Wheel bearings - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-08-2006, 10:00 AM   #29
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A trick I use for re-installing races is the following:

remove old race from hub,using a brass drift
carefully, using safety glasses and gloves cut a thin slice out of the race on its short edge
(a hand grinder with a cutting wheel works best)
use this to set the new race, with the large edge against the new race.
carefully tap the new race into place working around the race to be sure it is evenly seated
remove the old race.
because you have cut the slot, the race should just slide out, being just smaller now when squeezed into the hub

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Old 05-08-2006, 05:56 PM   #30
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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The bit of information which might be missing for those with less mechanical experience might be some tool name definition:
  • chisel = sharp edge, used to split or cut, should never get near a bearing race
  • punch = a long tool intended to be struck by a hammer on one end and apply some sort of force to something with the other end (maybe a bearing race)
  • pin punch = a punch with straight sides, used to move an object (such as a bearing race), not to cut or mark it
  • drift = a punch used to move an object (such as a bearing race), not to cut or mark it; the Wikipedia definition says that this applies to tapered tools, with the taper used to align holes in parts, which is what I call and alignment punch; the term is being used in this discussion in a manner equivalent to a pin punch
  • centre punch = conically pointed tool to make starting pit to guide drilling or other operation; never to be near a bearing
I use steel pin punches to remove bearing races (a job which I do as infrequently as I can, and only a handful of times in my life), but I know that I should use a brass tool, which is softer than the iron hub and therefore less likely to damage anything.

It is really difficult to tap a race in evenly. This should be done with a press, but a vice can be a usable substitute for those fortunately enough to have a vice that opens wide enough to get the hub between the jaws. I had not heard of Joe's technique before, so that covers my new thing to learn today...

1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
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Old 05-08-2006, 07:41 PM   #31
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Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
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I hope that anyone that is attempting to do their own bearings can at least identify those tools. If not:


We have a small brass hammer that we USED to use for bearings. I now take it to the trailer place and have then do it!
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:10 AM   #32
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Trailer: 19' Escape
Posts: 651
<div align="center">I have been adrift,
and lost all my bearings,
so I raced to Home Depot
for answers and caring.

O chisels galore,
were there in the store,
and all had their points
but for only to score
or cut, or to shatter
should I use one for this,
my project that mattered,
my project amiss.

Then whoa, I looked,
in the cellar so deep,
through the tools of my pa
where great secrets still creep.

I found a squared chisel
I knew would not slip.
I pounded it clockwise
and loosened the grip
of race number one,
then race number two, off
and finished the job
I once had no clue of.</div>
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:13 AM   #33
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Name: Bob (a.k.a. olegoat)
Trailer: 16' Casita SD
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Well Myron, if your shop/garage is well equipped, you`ll have a set of bearing drivers which are different diameter slugs used to drive bearings in or out, but if you don`t , like me, the best thing that I use is a brass shaft,(for want of a better word), and drive the bearing race out with it and a hammer....hit side face of the bearing in various different spots so that it `ll come out fairly straight.....you can use a steel drift punch also with at least a 1/4' shank, preferably larger dia. ....put the hub on something solid to gain maximum impact power from the hammer blows.....hope this works for you...good luck and don`t miss too often with the hammer or a very sore hand could ensue, ....oh, and don`t forget your safety glasses, new eyes are hard to get......Benny
Years of removing bearing races etc. have led me to conclude nothing is more efficient than a 10 0r 12 in piece of 1/2" cold roll shaft material. It is not tempered severely and does not tend to chip like cold chisel or brass drifts. To prevent dinged knuckles lock shaft in vise grips and hold them instead of shaft. R. Port
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Old 05-09-2006, 07:09 PM   #34
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Actually there is a difference between the way that I know what I should use to remove/ install bearings because of my trade my trade in life, till I retired, and to what I actually would use if need be....any piece of suitable cold roll shafting/round bar or whatever, 1/2" - 3/4" bolts about 4"-6" long or more, cheap sockets for small bearing, large thicker washers, you name it, as long as what I was using wasn`t hardened in any way that would chip and bury hard sharp metal shards an inch or two deep in your arms, or smaller pieces in your eyes, like someone said..."don`t ask how I know"...one reason that I can`t have an MRI scan, metal still there....stuff like this would happen, especially in a bind, and without proper tools on an unexpected job which had to be done yesterday! ....Of course in a shop with good facilities you`d use hydraulic presses, bearing splitters, torches, slide hammers, bearing drivers/ pullers,etc. .......the most important thing to remember is..."Wear Safety Glasses" .......its a kinda do as I say, not as I do thing!......Benny
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Old 05-12-2006, 10:51 PM   #35
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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Princess Auto has a bearing puller on sale this week for $14.99 CDN
descriiption here
Can be ordered online.
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Old 05-14-2006, 04:33 PM   #36
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Trailer: 19' Escape
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Nice deal, but nah. My new bearings and new races are now a done deal. Lookit dat nice new marine grease!
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Old 05-14-2006, 08:10 PM   #37
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Hi Myron, couple questions....are your bearings both same size for the axle? also do you have brakes on your trailer? ....Benny
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Old 05-15-2006, 07:54 AM   #38
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Yes, both bearings and races, front and back, are identical. When I first towed it home (a very agreeable tow) it was using no connection to brakes. Later discovered brake shoes are there on wheel, but wires were cut. I have not made a decision on what to do about that yet.
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Old 05-15-2006, 09:15 AM   #39
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Velly interesting, At first look I thought that you didn`t have brakes and appears that, if both inboard and out board bearings are the same size, that the hub was put on the axle the wrong way around because you can`t see if there is a drum or it it is just a hub without wheel studs....thanks for the insight.....my erroneous observation.....Benny
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:57 PM   #40
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Myron, if you decide to replace the magnets, you will probably find that an entire brake plate, with magnet, shoes and springs is about the same or even less expensive than the magnet alone and all you have to do is bolt it on.

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