Winterizing Question - Parkliner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-18-2014, 11:36 AM   #1
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I was just watching the Parkliner DVD and I don't understand something Chandler said. Plus my DVD self destructed and is no longer readable.

ETA: I deleted my question. Once I started winterizing, it was obvious. I had to close the cold so I could get antifreeze to the toilet and drain. The hot didn't need to be closed because the water had been drained from it and the hot water tank had also been drained.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:57 PM   #2
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I wish I had read you original question Huck. I need to put a low water drain in over by the water heater. I have a drain now for the freshwater tank, but wonder if I should remove the pump over winter? I have to get at this stuff, as freezing weather is rapidly approaching! I've only winterized trailers twice, one an old Sunline, then 006 last year, and really don't remember much!

Are those wonderful folks at the factory sending you another DVD?

Frank
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:32 PM   #3
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Are those wonderful folks at the factory sending you another DVD?

Frank
I'd rather just have someone put in on youtube.
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:37 PM   #4
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I would do that if I could Huck, but we have like the slowest internet speed in the country, living out in the boonies like we do. I could make a copy of mine (if I can find it) and send it to ya.

Frank
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:38 PM   #5
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I would do that if I could Huck, but we have like the slowest internet speed in the country, living out in the boonies like we do. I could make a copy of mine (if I can find it) and send it to ya.

Frank
Thanks, but I'm good. I got almost all the way through the winterizing part before I started having read problems. I just think it would be good PR move for Parkliner to put a copy on youtube.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:11 PM   #6
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I have watched my video and am still puzzled. I am taking her this weekend and then plan to winterize her after that. My first time to do anything like this, I sure hope I can figure it out….
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:35 PM   #7
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Talking Rely on good old FGRV

If you need to know how to winterize, go here:

The Fiberglass RV Community
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Old 10-21-2014, 09:39 PM   #8
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Thanks Roger
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Old 10-30-2014, 12:44 PM   #9
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Roger (Others).
Having drained hot water tank and fresh water tank, I used an old air compressor to blow out the lines from the city water inlet. I shut off the input valve to hot water tank. I observed moisture exiting the cold faucet and shower. I pumped antifreeze into the input line until it exited the cold faucet and shower. Put antifreeze into tank and pumped it into sink and shower cold lines. Used shower pump to exhaust the drain and poured antifreeze into traps.

I do not understand how the hot water line to the shower has been treated. Have I missed something?

David


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Old 10-30-2014, 02:19 PM   #10
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I should add that I have a 2013 Scamp 16' with shower & toilet in the front. I have read the references post. I have but one bypass to the hot water, not an output one (that I know of).
I have read the post about covering the faucet (shower) end with the hot valve open and opening the cold valve while pumping antifreeze from tank. That would seem to handle my question about the hot line to the shower.

Do I have it right?


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Old 10-30-2014, 05:38 PM   #11
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Roger (Others).
Having drained hot water tank and fresh water tank, I used an old air compressor to blow out the lines from the city water inlet. I shut off the input valve to hot water tank. I observed moisture exiting the cold faucet and shower. I pumped antifreeze into the input line until it exited the cold faucet and shower. Put antifreeze into tank and pumped it into sink and shower cold lines. Used shower pump to exhaust the drain and poured antifreeze into traps.

I do not understand how the hot water line to the shower has been treated. Have I missed something?

David
Sironi
When I did my parkliner, I initially had the same question. So I just stepped back and thought about what I had done. First, I drained the hot water tank, fresh water tank, and water pipes. So that means the hot water side - pipes and tank - should be OK as there is no water in them now. You went a step farther and blew the hot water tank out. You're done with the hot water side unless you have an anode rod that needs to be removed.

The cold water side is then closed so you can run antifreeze through it to get to the toilet and drain. The hot water side is bypassed. No water in it anymore so no need for antifreeze.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:02 PM   #12
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Winterizing Question - Parkliner

Huck,
Thanks for sharing. Assuming that I did clear the hot lines (I may re-do it), do I fill the cold lines with antifreeze only for the purpose of treating the pump, since I do not have a separate antifreeze input to the pump?

I know that draining the hot water tank with open hot faucet and shower valves will only drain it to the height of the drain plug on the heater tank. In this case I am relying on the compressed air to have removed the water from the hot line. Actually, I all the water needn't be removed, because a little ice will not expand the hose, but this condition is undetectable in theses hidden lines.


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Old 10-31-2014, 06:11 PM   #13
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Exclamation Blowing out water lines

Please be careful that you don't use an air compressor that uses oil to lubricate. You could end up with oil in your water lines.
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Old 10-31-2014, 07:25 PM   #14
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Please be careful that you don't use an air compressor that uses oil to lubricate. You could end up with oil in your water lines.

Highly unlikely if compressor is in good condition and/or has oil seperator installed. Even if oil did get into water lines from an oil bath compressor, amount would be minimal and would not pose much of a hazard.


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