Winterizing your trailer - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-19-2007, 10:39 PM   #15
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Went camping down in Emmetsburg, Iowa over the weekend, expecting the RV park to have full hookups; they only had electricity. So I could not rinse my tanks like I wanted to.

Anyway, I dumped my holding tanks Sunday evening after returning home. I proceeded to winterize tonight. It took about an hour and two gallons of non toxic RV anti freeze to winterize my 2000 Scamp 16 with front Bathroom.

7th year in a row, and I'm finally getting this down to a science!

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 09-22-2008, 08:45 PM   #16
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It's that time again for some of us.. darn

Okay I've followed the winterizing instructions (no compressor) and I'm good till the water pump and turning the valve to stop the pump from drawing from the water tank. I do not seem to have a valve like that, so do I just put the RV antifreeze in the water tank?

Also the two outlets on the outside of the trailer for water connection/filling do I put antifreeze down them?

Thanks in advance. Leanne
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:35 PM   #17
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Leanne, with no winterizing valve then you will need to disconnect the water line from the tank side of the pump and feed them into your antifreeze container so that the pump draws the antifreeze through the system. No need to put the antifreeze into the fresh water tank - just make sure it is drained. This would be a great time to install a winterizing valve - they sell a kit at any RV parts place, I recently installed one and it was quite easy to do. I don't do anything at the city water inlet, just make sure all the taps, shower, toilet, everything runs straight antifreeze. Also pour some down all the traps.
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:45 PM   #18
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I have a winterizing question also.

What is the proper tool I should be equipped with for removing the drain plug from the water heater?

I couldn't get this done myself last fall and had to get help with it, but I'd like to make sure I'm properly equipped this year so I can get it done after the upcoming weekend outing. Thanks!!
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
I do not seem to have a valve like that, so do I just put the RV antifreeze in the water tank?
I guess I should have also stated put the antifreeze in the water tank to then be able to get it to through the water pump so that I can get it to all locations.

Lainey, thanks for your input. My water pump is below my fridge and behind a furnace vent hose, so difficult to get at for installing a winterizing valve. (for me anyway).

Tomorrow I'm going to call a rental place to see if I can rent an air compressor to blow out the lines.
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Old 09-23-2008, 08:02 PM   #20
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Lainey, once again I have some info and haven't a clue where it came from and I'm not certain all anode rods/plugs are the same size, but this is the info I've saved for myself.
Quote:
As far as the anode rod I would use "Liquid Wrench" instead of WD40, let it set for at least a day and then using a 1/2" breaker bar and the correct 1 1/16" socket (use a 6 point one, meaning there are six flat sides inside the socket) with the bar laying horizontal and the handle end pointing to the rear of the trailer pull up wards. They are VERY tight when new so be sure the socket is the correct one and a large enough breaker bar to handle it. You can always slide a piece of pipe over the handle on the breaker bar to gain more leverage.
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:04 AM   #21
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Leanne: you could install a winterizing valve anywhere along the water supply line between the tank and the pump - doesn't have to be right beside the pump if that helps.

Roger C H: If you're going to cover your egg a breathable cover should be used so there isn't moisture rotting between the tarp and egg, BUT a lot of people don't use covers as covers blowing in the wind can cause wear on the gel coat


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Lainey, once again I have some info and haven't a clue where it came from and I'm not certain all anode rods/plugs are the same size, but this is the info I've saved for myself.
Thanks Donna, that was just what I needed to know. You and that computer of yours are a treasure trove of information!
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:35 PM   #22
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Leanne: you could install a winterizing valve anywhere along the water supply line between the tank and the pump - doesn't have to be right beside the pump if that helps.
Thanks. I picked up a a hose and adapter and temporarily attached it to the water pump to get the antifreeze in. Now I'm all winterized and it's nice out again!!! Guess that's what you get when a new trailer owner, better safe then sorry.
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:48 PM   #23
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Lainey,

Atwood 6 gal water heaters don't have anode rods from the factory, they just have a plastic (or brass) plug. Normally, a mechanic's socket of the proper size will work nicely to remove it.

Roger
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Old 09-30-2008, 08:18 PM   #24
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Roger, Yes, that's eggsactly what I found out - brass plug.
Ended up being an 11/16" size with a thin wall that did the trick.
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Old 10-01-2008, 03:15 AM   #25
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I have one cautionary note for those who have anode rods in the water heater.

Anode rods are available in three flavors: zinc, aluminum and magnesium. I personally avoid the zinc and aluminum rods and always buy magnesium. Ingesting excessive amounts of zinc or aluminum is not a good idea (Google it).

If you never use water from the water heater for cooking or beverages, it shouldn't matter.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:42 AM   #26
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Hi: all... Do I really have to bother Aunty Freeze or can I just drain all tanks, traps, and water lines??? I really dont like the idea of a pink drink...unless it has a celery stick in it!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 10-06-2008, 02:49 PM   #27
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Alf, if you use a compressor and schrader valve fitting, you can blow the lines out which is just as effective as anti-freeze, just not nearly as fast or easy. I've done both, not initially wanting to use anti-freeze either, and after a couple of years of doing that, I've become an anti-freeze convert.

If you just blow out the lines, make sure that each side of each tap is open until it's blowing air only, no water at all. Also, I used to leave the taps open all winter. Make sure you blow out the outside shower lines, the commode valve, and that you disassemble the pump and blow the water out of it, and any strainer before or after the pump that you may have.

Frankly, it got to be such a nuisance chasing all the nooks and crannies down, I gave up and started using anti-freeze which pretty much guarantees that if the nook and/or cranny is plumbed, it doesn't get overlooked.

Roger
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Old 10-09-2008, 06:22 PM   #28
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Hi: Roger...and thanks!!! I dropped into my local R.V. Dealer this A.M. to ask some questions and he said he would winterize the trailer for $50.00. Then he said "where do you live"??? I have two to do this afternoon and I could come by and do yours!!! It was that easy... how could I say NO???
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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