winterizing - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-30-2014, 01:27 PM   #1
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Name: Pat
Trailer: Parkliner
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winterizing

So my next question is….If you drain all the water out of your trailer do you still need to winterize it? Sorry, I am so trying to figure out how and when to winterize. My question comes from trying to go on a couple of trips before I winterize her and am wondering if she has no water in the system will there be a real big hurry to winterize. Thank you everyone for all your help
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:09 PM   #2
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Trailer: 2015 Scamp 13 Front Washroom, Little Guy Teardrop
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Well it does get cold in Michigan.. If you have a water pump it will have water in it which will freeze and possibly/probably damage it

Sent from my XT1028 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:58 PM   #3
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Do not forget the P traps in sinks and floor drains - pour some anti freeze into them.
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:05 PM   #4
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OK I didn't think about that, thanks….
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:09 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Pat in Michigan View Post
So my next question is….If you drain all the water out of your trailer do you still need to winterize it? Sorry, I am so trying to figure out how and when to winterize. My question comes from trying to go on a couple of trips before I winterize her and am wondering if she has no water in the system will there be a real big hurry to winterize. Thank you everyone for all your help
Maybe it is just semantics, but to me, the process of draining the fresh, grey and black water tanks, draining the hotwater tank, blowing water out of all of the freshwater lines with compressed air, and adding antifreeze to the sink and shower drains is "winterizing". There is no reason why you cannot continue to go dry camping with your camper after the winterizing process is done.
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:22 AM   #6
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I've looked at the Parkliner dvd on winterizing and think I have it down but, want to take a couple more trips before I go through it. I was thinking ahead though to spring and the process of getting the anti-freeze our of the system for drinking and coffee...Guessing just connecting a hose a running lots of water through the system and maybe some bleach?
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:21 AM   #7
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Name: Eddie
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Most of the fiberglass trailers have gravity toilets and the only freeze issue with them are the water input lines and valves. The Parkliner uses a macerator toilet, you have to pump antifreeze through the toilet to winterize the macerator pump, choppers and lines. You really don't want to have a crack in the macerator pump or discharge lines. The macerator toilets are very expensive and cost at least twice as much as other marine toilets, so you really want to take care of them.
You have the same issue with shower drains that have a pump assist as found in other trailers. The antifreeze not only keeps these pumps from freezing it lubes the impellers.

Eddie
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Old 10-07-2014, 10:22 AM   #8
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Name: Darral
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Tennessee
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I own a 13' 2010 Scamp and here's how I've successfully winterized for the past 4 winters:

First, I make sure the water heater is drained AND bypassed! If not, you can waste ALOT of antifreeze here.

Next, I "blow" my lines out (BE CAREFUL WITH THE AIR PRESSURE! I never go over 40lbs air pressure) then pour 1 gal of RV antifreeze in my water tank (that's been thoroughly drained!). I use my 12v pump to pump it FIRST to the bathroom sink/shower head and commode. This will protect not only those bathroom fixtures but also run into the drain, through the drain pump and hold in the traps. It will also help protect the outside sewage drain valve area. Then I go to the galley sink and repeat.

I give credit to Floyd for this idea, but at the sinks, I open the "hot water" valves, put my finger over the faucet, turn on the cold water valve and it will force antifreeze back up the hot water line into the water heater! Neat trick and it works. I do it in the bath just to make sure the hot water line has been cleared and treated with antifreeze.

Finally, before I'm completely done, I will go outside and press on the "pin" located in the city water fill inlet. This releases the line pressure and in the process will shoot out the water that's in it and usually a small amount of antifreeze will make its way out as well.

This may be overkill for many, but I've never had to replace water system parts that have been damaged by freezing during the winter. I also try to use the "Good to -50 F" antifreeze.

I agree, you can camp with it "winterized", but I personally would NOT go into "freezing" temps below 30 Deg F without my complete winterization process. That's just my opinion.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:13 AM   #9
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Name: Pat
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I have not used my water heater yet does that mean I shouldn't have water in there or would it automatically fill when I put water in the tank? Thanks everyone for the information.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:19 AM   #10
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I have not used my water heater yet does that mean I shouldn't have water in there or would it automatically fill when I put water in the tank? Thanks everyone for the information.
For safety sake, don't assume anything. I would think you'd have water in the lines and some in each tank if the manufacturer tested the system before you took delivery. I know my Escape was "tested." Those that are winterized have a green tag hanging in the kitchen that says "winterized." YMMV
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:50 AM   #11
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Name: Huck
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I have not used my water heater yet does that mean I shouldn't have water in there or would it automatically fill when I put water in the tank? Thanks everyone for the information.
There is a bypass for the water heater on the Parkliner. So it depends on if water has ever been routed into the water heater. As Donna D suggested, assume it has.

Something the Parkliner video doesn't cover is removing the water heater anode.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:11 AM   #12
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Name: Darral
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Here's my Scamp's Atwood water heater setup. IF the Bypass valve is in the "Bypass" position (mine is on this pic), it pretty much keeps water out. But if it was on when you run the fresh water tank pump or hook it to city, some water will get into the water heater just from the system building up pressure.

You cant get ALL the water out of the bottom of your water tank when it's drained unless it's siphoned. But it wont hurt anything if it freezes because there's plenty of room for expansion. Not true for water in the lines and pump (AND wh) when they're full!

You say you havent used the water heater yet.....one CAUTION! Someway, set you a reminder to FILL the water heater BEFORE turning on the gas or electric unit to it!! If not, you can do permanent damage to the tank. If it's electric, it can burn the unit out in minutes or SECONDS even!

Another tip, when you drain the water heater, be sure to open the "pressure relief" valve located in the same exterior bay of your wh as your drain. It will drain MUCH faster this way.

Hope this might help a little. Feel free to ask more questions.
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Atwood WH Valve.JPG  
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Old 10-09-2014, 02:36 PM   #13
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So here's another question related to winterizing. I've drained the water heater. I have blown air through all of the water lines. I used the Camco Winterizing Kit (by passing the water heater) to push antifreeze through the lines. As I was "wicking" the bottom of the water heater prior to putting on the winter cover, I was surprised to find "pinkish" water coming from the bottom of the WH. How could antifreeze (a little - not a lot) get in there? What am I missing?
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Old 10-09-2014, 03:28 PM   #14
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Name: Darral
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Look back on my photo and notice the lines in and out of my water heater. Look at yours and see if there's actual "pink" antifreeze in the line(s). If so, that will give you an idea from which direction it came. Did you possibly use my suggestion by pushing antifreeze back up into the hot water side of the faucet by holding your finger over the faucet while turning on the hot water side? This definitely allows some antifreeze to "back flow" into the water heater which wont hurt anything.

Otherwise, you could have had some seepage through the bypass valve if it's not closing/sealing properly. Again, it wont hurt the water heater.

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So here's another question related to winterizing. I've drained the water heater. I have blown air through all of the water lines. I used the Camco Winterizing Kit (by passing the water heater) to push antifreeze through the lines. As I was "wicking" the bottom of the water heater prior to putting on the winter cover, I was surprised to find "pinkish" water coming from the bottom of the WH. How could antifreeze (a little - not a lot) get in there? What am I missing?
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