winterizing - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-12-2014, 06:09 PM   #15
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Name: John
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Parkliner Hot Water

This is my first winter with an RV and I will winterize it in a couple of weeks. I've drained the water tank and the refuse tank and thought I had the hot water tank figured out by opening both valves at the base of the tank but it won't drain. I know there is water still in the tank because you can hear it sloshing when you walk on the starboard side as the trailer is driven slowly. What am I not doing?
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:08 PM   #16
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Remove the anode rod (bottom center) from the water heater. This will require a 1 1/16" socket and is easier if you use an impact driver. Then duct tape a piece of 1/2" plastic tubing to the end of a wet/dry shop vac hose and insert through the anode rod hole to suck out the remaining water. I leave the anode rod out until spring and stuff the hole with copper wool to keep the critters out. Re-install in the spring with Teflon tape if the rod is still in good shape, otherwise order a new one. I think they are around $14 or so on the big A. YMMV.
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Old 10-12-2014, 11:02 PM   #17
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Name: Darral
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Both of you own Parkliners so maybe they come with anode rods? Our Scamp's Atwood is just gas (until I added the HottRod). Plus, it's an aluminum tank and does not need an anode rod. Otherwise, it's simply a drain plug that needs to be removed to drain the water. IF it's an anode rod, instead of steel wool, you can get nylon plugs from most local hardware stores- ours is TSC- Tractor Supply Company. My Atwood came with a nylon drain plug.

He also speaks of 2 valves so I'm not 100% sure what he has. Maybe a pic and/or brand would help.
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY View Post
Remove the anode rod (bottom center) from the water heater. This will require a 1 1/16" socket and is easier if you use an impact driver. Then duct tape a piece of 1/2" plastic tubing to the end of a wet/dry shop vac hose and insert through the anode rod hole to suck out the remaining water. I leave the anode rod out until spring and stuff the hole with copper wool to keep the critters out. Re-install in the spring with Teflon tape if the rod is still in good shape, otherwise order a new one. I think they are around $14 or so on the big A. YMMV.

Brian you must have a Suburban hot water tank?

If the Scamp has an Atwood heater (most do) it does not have or need an anode rod. Atwood uses an aluminum tank instead of steel, so no anode rod needed.

To drain simple release the pressure value on the outside heater hatch and remove the drain plug. Also highly recommend purchasing a hot water heater rinser for the end of your hose to get it out. Otherwise a lot of sediment stays in the bottom of the tank resulting in it rusting out faster than it will if kept clean.
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:49 AM   #19
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Brian you must have a Suburban hot water tank?
Yes Carol, it's a Suburban. Unfortunately, that's the only way I've found to get the remaining water and sediment out of the water heater. I plug the hole loosely with copper wool to not only keep the critters out but also to allow air to (hopefully) circulate. At least it makes me feel better.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:48 PM   #20
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You can also use a hand siphon to remove the remaining water. I've done that on my Atwood.

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Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY View Post
Yes Carol, it's a Suburban. Unfortunately, that's the only way I've found to get the remaining water and sediment out of the water heater. I plug the hole loosely with copper wool to not only keep the critters out but also to allow air to (hopefully) circulate. At least it makes me feel better.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:36 PM   #21
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You can also use a hand siphon to remove the remaining water. I've done that on my Atwood.
Well I am not sure that the little remaining water that is in the tank is a big issue as there is still a lot of room for expansion should it freeze, although I normally leave the drain plug out for the winter as well... never know
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:12 PM   #22
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We think alot alike Carol . I've only "siphoned" to check for the "sediment" to which none was present. Not sure that works either but as Brian states- makes me feel better. No sediment came out.

You're definitely right and I mentioned this in a previous winterizing post, that a little water left in the wh tanks wont hurt if it freezes. It's water under pressure or contained in small areas- like the pumps, traps etc- that can cause damage.

Just to reiterate, Atwood has alum tanks to which wont "rust". In fact, if you read up on it from Atwood, they dont even recommend an "anode rod" be used. Steel tanks are a different story.

I still remove my HottRod (add-on electric heat unit) before leaving the campground and drain my wh just to keep from hauling around 50lbs extra lbs of water. This helps keep a watch on my HottRod anode and I can keep it cleaned off- calcium build-up or what have you. That's where the nylon plugs come in handy.

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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Well I am not sure that the little remaining water that is in the tank is a big issue as there is still a lot of room for expansion should it freeze, although I normally leave the drain plug out for the winter as well... never know
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