Wheel bearings - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-06-2006, 07:22 AM   #15
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I knew I had a good reason for taking mine to the tire place to have it greased, but I forgot what it was. NOW I remember. Good luck on your wheel adventure.
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:46 AM   #16
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Myron,

I've always done it pretty much the way you describe. I don't have any of the "right tools" either. Keep tapping around the race from the inside, it will come out slowly. You could try heating the hub with a propane torch. That might loosen things just enough.

On the reinstall of the new race make sure everything is clean, apply a little grease and press straight in with a vice or something like that. I have used a large washer that just fits inside the hub to place over the race to protect it during pressing. (OK, I had to grind the washer down just a little bit) When the race and washer are flush with the hub add the largest socket you have on top of the washer and press the race home. Make sure the race is set to go in straight. As you know from the removal process there is little tolerance for waper-jawed insertion.

Patience is important, the bigger hammer may help; but the races are very hard and can be cracked. Be careful.

Good luck,

Dave and Diane
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Old 05-06-2006, 11:32 PM   #17
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Be VERY careful using a drift, chisel, screwdriver or any other steel tool to hammer the cup out of the hub -- If you manage to gouge the hub, you may not be able to ever seat cups properly again. Unless the cup is clearly bad, or the bearing cone is being replaced, there is no need to remove the cup.

Dexter sez this regarding removal of the cup (from the Service PDF); note they are using a BRASS drift:

When replacing the bearing cup proceed as follows:

1. Place the hub on a flat work surface with the cup to be
replaced on the bottom
side.

2. Using a brass drift punch,
carefully tap around the
small diameter end of the
cup to drive out.

3. After cleaning the hub bore
area, replace the cup by
tapping in with the brass
drift punch. Be sure the
cup is seated all the way
up against the retaining
shoulder in the hub.
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Old 05-06-2006, 11:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
I am stumped on how to remove the race, cone, cup, whatever.
1. Drive trailer to tire shop.
2. Go to the pub, golfing, or shopping for new socks.
3. Return to tire shop, pay a pitance (I think mine were like.. 30 bucks installed)
4. Drive trailer home with clean hands and clothes.



Thats how I do it.
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Old 05-07-2006, 03:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
1. Drive trailer to tire shop.
2. Go to the pub, golfing, or shopping for new socks.
3. Return to tire shop, pay a pitance (I think mine were like.. 30 bucks installed)
4. Drive trailer home with clean hands and clothes.



Thats how I do it.
YES! another DIYer on the same page as me. I'll wire, fiberglass, and just about anything else, but those wheels are someone else's territory.
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Old 05-07-2006, 07:30 AM   #20
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I do what Gina does and ditto what Jan said.
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Old 05-07-2006, 07:46 AM   #21
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The bearing hubs, or races, are clearly not bad, far as I can tell. I assume"bad" refers to uneven wear marks or cracks, etc. Mine look the same as the new ones supplied with my bearings kit.

In my search of previous posts on this subject the consensus seemed to be if you're replacing the bearings it is best to replace the races, regardless. I usually defer to the wisdom of consensus.

But, Pete, you changed my mind. The old races (cups) will remain in place. Like somebody's daddy once said, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

On to another race.
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Old 05-07-2006, 10:24 AM   #22
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I think it's time to repost an old favorite in the Jokes section...

off to THAT forum...

*ZOOOOOOOOOOMMMMM*
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Old 05-07-2006, 03:14 PM   #23
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Generally if you are changing the cones because the rollers are pitted, you also change the cups as they will probably be pitted also or about ready to be.....I believe it would be foolish to change half the bearing, especially since you usually but them in kits, unless you are doing it under an emergency situation, and will do it properly when you get where you're going....replacing the cups isn`t really a rocket science, just take care......Oh, also don`t use chisels or screw drivers!.....they have their different uses......Benny
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Old 05-07-2006, 05:43 PM   #24
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Benny's right! If you change any part of the bearing set, then you should change everything -- There may be a slight amount of matched wear between the cup and cone that you can't see. In fact, if you clean and reinstall the cones, you should be careful not to switch the inner for the outer (applies to the 13', where both bearings are the same; larger spindles generally have different bearing sets for inner and outer).

Bad bearing parts may show cracks, pits, or heat discoloration.
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Old 05-07-2006, 06:38 PM   #25
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^ What they said. NEVER, EVER replace one half of a matched set of bearing and race unless it is a roadside emergency - and even then, it's not that much work to replace the races at the same time. Even though the races may look OK, change them.

A brass rod works well as a drift pin but sometimes they can be stuck in there pretty good and I've had to resort to a steel punch (NOT a center punch!) to break the races loose because the brass wasn't strong enough. A big socket and a press work the best to reinstall the races, but if you are careful you can use the same brass drift to tap the new ones back in - the important thing is to make sure they are seated against the shoulder all the way around. It's not a bad idea to jack up the wheel and check to see if the bearings have loosened up any after a short trip.

It goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway - cleanliness counts when dealing with wheel bearings. Make sure you keep all the dirt and rust out of the grease. I've found that when servicing wheel bearings, an old cookie sheet that has been retired from the kitchen is perfect for holding the cap, cotter pin, nut, washer, and bearings. Set it off to one side so you don't get any flying debris where you don't want it. Cleans up easily for next time with a paper towel, too.
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Old 05-07-2006, 07:47 PM   #26
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Man oh, man, you guys got me spinning. First clockwise, then counterclockwise. OK OK. The (new) consensus rules! Out, damned race, even if you're American made and your replacement is Chinese.

By the way replacing only one of a matched set of two bearings on an axle was NEVER mentioned here or even ever considered.
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Old 05-07-2006, 08:19 PM   #27
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I think a bearing "set" in the context of this discussion has referred to the matched set of one outer race and one inner race/roller assembly.

If I had one bearing out of two in a hub showing signs of distress enough to mak me want to change it out I would advise going ahead and replacing the other bearing set as well, and this is why: The bearing that is beginning to go has more than likely already been shedding metal particles which have contaminated the grease and most likely have migrated over to the other bearing, where they have got a toehold on causing that one to fail, too.

Bearings, seals, and grease are cheap. A tow followed by new bearings, seals, grease, stub axles, and hubs installed at the going shop rate are not.

My two cents.....
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:47 PM   #28
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Amen! I`m done with this discussion because it has turned into a repititious scenario.....have a great evening.... Benny
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