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Old 12-17-2017, 03:52 PM   #1
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Name: Jiggs
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12 volt system

I am restoring a 1977 13 ft scamp with no 12 volt system. I need a little help installing the system and is there any problem with having the 12 volt battery inside the trailer?
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Old 12-17-2017, 04:17 PM   #2
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You'll want to ask specific questions for wiring.

Any kind of battery is fine inside the camper, but some (like the typical lead acid) will need to be sealed and vented.
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Old 12-17-2017, 04:38 PM   #3
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Our batteries are in this box and there is a vent hose to exterior. Lid is sealed at wiring points with putty. They are lead acid.
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Old 12-17-2017, 05:11 PM   #4
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If I was doing it or it was mine I would put the battery out in front behind the propane tank is the way I see most of them done. much easier to look after that way!


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Old 12-17-2017, 05:31 PM   #5
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The problem with installing the battery on the tongue, along with the propane tank, is that most tongues are too short to begin with. This means you may not be able to open the tailgate of the TV when hooked up, it may interfere with the jack and the tongue weight goes up.

The battery is easy to service while on the tongue, but the weight distribution is better if it's mounted out of the way near the axle.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:18 PM   #6
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The problem with installing the battery on the tongue, along with the propane tank, is that most tongues are too short to begin with. This means you may not be able to open the tailgate of the TV when hooked up, it may interfere with the jack and the tongue weight goes up.

The battery is easy to service while on the tongue, but the weight distribution is better if it's mounted out of the way near the axle.

My battery and propane tank are both mounted on the 3' tongue. I have no trouble opening the tail gate of my Dakota when connected.
I see very little need to open the tailgate when connected if any. When camping I always unhook.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:20 PM   #7
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12 volt system

For a 13' molded trailer, I personally prefer the battery on the tongue. It preserves limited inside storage for other stuff and eliminates the need for a vent hole in the shell.

Tongue weight is usually not a problem, and my tailgate opens up and out of the way.

YMMV...
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:59 PM   #8
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I see very little need to open the tailgate when connected if any. When camping I always unhook.

Very little need? I open mine all the time while traveling to load groceries, ice or just get something out. My Oliver is the first trailer I've had that has no interference with the tailgate. All the blocks are stored in the truck and they have to come out to unhook. If I just stop for the night I'll likely not unhook, but I can still access everything easily in the truck by dropping the tailgate. I don't want to unhook just to gain access to the ice chest, or the gas can, for instance.

Another issue is the number of batteries. One is fine, or even two, on the tongue. But if someone wants four batteries, (I have four T105 6 volt) the tongue becomes a real problem.
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:33 PM   #9
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battery

my tongue weight with 1 battery 1 propane tank 100lb I suppose you could mount 4 out there and still be ok. you can always get to your battery if its outside and as jon says you gain valuable inside room.

for a 13f I will never need more than one battery.

to each his own I guess

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Old 12-18-2017, 05:43 AM   #10
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Most detectors are hardwired i.e.always on. That can cause a spark when disconnecting. Even though a gas build up is less likely with the battery on the tongue I still have way to disconnect. In my case I remove the inline fuse.
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:56 AM   #11
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my tongue weight with 1 battery 1 propane tank 100lb I suppose you could mount 4 out there and still be ok. you can always get to your battery if its outside and as jon says you gain valuable inside room.

for a 13f I will never need more than one battery.

to each his own I guess

bob
Mine came with the battery under the bench seat in back but I keep my table in the Bed mode all the time so I did more the battery to the tongue.
I too was concerned about weight but I figured if I kept the battery closer to the hitch way up front there would be less strain on the critical part of the Boler frame, where it bends under the very front of fiberglass.
I mounted a regular battery box with holes in plastic box and U-bolts around the frame. I did have to run a few heavy wires from front to the converter but it was well worth it. I can take battery out when need be or fill with water easy as pie.
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Old 12-18-2017, 06:24 AM   #12
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struggle

looking at my 13f scamper inside what a job to put the battery inside then the struggle to get to it to check it. at 75 with big-time back surgery I am not up to it.

I doubt if I would do it anyway for reasons stated. my 12v circuit wire off the battery is very light I don't think scamper intended to much amp draw in use off that battery.

I look at 12v things all I have going is some lights, a water pump disconnected so I see no advantage in my case.

now if you go to an inverter a big 12v waste in my opinion then go with a big bank! in my busing days I would read posts of people thinking with a huge bank the sort you would need a trailer to pull it to run a fridge and a/c.

sorry simply impossible!! not to ruffle feathers here but some things and ideas will not cut it off 12v.

bob

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Old 12-18-2017, 11:40 AM   #13
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I use a jack-E-Up. Like its. I also have the tailgate down when hooked up, upon occasion. My Casita has the battery is in a compartment near the rear bumper. I would prefer that it be on the tongue outside.
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Old 12-18-2017, 12:21 PM   #14
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Lead-acid batteries vent hydrogen when they cycle. Hydrogen is a very explosive gas. Even a small spark could cause a massive explosion. I've seen it happen twice. That's why lead-acid batteries are mounted outside on the tongue, to allow proper venting so the hydrogen gas doesn't accumulate. Even in a sealed battery box with venting to the outside, hydrogen gas can be a problem.
If you want to mount your battery inside your unit you should consider another type of battery.
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Old 12-18-2017, 12:57 PM   #15
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I'd agree with that.

There are definitely legitimate reasons to want to mount a battery inside, but it's definitely not for me. Plenty of space on my trailer tongue, and I can easily (and do often) open the tailgate with it there.
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Old 12-18-2017, 01:04 PM   #16
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Lead-acid batteries vent hydrogen when they cycle. Hydrogen is a very explosive gas. Even a small spark could cause a massive explosion. I've seen it happen twice. That's why lead-acid batteries are mounted outside on the tongue, to allow proper venting so the hydrogen gas doesn't accumulate. Even in a sealed battery box with venting to the outside, hydrogen gas can be a problem.
If you want to mount your battery inside your unit you should consider another type of battery.
My current Promaster van and my previous Sprinter van both have the lead acid wet cell chassis battery mounted inside the vehicle. In both cases they have a small (1/4" od) tube routed downward to underneath the vehicle. There are many thousands of these vehicles in operation. I have a sealed house battery box in my van with a 3/4" pex vent tube routed upward through the roof. Since Hydrogen gas is much lighter than air I think my venting system is superior but even with the small downward tube I have never heard of a resulting accident. If there were a significant risk with a vented box then I would suspect FCA & Daimler's lawyers would be demanding a change. Obviously there should be no possible source of a spark mounted within the sealed battery box.
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Old 12-18-2017, 01:24 PM   #17
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On my boat I only use AGM (absorbed glass matt) batteries and intend to do the same for my 1975 Boler that I am restoring. Being a sealed unit there is no topping up, no venting of gasses and they can be drained more than 50% without lowering the life of the battery. Therefore they are perfect for interior placement.
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Old 12-18-2017, 01:50 PM   #18
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On my boat I only use AGM (absorbed glass matt) batteries and intend to do the same for my 1975 Boler that I am restoring. Being a sealed unit there is no topping up, no venting of gasses and they can be drained more than 50% without lowering the life of the battery. Therefore they are perfect for interior placement.
AGMs definitely have advantages although I question the desirability of draining more than 50%. In addition to not requiring venting they are also capable of handling a significantly greater load without excessive voltage drop. But my wet cell GCBs have about the same capacity and longevity for 1/3 to 1/2 the price.
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Old 12-18-2017, 02:39 PM   #19
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On my boat I only use AGM (absorbed glass matt) batteries and intend to do the same for my 1975 Boler that I am restoring. Being a sealed unit there is no topping up, no venting of gasses and they can be drained more than 50% without lowering the life of the battery. Therefore they are perfect for interior placement.
Early on Parkliner sold their trailer with two Optimus blue top AGM batteries under one of the benches. With not enough air flow they heated up and vented sulfuric acid. The pictures weren't pretty. If you search Parkliner and AGM you can probably find the thread. I'm a big fan of AGM batteries. Mine is on the tongue. Raz
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Old 12-18-2017, 02:46 PM   #20
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In household and industrial solar energy set ups, batteries are pretty much always indoors, in a sealed, vented container. It's really no big deal. But accidents do happen.

The trailer tongue is a very convenient place to mount a battery, and has the added benefit of being outside of the living area. Most of these trailers are so small, a battery inside actually does take up valuable space...

As long as you take the right precautions, mounting the battery inside the camper is 100% acceptable. If installed correctly, then it just comes down to comfort. There are a lot of people who refuse to have any propane system in their campers, out of safety concerns. So, I guess you go with what you're comfortable with.
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