winterizing scamp and pests - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-20-2015, 08:41 PM   #1
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Name: denny
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 16 layout 3
Michigan
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Arrow winterizing scamp and pests

Just bought a 2002 scamp 16 for my first trailer. Has city water, grey tank, water tank, electric pump, sink. No bathroom or any other plumbing. How should I winterize it to prevent damage since I think previous owner may have used it this spring. Also, shouldn't I clean it out with bleach or something since I think it was neglected previously? Lastly should I do anything to prevent mice or other pests since it is stored on my Detroit suburb backyard lawn?
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Old 11-21-2015, 09:53 AM   #2
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I'm wondering the same things, and I imagine many others are too. I hope we'll get some answers!
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:26 AM   #3
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Name: Frederick / Janis
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Originally Posted by The Tent Soloist View Post
I'm wondering the same things, and I imagine many others are too. I hope we'll get some answers!

Scamp has an intructional video called, interestingly enough, "Winterizing" on their site. I'd recommend taking a look see. It's right there under Videos tab.

As for mice, the jury is out on the dryer sheets, Irish Spring and/or moth balls.

Take every precaution. We have had success with mothballs in our fiberglass boats over the years. Mice damage is horrendous. Toss stuff down the seat hatches, front and rear, bottom of galley cabinet and bottom of closet compartments and hope for the best.
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:27 AM   #4
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And don't forget to block up the frame a bit, taking some of the load off the axle and tires, as per Scamp's directive. All this stuff is covered in your owner's manual. Don't know where your owner's manual is? You're in luck. Scamp also has owner's manuals online at the site.
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:28 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by The Tent Soloist View Post
I'm wondering the same things, and I imagine many others are too. I hope we'll get some answers!
See:
1. http://www.scamptrailers.com/ask-sca...s-manuals.html
2. Scamp Owners Manual
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:31 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by bpfick View Post
...
As for mice, the jury is out on the dryer sheets, Irish Spring and/or moth balls.

Take every precaution. We have had success with mothballs in our fiberglass boats over the years. Mice damage is horrendous. Toss stuff down the seat hatches, front and rear, bottom of galley cabinet and bottom of closet compartments and hope for the best.
I get that with boats but how are the mice getting into your Scamp?
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:34 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bpfick View Post
... Don't know where your owner's manual is? You're in luck. Scamp also has owner's manuals online at the site.
And if you want a PDF of the 2015 manual, but cant find it, shoot me an email.

Except for the question on pests, all your answers are already out there so no need to rehash it here unless some questions still remain.
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:10 AM   #8
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I get that with boats but how are the mice getting into your Scamp?
Haven't had the issue, Gordon. But will only say this, mice seem to find a way into stuff, that is for sure. An ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure thing.
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:10 AM   #9
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Cool Mice?

Any opening a mouse can get his head through, he can enter. I heard that all openings should be blocked with steel wool.

Welcome to the site, and happy trails to you and your new baby.
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:38 AM   #10
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Haven't had the issue, Gordon. But will only say this, mice seem to find a way into stuff, that is for sure. An ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure thing.
Agree with protection, but not mothballs inside the scamp. They don't agree with me. As for prevention, I changed out the aptly nicknamed "mouse hole" power inlet and made sure everything else was sealed up good. The water line drains on the port side rear went through holes in the floor that were slightly over-sized, and likely large enough for a mouse to get in, so that was one of the areas I sealed up.

If you do have a mouse hole power inlet.. I've had some success with steel wool, mice dont like to chew it. But they can still pull it out to gain entry, or squeeze around it. Better than nothing but keep an eye on things too.
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Old 11-21-2015, 01:44 PM   #11
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Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denny w View Post
Just bought a 2002 scamp 16 for my first trailer. Has city water, grey tank, water tank, electric pump, sink. No bathroom or any other plumbing. How should I winterize it to prevent damage since I think previous owner may have used it this spring. Also, shouldn't I clean it out with bleach or something since I think it was neglected previously? Lastly should I do anything to prevent mice or other pests since it is stored on my Detroit suburb backyard lawn?
ne item is one should never park anything with metal on the bottom such as your frame on the trailer, grass will eat metal real fast and start the rust in motion before you know it and it happens in dry places like the desert to. Detroit is wet like British Columbia even if your not near water but you have huge lakes there. have u looked at blowing the water out of your system if you do this do it at 20pounds pressure, u should only have to put anti freeze in your drain as that is where water sits all the time to stop the gas from coming up. Just remember if your where it freezes at night don't fill tanks if using all year round make it so there is room for expansion. I throw a electric heater in our MH and set it at 500W and if gets real cold move to 750W that way it keeps the damp out of the MH and anything left in lines will not freeze, no fun replacing plastic hoses in tight spaces, okay if younger but not so great when knees no good.
Stude
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Old 11-21-2015, 03:15 PM   #12
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp
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Good question. I just finished preparing our 13' Scamp for its 2nd winter. I recommend watching the video on Scamp's website: http://www.scamptrailers.com/helpful-videos.html
In addition I take the opportunity to clean both gray and black water holding tanks. Just dump in a generous helping of borax and detergent, fill with fresh water, suds it up and let it sit for a couple of hours before draining. I have a 12-gal. potable water tank and 6-gal. Atwood heater. The video says dump in "some" RV antifreeze. I find 2-gallons is insufficient as most of it goes into the hot water heater before the system is fully pressurized. Does anyone have a solution or do I just need to buy 10 gallons of antifreeze?
For those who have the SeaLand Dometic Marine Travelers Toilet, here is the winterizing section of the owner's manual. Please note the Caution at the end.
Cheers!

Winterizing
At the end of each season, the SeaLand toilet should be
winterized for storage by either draining or using potable,
water-safe antifreeze in the system.
To drain:
1. Thoroughly flush system with fresh water.
2. Empty holding tank.
3. Shut off water supply to toilet. Remove inlet
waterline.
4. Press flush lever until all water is drained from
toilet.
To use antifreeze:
1. Thoroughly flush system with fresh water.
2. Empty holding tank.
3. Drain potable water tank.
4. Add freshwater antifreeze and water mixture
through toilet and into the waste holding tank. Each
installation is different, so amounts may vary. User
discretion is required to assure adequate protection.
5. Empty holding tank.
Note: Use nontoxic antifreeze designated for potable
water systems (see boat owner’s manual).
Caution: Never use automotive-type antifreeze in
freshwater systems.
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Old 11-21-2015, 04:18 PM   #13
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
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WOW... It's terrible to live here in the Golden State and miss out on all of these very special activities each winter.


My winterizing consists of putting in a second IKEA duvet and a #3 or #5 comforter in for the bed and making reservations for Beach, Desert or Mountain sites for January, February and March camping. And, sometimes we just go, and don't even bother with reservations.


BTW: How do you "Winterize Pests"


Today in Riverside: 84 degrees, clear with breezes.... LOLOLOLOL
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Old 11-21-2015, 04:19 PM   #14
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweendog View Post
.... I have a 12-gal. potable water tank and 6-gal. Atwood heater. The video says dump in "some" RV antifreeze. I find 2-gallons is insufficient as most of it goes into the hot water heater before the system is fully pressurized. Does anyone have a solution or do I just need to buy 10 gallons of antifreeze? ...
Use a water heater bypass, install one if it is not present. Drain water heater per manual, the small amount of water left in the tank will do no damage (but you might want to clean it every so often). Then use RV antifreeze as described in the video and manual, under two gallons should be plenty.

PS.. if you fresh water tank is toward the back of the camper as it is on mine, then raising the tongue will allow you to get antifreeze to flow through the pump without having to add as much as you do if the trailer is level or even nose down a little.
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