Wheel bearings - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-04-2006, 09:11 PM   #1
Member
 
Trailer: 87 Scamp
Southern New Jersey
Posts: 66
The manuel for my 87 S13 lists the wheel bearings as L44643 which is for a 1'' spindle. Mine has 1- 1/16'' spindles which use L44649 bearings. Is this a heavier than normal axle.
__________________

__________________
JOE DRISSEL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2006, 07:57 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Roger H's Avatar
 
Name: Roger
Trailer: Y2K6 Born Free 32RQ on the Kodiak chassis, 1995 Coachmen 19' B-van and 1996 Precision 21' Sailboat
Iowa
Posts: 5,000
Joe,

If your axle is a Dexter, you can record the info off the plate on the axle and send it to Dexter. They can tell you the specs of that axle.

Scamp has progressively used heavier axles over the years, but I don't know specifically what axle yours may have under it. As a guess, it may be a Dexter #9 rubbered at either 1500 or 1800 lbs. I think (stress think here as it always gets me in trouble) that Scamp has gone to the #9 axle with a 2000 lb rating for the 13' in the late model trailers.

Roger
__________________

__________________
Roger H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2006, 08:55 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Pete Dumbleton's Avatar
 
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
Send a message via Yahoo to Pete Dumbleton
My 91S13 has 1 1/16" spindles and uses the same bearing on both inner and outer.

I just discovered two years ago that the CONE (the part in the hub that the bearing rides in) for a 1" and a 1 1/16" bearing set are the same; only the bearings matching the spindle diameters will be different. Check the numbers on the two sets at Wally or at parts store. The hubs are apparently also identical.

It's possible that early Bolers, Scamps and Casitas used a 1" spindle on the 13', but I really don't know.
__________________
Pete Dumbleton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2006, 12:26 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
Pete, you and I went to different schools I guess....I learned that the bearing, which is the cone containing the rollers, runs in a cup which is pressed into the hub....Benny
__________________
Benny K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2006, 09:35 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Pete Dumbleton's Avatar
 
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
Send a message via Yahoo to Pete Dumbleton
That's why I described where the part fit -- I have gone to different bearing sites and seen differing nomenclature -- I originally called the Cone a Cup, but the Dexter stuf called it a Cone, so that's what I wrote.

A typical Scamp bearing has four kinds of parts, but they seem to have at least five names:

Cone
Cup
--Cage
--Rollers
--Race

Here's an extract from a Dexter PDF for the #9 axle:

Item Part No. Description
1 010-009-00 Grease Seal
1A 010-060-00 Grease Seal for E-Z Lube™
2 031-031-02 L44649 Inner Bearing Cone
3 031-031-01 L44610 Inner Bearing Cup
4 031-031-01 L44610 Outer Bearing Cup
5 031-031-02 L44649 Outer Bearing Cone
6 006-176-00 Spindle Nut 12 castellation
6A 006-001-00 Spindle Nut - E-Z Lube™ only 6 c

Referring to the picture in the PDF, the cup is the bearing assembly with the rollers and the cone goes into the hub.

Pete
__________________
Pete Dumbleton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2006, 10:51 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Just so everyone's on the same page (literally), the exploded view of "440 and 545 Hub Group" parts from Dexter is on the 5th page (but labeled page "- 15 -" because it is page 15 of the complete catalog) of the Dexter 1000-2200 lb axle product information . I assume that this is the right set, judging from the part numbers, but I'm not familiar with Scamp history. The Dexter Complete Catalog Index identifies Torflex Model #9 as the 1000-2200 lb capacity version, which makes sense for a 13' Scamp.

In this Dexter document, "inner" refers to the inboard (towards the frame) bearing and "outer" refers to the outboard (towards the end of the spindle) bearing. They appear to include the rollers (and the cage which holds them together) with the cone (#2 and #5, both L44649); they must be trapped together, which is not typically true of automotive bearings.

Sorry Pete, I'm with Benny on this one:
  • cones
    • bearing races in which the rollers run on the outside of the tapered surface
    • inside or smaller diameter race of the bearing
    • mounted on the spindle, placing them on the ends of the assembly, bearing surfaces facing inward
    • complete with rollers and cages in Dexter bearings
    • e.g. Dexter 031-031-02, a.k.a. L44649
  • cups
    • bearing races in which the rollers run on the tapered inside surface
    • outer or larger diameter race of the bearing
    • mounted in the hub, in the middle of the assembly, bearing surfaces facing outward
    • e.g. Dexter 031-031-01, a.k.a. L44610
By the way, I find this use of the same size of bearing for both inboard and outboard bearing strange; I would expect the outboard to be smaller, as shown in Dexter's E-Z Lube System drawing, and apparently as used in larger Dexter axles.

Joe, a version of the Dexter complete catalog which I downloaded last year (not quite the same as the current one) has a bearing replacement chart, and the L44643 isn't shown for any size, so my guess is that Dexter changed from a 1" outer (or both) bearing to 1-1/16" by the time your 1987 Scamp was built, but Scamp had not yet changed their manual. Even the 600-1000 lb Dexter axles now use the same L44649/L44610 bearings.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2006, 09:11 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 725
One little "tip" is when you get this all sorted out and your new bearings installed, don't throw the old ones away.

Instead, clean them up, repack them with grease and seal them up in a plastic baggy along with cottter keys or whatever else needed to do the job. Store them in some out-of-the-way spot in your trailer and remember where they are. Some eventful day they may just save the day, your pocket book and composure.
__________________
Loren G. Hedahl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2006, 10:57 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
I`d buy 3 sets of bearings and put a new set away....if you`re going to change a bearing on the road, it may as well be a new one, for the amount of work involved and the price....Benny
__________________
Benny K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2006, 11:06 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Trailer: Love Bug / Chevy Astro
Posts: 216

I go one step farther than carrying an extra set of bearings. I carry a complete hub with greased bearings, cotter key, axle nut and dust cap. I had a hub break on one of our trips a few years ago and was lucky to find a shop that gave me a deal on a new one for ONLY $95. The guy acted like he was doing me a favor at that price.

When I replaced the axle on my Love Bug, it came with new hubs so now I just carry a spare hub all ready to go.
__________________
Bob Cupp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2006, 11:30 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Pete Dumbleton's Avatar
 
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
Send a message via Yahoo to Pete Dumbleton
I stand corrected I read the Dexter diagram incorrectly -- The cone goes in the cup.

For those who have the 1 1/16" bearings, where the two bearing sets are the same, it is important when cleaning used bearings to keep the original cup/cone sets together as they will be worn to fit each other.

I carry a complete set of bearings, seals, nuts, washers, grease cap, etc., so that even if I have to have them fixed at a garage, I don't have to wait a couple of days for parts.
__________________
Pete Dumbleton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 08:13 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Myron Leski's Avatar
 
Name: Myron
Trailer: 19' Escape
NM
Posts: 664
Registry
I am stumped on how to remove the race, cone, cup, whatever. OK, the package with new bearings I bought calls it a "race". So race is my problem. I removed both bearings but can't seem to tap out the race. Anyone have a tip on tapping this, please?

I can't tell what brand this axle is, if that's needed. What looks like a data plate is long-gone-corroded. Brought the big "hub" (?) to Trailerama and the guy picked out the right size replacement bearings kit for me. He said, "Just tap out the race." Yeah, well.....
__________________
Myron Leski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 08:26 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Trailer: Love Bug / Chevy Astro
Posts: 216

Remember that to remove the race, you have to work from the inside of the hub. You put the drift (tool for pounding on an item without damaging the item) through the hole in the hub and push the pieces out, not in. I saw a guy beating on a hub and he was trying to push the races through the hub, not out of it.
__________________
Bob Cupp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 08:33 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Myron Leski's Avatar
 
Name: Myron
Trailer: 19' Escape
NM
Posts: 664
Registry
Right. I understand that. But what is a drift tool? My attempts have been with a cold chisel and ball peen hammer, tapping from the opposite side in, but have failed to make it budge.
__________________
Myron Leski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 11:21 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
Well Myron, if your shop/garage is well equipped, you`ll have a set of bearing drivers which are different diameter slugs used to drive bearings in or out, but if you don`t , like me, the best thing that I use is a brass shaft,(for want of a better word), and drive the bearing race out with it and a hammer....hit side face of the bearing in various different spots so that it `ll come out fairly straight.....you can use a steel drift punch also with at least a 1/4' shank, preferably larger dia. ....put the hub on something solid to gain maximum impact power from the hammer blows.....hope this works for you...good luck and don`t miss too often with the hammer or a very sore hand could ensue, ....oh, and don`t forget your safety glasses, new eyes are hard to get......Benny
__________________

__________________
Benny K is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
wheel bearings thomas kaz Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 6 06-15-2009 11:53 PM
Wheel bearings Glenn Baglo Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 5 10-08-2008 08:13 PM
Wheel bearings. Legacy Posts Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 22 02-23-2003 05:18 PM
Wheel Bearings. General Chat 0 12-31-1969 07:00 PM
Wheel Bearings General Chat 0 12-31-1969 07:00 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.