings were hand packed with. If you have others do it, specify the grease you use in your gun. Also, if you change grease in your grease gun, clean it thoroughly to ensure that all the old grease is out.

If we were just using straight axle grease, there wouldn't be a problem. But, the additives used by various manufacturers to improve the characteristics of their grease are not always compatible.

Just for clarity... it is not the additives which are incompatible, it is the base or primary thickener. Nearly all regular automotive grease today is lithium based, but you might find an old can lying around which has a soap base or a clay base, or maybe even a new special purpose grease which is "Molybdenum Disulfide" based.
Grease is oil in a base or carrier. Each base releases oil and absorbs oil at different rates. when bases are mixed it causes the one base to harden and the other to flow out, leaving something like crust and slime.
To reiterate it is the base which matters. I.E... Molybdenum as an additive would not be a problem... Molybdenum Disulfide based grease is, well... another matter.
Look for the words "Lithium Complex" on the label.
The brand is not so important...I like "Kendall Blue" cause it is a good grease and it is pretty. Also it shows up nicely when displacing old grease in my E-Z Lube axle.

[mary and bob]

Very interesting information there Floyd. Over the 20 year period that I was a mechanic for Ryder, we changed grease types or brands several times. I believe though it was more a price related decision and not necessarily a decision based on quality or compatibility. Maybe your explanation is the reason we had so much trouble getting grease into components.

[The Minimalist]

Now you done gone an give me a lithium complex!

Thanks for the clarification.

[Jared J]

I would look for more problems. Bearings should last for years. My '96 car trailer has many miles on the original bearings. My '89 nissan with 210k on it has the original bearings.

There's no reason trailer bearings should fail that often if they're properly lubed once a year.


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[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by ericw

Specifically, I would also like your thoughts on using a "bearing buddy".

I can't tell based on the information you've provided that you have Bearing Buddies or asking if you should use them. I'd say, if you have Bearing Buddies, get them off the axle. (Is THAT what's causing the problem?)

On the otherhand.... E-Z Lube, I love and now have them on my second trailer.

[Jared J]

Bearing buddies are only for boat trailers, IMHO. I have an ez lube axle on mine, but I don't know how well it works. I've never seen the point behind it with my maintenance routine, so I haven't used it.




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[TomK]

Does anyone know what grease Scamp uses on their trailers? I was just there and forgot to ask. Their manual just states grease them. I had a wheel hub that was hot, but not excessively at the 200 mile mark. They say that is normal, just normal break-in. At the next 300 mile tow, it was too hot to keep my hand on. I want to give it an extra shot or two of grease.

Tom

[ericw]

I was asking about bearing buddy and will not be using them (does not work with my ez lube).

I went to the place where I got my bearings and to buy new ones and they were made in China. The place I went is the place multiple local RV dealers use. Has anyone had better luck with something else?

I have lost a couple of bearings at 6000-8000 miles (in roughly 1 year of driving). A couple of people at parts stores said anything over 5000 miles is just good luck. The dexter website said grease every 12,000 miles or 12 months. What is your experience?

I think the grease zerk or something is plugged up (RV technician agrees). Any thoughts on how to unplug it?

Thanks for the advice.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by TomK

Does anyone know what grease Scamp uses on their trailers? I was just there and forgot to ask. Their manual just states grease them. I had a wheel hub that was hot, but not excessively at the 200 mile mark. They say that is normal, just normal break-in. At the next 300 mile tow, it was too hot to keep my hand on. I want to give it an extra shot or two of grease.

Tom

Scamp uses only "Elbow Grease" on their trailers, and plenty of it!
They buy their axles from AL-KO and Dexter, they don't assemble them, they only install them.

Use any good "Lithium Complex" wheel bearing grease.
Actually you should hand repack them after the first 500-1000 miles, then you can use the EZ Lube function between brake inspections.
Of course that would be a good time to do your first brake inspection/adjustment as well.

[Jared J]

Originally Posted by TomK

Does anyone know what grease Scamp uses on their trailers? I was just there and forgot to ask. Their manual just states grease them. I had a wheel hub that was hot, but not excessively at the 200 mile mark. They say that is normal, just normal break-in. At the next 300 mile tow, it was too hot to keep my hand on. I want to give it an extra shot or two of grease.

Tom

It shouldn't be that hot. It needs to be inspected, a shot of grease isn't the fix.


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[Jared J]

Originally Posted by ericw

I was asking about bearing buddy and will not be using them (does not work with my ez lube).

I went to the place where I got my bearings and to buy new ones and they were made in China. The place I went is the place multiple local RV dealers use. Has anyone had better luck with something else?

I have lost a couple of bearings at 6000-8000 miles (in roughly 1 year of driving). A couple of people at parts stores said anything over 5000 miles is just good luck. The dexter website said grease every 12,000 miles or 12 months. What is your experience?

I think the grease zerk or something is plugged up (RV technician agrees). Any thoughts on how to unplug it?

Thanks for the advice.

First, I would find a new parts store if their bearings are only good for 5,000 miles. You should get 100,000 on them unless something fails.

Are you packing the new bearings before installing them? They should be.

If grease comes out from around the axle, the zerk works. If not, the zerk is bad (or a small chance of the inner wheel seal being bad).

I clean and pack trailer bearings before the first use every year. I've never used the ez lube feature except to fill the passage with grease to prevent rust.


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[TomK]

Floyd and Jared,
I am going to look into this further. I'll pull the bearings and inspect / re-pack them. If any doubt about their wear, or sign of excessive heat such as discoloration, I'll replace them. I'm going to buy and pack a spare set to carry in the trailer as well. A long road trip is not where I want to worry about bearings.

I'm not sure which axle I have, but the rubber EZ-Lube cover says "Dexter". Unless AL KO uses the Dexter caps; I'm assuming it's Dexter. Thanks for your replies.
Floyd, PM sent.

Tom

[Perry J]

If a shop did the bearing service I would go back and ask for an explanation.
Well serviced bearings should last for years.
John

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by TomK

Does anyone know what grease Scamp uses on their trailers? I was just there and forgot to ask. Their manual just states grease them. I had a wheel hub that was hot, but not excessively at the 200 mile mark. They say that is normal, just normal break-in. At the next 300 mile tow, it was too hot to keep my hand on. I want to give it an extra shot or two of grease.

Tom

When I had my axle changed at the Scamp factory a couple of years ago, they were using Lucas Red & Tacky #2 . They gave me a tube when I left for future greasing of the wheel bearings .If you know the manufacturer of your axle ,you can go to their website and find a list of recommended grease . .Dexter lists 8 or 9 different manufacturers of grease that are approved for their axles

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by The Minimalist

The hardening up of the grease may be the result of mixing greases.

Originally Posted by floyd

Just for clarity... it is not the additives which are incompatible, it is the base or primary thickener. Nearly all regular automotive grease today is lithium based, but you might find an old can lying around which has a soap base or a clay base, or maybe even a new special purpose grease which is "Molybdenum Disulfide" based.

Thanks, good info guys.

Originally Posted by floyd

Actually you should hand repack them after the first 500-1000 miles, then you can use the EZ Lube function between brake inspections.
Of course that would be a good time to do your first brake inspection/adjustment as well.

Originally Posted by Jared J

I've never used the ez lube feature except to fill the passage with grease to prevent rust.

Am I reading this right? The EZ-lube is not filled at the factory? Seems sort of strange, it would be the easiest way to grease the bearings on an assembly line. Does it not provide adequate lubrication?

2nd question. Are there any good threads or links that tell us how to do a brake inspection/adjusment?