Winterizing - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-22-2017, 03:12 PM   #1
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Name: Chuck
Trailer: 2015 SCAMP Sixteen-Footer
Michigan
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Winterizing

Folks always seem to be looking for this around this time of year!

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Old 10-23-2017, 11:44 AM   #2
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Name: Francois
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possible flaw....

that video would not work for me.....I don't have access to my fresh tank. It is underslung. Given the shape of the tank I can't be sure that when the pump runs dry there is not a certain amount of water left in the tank. If I poured the AF directly in the tank there very well may be residual amount of AF left in that tank that would take dozens of flushes in the spring to get rid of it all...and that might just be wishful thinking!!

The video is from Scamp with it's tank under a seat somewhere.

I suspect that BF supplies a winterizing pick-up tube and isolation valves because of all the above.
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Old 10-23-2017, 03:54 PM   #3
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Name: Catherine
Trailer: Scamp 16
Colorado
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draining hot water heater tank

I have been unable to remove the white plastic plug/drain from the hot water tank. The video says it is 7/8" socket, but that is too small. Interestingly the owners manual states a 1 1/16 socket, which is far too big. Scamp parts dept said to 'just use a crescent wrench' which doesn't work either.
Anyone else have this issue? The trailer is a 16' 2017 Scamp.

thanks, Catherine
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Old 10-23-2017, 10:00 PM   #4
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Name: Francois
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channel locks....

otherwise referred to as "water pump pliers" (dunno why) work for me....the narrower the jaws the better...good luck
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:03 AM   #5
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outwiththedogs View Post
I have been unable to remove the white plastic plug/drain from the hot water tank. The video says it is 7/8" socket, but that is too small. Interestingly the owners manual states a 1 1/16 socket, which is far too big. Scamp parts dept said to 'just use a crescent wrench' which doesn't work either.
Anyone else have this issue? The trailer is a 16' 2017 Scamp.

thanks, Catherine
Better than knowing its a 16' 2017 Scamp, would be knowing what make and model the water heater is. My 16' 2015 Scamp 16 Std uses an Atwood model and the drain plug requires a 15/16 inch socket wrench.

Note that the plug is plastic and quite tight. Go slow. If you have used the wrong sized tool on it then you might have stripped the head of the drain plug, in which case channel locks or vice grip pliers might work, but its a tight space to work in. I would get a few extra drain plugs and replace them anytime there is any wear or damage at all on the plug, before it gets to the point that it is hard to remove.

Or just do as I do. forget about the water heater. Heat water in a tea kettle on the stove for washing dishes, and use showers in campgrounds, truck stops, etc.
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:35 AM   #6
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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If the plug is hard to get a wrench or pliers on, a basin wrench might work
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:53 AM   #7
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Name: John Michael
Trailer: Scamp 13
Madison, Wisconsin
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On my previous Scamp I replaced the water heater's drain plug with a valve. Worked great. Its on my to-do list on my current Scamp. This one might work, though I used a higher flow ball valve from the local hardware store. I think I remember having to hack-saw the handle down a bit to fit the confined space.

Floyd reminded me to remind you that using teflon tape is a good idea when joining dissimilar metals, in this case brass and aluminum though I think it was iron to aluminum in my long ago Scamp. That's probably why these tanks ship with plastic plugs. Thanks Floyd.
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:59 AM   #8
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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I just winterized my Scamp. 1 gal of RV antifreeze is all I've ever needed/used on my 13' with bath/shower.

Also, I always drain my Atwood water heater. I dont even travel with it full of water. That's just nearly 50 lbs of unnecessary weight to haul around. Plus, I now use a "Hottrod" water heater unit that screws into the same hole.

Not sure about the nylon being stuck unless it has been in there a long time. Here's a tip that MAY help. Use the nylon tape on the plug that isused on pipe fittings. It works and it's NO problem to loosen when you get ready to take it out. I've used this method for 7 yrs of ownership with NO problems what so ever. Just make sure you look and retrieve any leftover tape out of the threaded hole once the plug is removed. If it's draining, it will more than likely wash out.

[QUOTE=charleeb;668440]Folks always seem to be looking for this around this time of year!
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:20 AM   #9
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Name: Francois
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forget water heater???

"Or just do as I do. forget about the water heater. Heat water in a tea kettle on the stove for washing dishes, and use showers in campgrounds, truck stops, etc"

Is that stove wood or coal burning ?
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:56 AM   #10
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
"Or just do as I do. forget about the water heater. Heat water in a tea kettle on the stove for washing dishes, and use showers in campgrounds, truck stops, etc"

Is that stove wood or coal burning ?
Its propane of course.. I don't understand the similes.

I'm just pointing out that IMHO the water heater is way more trouble then it is worth (of course YMMV). Keeping it simple means less work, less expense, less trouble and in this case also less wasted water since with the on-board water heater you have to run some water to get the hot water through the pipes. Heat water on the stove and there should be no waste.

I wake in the morning, heat a little water on the stove, pour it into a basin, then wash my face with it. Then take the basin and use the same water to flush the commode. A little water goes a long way.
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:40 AM   #11
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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I have the "Hotrod" electric element that Darral has. John has an interesting idea with the valve, but I prefer the larger hole when I pull the Hotrod out so I can stick the flush tool in and rinse out any debris that may be in the water heater. Our Casita does not have the water heater bypass valve.
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:54 AM   #12
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Name: Darral
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I do too Bob. I wasnt going to post the link, but since you mentioned the hole-size, I want you to look at my setup and see what I did. This is why I was suggesting "nylon tape"...yes even on the nylon bushings! I can literally hand-tighten my Hottrod and it will not leak with the tape on it.

BUT, I do have a special tool I made for removing/installing both the Hottrod AND nylon plugs that works SUPER! You may have to scroll down to see it as I detail all of the HOttrod's installation. But the special aluminum tool I designed and machined is at the bottom of the pics. I've never had to use pliers or anything else.

I'll go ahead and explain one quick thing you will see in these pics... I show 2 different bronze bushings that comes with the HR. I used neither and opted instead for a nylon bushing. Another plus or major "upside" to this installation is, with me draining my waterheater as often as I do, this nylon will not wear out the alum. threads in the Atwood. After about 4 yrs usage, I replaced the nylon bushing out for the first time before our last trip about 1 month ago. Not bad!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57648895548394

Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
I have the "Hotrod" electric element that Darral has. John has an interesting idea with the valve, but I prefer the larger hole when I pull the Hotrod out so I can stick the flush tool in and rinse out any debris that may be in the water heater. Our Casita does not have the water heater bypass valve.
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Old 10-24-2017, 10:54 AM   #13
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Name: Francois
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the smiles....

either way, you're burning propane...you could go "simpler" still by building a campfire and boiling water on that

I do know what you're talking about...for twenty years I cruised on small boats....I boiled my fair share of water on the stove for everything...including to add to the solar shower bag to shower up on deck! Don't get much simpler than that.

"wasted" water is not an issue for me. I live in the rainforest and water is pretty well everywhere

A propane bottle lasts me a LONG time as it is....if I wanted to use even less I could go out and shut the heater off BEFORE showering....but I like to keep things "simple" and avoid "trouble" so I don't bother...

to me walking across a campground to a shower house or a parking lot at a truck stop is "complicated" and a lot of "trouble"....when my shower is right there in my trailer... it's clean...ready to go with no surprises/dissapointments


one of those "hot rods" is in my future... I sort of prewired for one when I ditched my converter (a duplex recepticle on it's own breaker....always in the "on" position, every time I plug in at a campground the charger will come on as well as the water heater.... for storage at home I'll pull the water heater plug under the left dinette seat

I like the shower in my trailer so much...I added HEAT to it ! (it can get cold in the rainforest!) The older I get, the more I like my "comforts"
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bath9b.jpg   bath5.jpg  

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Old 10-24-2017, 11:02 AM   #14
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Name: Francois
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nice install Darral

certainly covered all the "bases"...nice you had the room for a separate breaker too....well done
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