Winter Storage - in very wet climate - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-16-2006, 09:36 PM   #29
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These Peltier (pel tee a) dehumidifiers I think would loose a lot of efficiency when the air temperature is in below 50. If you look at the specifications all talk about water removal at 80 F. or above. I've been trying to find charts that describe what happens at lower temperatures. No luck so far.

I understand Peltiers, I use them all the time. Therefore you can call this and educated guess about how these inexpensive dehumidifiers work.

Probably an unregulated power source to the Peltier, which means that the plate temperature varies with line power voltage. The cooling plate temperature is probably close to 40F plus or minus 5. What this means that if the dew point is at or above the plate temperature then the moisture in the air will condense on the cooling plate then trip to catch bucket. If the dew point is below the plate temperature no collection will occur. Dew point is at air temperature when the relative humidity is 100%, otherwise it's below air temperature.

All the technical jargon means they might not work so good if you don't heat your trailer.
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:52 PM   #30
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Good technical detail, Bryon.

I noticed that the WindChaser's heat pump is a Peltier junction, which is an interesting choice that has some appealing features. While I'm not minimizing the importance of the device's behaviour changes with temperature and power supply voltage, the point about the dew point versus the ambient temperature applies regardless of the heat pump choice - the usual compressor-driven refrigerant system faces exactly the same situation, which can lead to problems such as no moisture extraction, or the frost which I mentioned earlier.

These problems are why I don't use a dehumidifier over winter in my trailer, but that WindChaser is so small (and should be so quiet) that it might be good for us while camping in spring and fall for damp and cool days. In that case it could sit in the sink and drain there; over winter for me the sink would not be a suitable destination for water even if the trailer were heated (since the greywater tank is in freezing conditions under the trailer).
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Old 11-17-2006, 01:22 PM   #31
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Any dehumidifier that uses a cooling element to condense moisture is subject to the same laws of physics.

I do have a concern about using a condensing type in a trailer stored for the winter. Since I'm not sure what the temperature of the cooling element is, I can only guess. My guess is that the cooling element is above freezing by a few degrees. Therefore when the air temperature gets below the cooling element temperature no drying action occurs. If at the same time the RH increases and then air temperature goes below freezing ice will form on all surfaces that have cooled to below freezing. When things warm back up is when you get the moisture problem. I don't know if a cooling dehumidifier could keep up with the thaw or a chemical dehumidifier for that matter.

I've asked Dri-Z-Air about their chemical dehumifier at colder temperatures.

I don't plan on letting my trailer get below freezing inside.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:37 PM   #32
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well all this 'tech' stuff about running one of these has got me confussed now..... To buy or not to buy???
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Old 11-17-2006, 04:33 PM   #33
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I got a response from Dri-Z-Air. Here it is.

Thank you for your inquiry concerning DRI-Z-AIR.

DRI-Z-AIR is chemical dehumidifier that uses calcium chloride to collect moisture.

It is very effective at collecting moisture where the humidity is 100%. The cooler temperatures do not affect it as it will not freeze.
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:14 PM   #34
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I use the Dri-A-Air too. Really works well.

I tried the light bulb that this discussion started with. I used a regular 60 watt bulb with a trouble light hanging through the roof vent. It was used for 1 month and was definitely better than nothing. A 100 watt one may have worked better. No real warmth but just enough to keep most the moisture off the ensolite. I think it may have worked better in a drier climate (Oregon, say).

In the end I went with a small thermostat controlled ceramic heater. It has the "knock over" protection too. A Calore CH110 rated at 5200 btus (max) and 1500 watts (max). Its just a little guy.

Seems to be working well. I had it running for about 2 minutes and it made a huge difference in the temperature in there. I am playing with the thermostat to come up with a steady temperature. Just trying to keep it at a level the heater is not running constant and with enough warmth to keep out the moisture. Can anyone sugest a temperature?

We'll see.....
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:14 PM   #35
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Hi: I used a couple of pans of good old Charcoal (not Briquetes) and crack open the roof vent and the small window just a tad...The only moisture getting through is the roof rivets and the corner of the vent window...Today I started to replace the rivets with S/S pan head bolts nylon& S/S washers and acorn nuts...Did the upper kitchy cabinet and it looks great...Hope it seals out the rain...and boy have we had rain Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 01-05-2007, 02:05 PM   #36
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Ya, I did the stainless upgrade they look really nice.

I have to solve a belly band leak ut that will have to wait until spring. For now my cover is keeping out the rain and I have everything slightly cracked to let the air through.
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Old 01-13-2007, 12:15 PM   #37
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so far the heater is great at 55-60 degrees
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