110 Volt Wiring - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-30-2008, 12:56 PM   #15
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I did a mod on my Scamp 5er, replacing the cable slide-through hatch with a marine shore power connector, too. I found, however, that the round hole in my trailer for the old hatch was slightly larger than my new connector, so I got inventive and found a way to epoxy the new shore power connector into the slide-through hatch.


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Since my trailer doesn't have an air conditioner I've never needed a 30-amp hookup. So after using my trailer's original 30-amp cable with it's new twist-lock connector a couple times I made a second 110V hook-up cable, All I had to do was cut the end off a 50' heavy-duty construction-grade utility cord and put a 30-amp twist-lock connector on the other end. That gave me a new, longer power cord that is even easier to store, so I leave the 30-amp cable at home and bring a the 110v hookup cable and a 30-amp to 15-amp plug converter for the rare occasion when my hookup post has no 110v plug. (Which hasn't happened yet.)
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Old 11-30-2008, 02:32 PM   #16
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This is How I modified mine. Total cost $2.99

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Old 11-30-2008, 03:14 PM   #17
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Con,

If you put that setup together from off the shelf items, you did a great job and should market that thing.
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Old 11-30-2008, 03:31 PM   #18
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Peterh i have make the same modification but i dont put a twist lock
I use 110v. only for the converter-charger and the laptop

No big cable to camping shore power or generator
No risk to broken water pump or hose and no wet or dirty cable because cable was originaly strore in the same aera
Yvon chayer
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Old 11-30-2008, 04:49 PM   #19
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[quote]This is How I modified mine. Total cost $2.99

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That is really well-done!
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:07 PM   #20
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[quote]This is How I modified mine. Total cost $2.99

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Con, the ring around the plug is just made out of plastice to fit inside the cover? Nice job. Your cost are pretty good out there as in Ontario, I can't buy that plug end from Home Depot for less than $5.00 (but that is till a very inexpensive upgrade)
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:34 PM   #21
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Nice work Con!

I sure wish you had posted this before I dropped an awful lot more money buying the Hubblell marine inlet and outlet for mine. I probably could have made at least 10 sets of yours for what I paid for a single set mine.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:06 PM   #22
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[quote]This is How I modified mine. Total cost $2.99

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Con,

Is that white housing available in the RV world? Maybe Canadian? I haven't come across anything quite like it yet.

Thanks,
Parker
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:44 AM   #23
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Yeah, share your sources with us -- Clearly we LIKE it!

Here's a Marinco RV parts catalog with a lot of stuf, including an RV outlet with locking terminals in various amperages:

www.marinco.com/files/PRKPOWER 2008 CAT.pdf

Here's a rectangular box with standard 15A male plug (picture doesn't come up -- Click on 'Enlarge' icon):

http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/product_info....roducts_id=6812

Google is your friend!
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Old 12-02-2008, 02:59 PM   #24
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To answer several questions. The ring is made from a scrap piece of 3/4"HDMWP. It is fastened into the cup with using 2 of the pan head SS 10-24 bolts (I still have lots of them left) The bolts just carry thru far enough into the outer shell of the plug to hold it in place. I sealed the back side joints with a thin strip of poly butyl tape.
While I was still working in the pulp mill up north I was able to pick up numerous scraps of this material that was in the scrap bins. It machines, drills, threads very nicely. It doesn't need painting or sealing. Great stuff to work with.

Doing this mod served a couple of purposes: it freed up a lot of space under the sink by getting rid of the huge 30 amp. cable. and sealed off the opening preventing insects (Wasps) from getting in. One of my earlier posts showed how the wasps had almost closed off my furnace vent with their nest.

I fail to see why a Boler that has a 110v. fridge and 1 fluorescent light needs a 30 amp. rated cable and circuit breaker. The only other item we run on 110v. on occasions is our instant hot water heater and sometimes a small TV.

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Well maybe the plug was $4.99 I can't recall at the moment.
The cup was the original 1977 cup with the spring loaded flap. The picture shows the final mounting without the flap installed yet.
When I looked around for new ones, I found the same thing as some of you did. Very expensive of cheap crap plastic. I ran into the same thing on my water tank filler fitting and ended up rebuilding that also. There is just no quality to the stuff anymore. If there is it is too expensive. The old stuff is is much better made and worth rebuilding.

The mill wrights at the pulp mill told me the same thing. They found it was better to rebuild 30 years process pumps than replace them as the new ones where not standing up as long.
That's my rant for the day folks.
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Old 12-02-2008, 04:58 PM   #25
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That's my rant for the day folks.
And a helpful rant it was! Now that I know that your mounting cup is an oldy but goody, I'll resign myself to what I find in the RV sources. Lowes has something that would work, but I think I'll come closer to fitting the original hole with something from the RV world.

I agree on the power demand. I was just looking at the converter in the Scamp (13'). It pulls all of 8 amps through that giant wire, which is probably standard fare in case they build in an AC unit. I don't know why a 115V 15A service wouldn't be adequate. We use a ground-mounted AC, which I plug directly into the campsite box.

Thanks for the additional info.

Parker
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:30 PM   #26
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The trailers were apparently built with off-the-shelf parts as much as possible and the smallest standard RV electrical setup is probably 30A/120VAC. Certainly later trailers have it for the a/c.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:46 PM   #27
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The trailers were apparently built with off-the-shelf parts as much as possible and the smallest standard RV electrical setup is probably 30A/120VAC. Certainly later trailers have it for the a/c.
After I posted the info about the converter pulling 8 amps to run lights and charge the battery (sounds high, doesn't it?), I started thinking about the ceramic heater that we often run. I guess a 20 amp service would be the way to go, just to be safe.

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Old 12-04-2008, 01:00 PM   #28
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Size the cable for 20A/120VAC and carry adapter to 15A/120VAC because that is the common shore power socket. My heater has Hi/Lo switch and Lo is plenty for my 13'.
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