13' Burro trailer repair - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-26-2008, 05:54 AM   #15
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Trailer: 1983 13 ft Burro
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I took a few pics of the break (my first photo posting) . I will be discussing your repair experiences with my welder this weekend. I can't wait to get this repaired, and of course for camping weather. It is snowing this AM! I am so impressed with my little Burro,what a nice design. We have a New Hampshire-Maine trip planned for June, but would like to do local camping in the ADKs to fine tune towing and packing skills. Good bye tent.....
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:16 AM   #16
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Name: Gina D.
Trailer: '77 Leocraft 17 & Former Burro owner and fan!
West Coast USA
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oh my. Thats a little more than a crack

I am thinking a splint isn't going to fix that. That may be major surgery. Call a mobile welder and have him come look. Get references before you hire anyone. That is some serious stuff there, and may be a frame removal, or a complete new frame. The rust on that thing is scary.

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Old 03-26-2008, 10:39 AM   #17
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Trailer: 1983 13 ft Scamp
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Hmmmm --- just what my Scamp would have looked like if I hadn't caught it.... Mine was cracked all the way to the top, just hadn't finished...... And I had just came out of the hills from a hunting trip. Actually, the rust looks just like surface rust (not what we call cancer). Talk to a pro, someone who works in a fabrcation shop or does truck/trailer repair. My local advisor would not be daunted by that. Keep the faith- all is not lost. Larry
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Old 03-26-2008, 01:26 PM   #18
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Hard to tell from the photos, but it may not be all that much worse than a crack.

One really doesn't FIX a crack by welding it back together because the heat of the weld will only make crack again beside the old one. What the welder does is reinforce the areas on both sides of the crack to bridge the weak point and spread out the stresses. It's relatively immaterial whether the crack had progressed to a break or not.

Kinda like a broken arm -- Regardless of the kind of fracture, the end result is a cast.
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Old 03-26-2008, 03:08 PM   #19
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Trailer: 1983 13 ft Burro
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You are right it is bad looking but I have poked around the frame with a screwdriver and the metal is solid. The rust is just surface. The guy I purchased the Burro from had towed it down a back woods (snowmobile) trail in the summer and the road was a little more than 'rough'. The seesawing action between the hitch and Burro was just too much. By the time the he realised the road was too rough and wasn't ending anytime soon it was impossibly narrow to do much more than continue on. At least it was not high speed damage. Oh well.
I will be calling a mobile welder to get an estimate. I will photograph the repair when it happens. Wish us luck!
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Old 03-26-2008, 04:09 PM   #20
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Have any of you ever heard of Lock N Roll hitches? I spoke with an avid off-roader who had one on his teardrop trailer and he swore by them! He is able to negotiate very rough terrain while pulling his trailer. The hitch alleviates stress on the tongue and frame by allowing the trailer to move up and down on the hitch as well as side to side. Your trailer cannot come off the hitch because it does not use a standard type ball. This hitch may be the answer to many of the problems FGRVers have with their trailer frames. Here's what the manufacturer says about their product:

This is a heavy duty product. These hitch and couplers are designed and manufactured by a blacksmithing family who trace their skills back five generations. All units conform to the requirements of SAE standard J684 and are tested by independent labs.

This eliminates twisting damage to vehicle & trailer frames caused by sudden changes in vehicle-trailer orientation while on a construction site, farm, or off roading.

Once the latch plates are locked in place Lock N' Roll® will never pop off like ball hitches do. Everything is in plain view to eliminate any question of whether or not the trailer is hitched correctly. The positively secured connection keeps you in control so minor mishaps on the road don't turn into major accidents.

EASY TO USE Lock N' Rolls® wider range of movement makes it easy to couple and uncouple.

Lock N' Roll® provides a very tight, close fitting connection that eliminates "thunk & jerk" action of conventional hitches. Nearly any terrain can be negotiated safely making this hitch ideal for off road (4x4), as well as horse trailers, boats and RVs. The 360 degrees rotation along with the left to right and up and down articulation allows fantastic maneuverability especially when backing a trailer into position.

Patented (US# 5,647,604) Limited Lifetime Warranty Made entirely in the U.S.A.

And here is the website address: http://www.locknroll.com/features.aspx

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Old 09-01-2017, 04:48 AM   #21
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Featherlite
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What is the process to remove the camper shell? Is it as straight forward as "remove bolts and lift?"

I'm looking at a used Burro and want to beef up the frame or completely replace it and axle/wheels for better off road performance.
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:02 AM   #22
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Trailer: 28' Bigfoot Silver Cloud
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Mike, this is such an old thread that I would suggest you repost your question as a new thread. You will probably have better luck with answers. The thread you grabbed here is 9 years old.

Good luck! We had a 1978 Burro but didn't have to remove the body, so I don't have any advice on that.
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:35 AM   #23
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Name: Cory
Trailer: Burro
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My "Baja Burrito" posts/thread may help? I documented my frame off restoration. Lots pictures and info. Good luck.
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Old 09-07-2017, 04:00 PM   #24
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Name: Mike
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Originally Posted by Scoboatn View Post
My "Baja Burrito" posts/thread may help? I documented my frame off restoration. Lots pictures and info. Good luck.
Hi thanks..

Baja Burrito Resto Mod

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