1300Trillium frame-One glimpse into Randy's work.

[Thinh]

The following photos are from Randy 1300Trillium frame after 95% of work done. Additions are: 1/Re-enforcement frame both bottom and top 2/ 10inch electrical brake installation 3/Front wheel jack added with handle for...manual movement 4/ Alarm and flood light back up 5/ Relocation of spare wheel with easy access 6/ Step assist addition 7/ Rear hitch for bike rack. Here is the common sense or rule of thumb from me for alternation frame's load without changing weight distribution as manufacturer's spec: The length from front end to axle vs rear end is ONE TO THREE, then one pound added in front end(hitch) is equivalent to 3 pounds added in the rear end without altering weight distribution from manufacturer( The relocation of spare wheel-closed to axle- is an extra advantage for extra load at rear end). Hopefully receiving feedbacks from members, I am still in the process of learning. Photos include before and after(95% of works done)-The last 5% adjustment will be carried on after dropping the shell for accuracy. Thanks to all members' inputs.(to be continued with photos)

[Thinh]

The last photo is the old frame after pulling out of the shell before any work done. Thanks to forum's members who gave me an input for installation of electric brakes. Thanks for reading. Expectly all members' inputs. All feedbacks are welcomed. Thanks and...cheer!

[Thinh]

In the next few days or so, Randy will be pleased to post all of his electrical works for his 1300Trillium camper. These include photos of main 120VAC breaker, monitor panel with lights and battery voltage indicator with light, 12VDC fuse panel and monitor, extra 12VDC sources with UBS terminals, switch panel to enable /disable back up alarm and floodlight. All home made by Randy and again, hopefully all members' feedbacks. Then the followiing will be....bunk-bed rework with re-enforcement and extra table pull out as front dinnet. Thanks for reading. Cheer! One more thing, Randy is on process of make-shift water pump, also car radiator fan as 2way(forward and reverse direction). I will post all photos after all for members' opinions. Ten brains is always better than...ONE COCONUT. Cheer!;

[B-Rock]

Any more info on that spare holder? I am mid way through doing my boler and want to do the same.

[David Tilston]

1) OK, You are going to get some comments about your hitch receiver. I am told, that a receiver is supposed to be connected on two cross members. I put a receiver on the bumper of my Trillium 4500. It sits in a saddle cut out of the 4" 1/8" HSS square tube. It extends forward to the cross member just ahead of the bumper, where it is welded. I know that you are just going to be putting bikes on there, but some feel that the forces involved in the bouncing and the moment arm of the bike rack, could break the welds on the receiver.
2) The step assist, are you going to mount a fold out step on that? I assume that you checked to see if it will fit under the "pontoon" where trailer hangs over the frame.
3) Is that actually a hand break on the tongue?

[Thinh]

..You could see in my photos that all my spare wheel housings are made up from bed frames(L-shape), except the bottom bracket which is cut off from previous owner's bracket for un-neccessary added weight. You could see the way I build the spare wheel housing, when it is pulled up and locked, it is more secured than when it is dropped for taking out. So, I cut the original bracket with more than a half of it's length for ...other use...Please give back inputs...

[Thinh]

For David. The handle I put on at front end was actually emergency hand brake from a ...junk car. I just weld it there for convenience when I have to move the trailer by...hand into the narrow paved drive way. Just for fun and my own convenience, though.

[Thinh]

For David. The step assist I carefully measured...by inch before cutting and welding it. But if anything wrong after dropping the shell, I could adjust it by...cutting it off and...re-weld it. About rear hitch, the weld is only 95% done, after dropping the shell, I will weld more triangle pieces to that and the way I did with this kind of rear particular hitch, is the second time I do it. The other trailer I welded, it sould handle 4 bicycles and crusing on HW401 with 120kilometer per hour for....TEST and it worked out with...no problemmo. Thanks for your supplemental David. Cheer.

[Francesca Knowles]

I agree with David about that hitch receiver- I'm thinking it needs reinforcement. There's an awful lot of twist put on a bike rack...

Also:

Did you add height/ground clearance somehow? (Axle, bigger tires etc...) I ask because I've scraped my trailer's bumper many times going out driveways etc. I'm wondering if the backup light especially is going to clear in such situations.

Francesca

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

Did you add height/ground clearance somehow? (Axle, bigger tires etc...) I ask because I've scraped my trailer's bumper many times going out driveways etc. I'm wondering if the backup light especially is going to clear in such situations.

Yeah, I was going to mention that as well, but I see that the light folds up. I was more concerned about the spare. If that gets a good knock from a rock, or what ever, it may not ever come down again.

[Thinh]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

I agree with David about that hitch receiver- I'm thinking it needs reinforcement. There's an awful lot of twist put on a bike rack...

Also:

Did you add height/ground clearance somehow? (Axle, bigger tires etc...) I ask because I've scraped my trailer's bumper many times going out driveways etc. I'm wondering if the backup light especially is going to clear in such situations.

Francesca

Thanks for your concern Francesca. I did all the tests in...my garage as in normal, on road clearance before actually welding them. To do that, I only TACK WELDING for...test before any...actual weldings. Thanks for your input. Cheer!

[Thinh]

I'm sorry about wrong expression ab weight distribution in 1300Trillium frame. Hopefully this time is right. The length from axle to rear end is ONE THIRD of the length form axle to front end. That means ONE POUND added to front end is equivalent to 3 POUNDS added to rear end without altering weight distribution form manufacturer's spec. But it will add up more over-all weight to trailer axle. To my axle, thru local supply info when I ordered 10''ellectrical brakes, it turns out my axle is rated @ 3500lbs capacity, unlike 2000lbs as I thought. So, no problemmo for me, I guess...

[D Davis]

WOW, nice work!

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Thinh

The length from axle to rear end is ONE THIRD of the length form axle to front end. That means ONE POUND added to front end is equivalent to 3 POUNDS added to rear end without altering weight distribution form manufacturer's spec.

The logic is right, but I suggest checking those measurements. From axle to rear bumper of a 1300 should be about 4 feet, while from the axle to the coupler should be about 9 feet... not much more than 2:1, rather than 3:1. If the ratio were actually 3:1, the tongue weight would be likely be over 20% of the trailer weight. I may have the dimensions wrong, or you may be comparing the spare tire location (rather than right at the back) to somewhere on the tongue.

Also, even if the tongue weight is kept the same by adding weight to the front and rear in proportion, mass out at the ends is much worse for stability than mass near the axle - for this reason, the spare location near the axle is good.

Originally Posted by Thinh

To my axle, thru local supply info when I ordered 10''ellectrical brakes, it turns out my axle is rated @ 3500lbs capacity, unlike 2000lbs as I thought. So, no problemmo for me, I guess...

10" brakes normally come on 3500 pound axles, while 2000 pound axles normally get 7" brakes. The higher-capacity axle will be extra strong, but it will also be extra stiff, so the ride will be unnecessarily rough, possibly to the point of damaging components of the trailer or items carried in it. The stiffness of the rubber used as springs can be adjusted, but unfortunately not after the axle is built.

[Thinh]

Originally Posted by B-Rock

Any more info on that spare holder? I am mid way through doing my boler and want to do the same.

I looked into your photos and see that we are in the same boat, only different names of the trailers. But if I were you, at the curve portion of front end, instead of welding only L-shape rails at bottom, I would add extra horizontal, thick metal pieces right those spots( both sides). The extra weights of those pieces would be negligible compared to axle capacity but it will add extra strength into your frame in the long term of.....camping and...abuse to the frame. Just my personal opinion, though.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Thinh

it turns out my axle is rated @ 3500lbs capacity, unlike 2000lbs as I thought. So, no problemmo for me, I guess...

Do keep in mind the old maxim that "the chain is only as strong as its weakest link".

The fact that you've put a 3500 pound axle on a frame originally designed for 2200 pounds doesn't mean you've automatically increased your load carrying capacity. Always, always, the weakest part dictates the limits of the whole- I hope you'll take heed of the excellent advice folks are offering as to strengthening the frame.

Take care!

Francesca

[Thinh]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

Do keep in mind the old maxim that "the chain is only as strong as its weakest link".

The fact that you've put a 3500 pound axle on a frame originally designed for 2200 pounds doesn't mean you've automatically increased your load carrying capacity. Always, always, the weakest part dictates the limits of the whole- I hope you'll take heed of the excellent advice folks are offering as to strengthening the frame.

Take care!

Francesca

.. The 3500lb axle was there when I bought the trailer. But as you said, I'll keep in mind-just as a peace of mind if anything I add above limit a bit- I also keep in mind with a bigger rim/tire as option. About rear hitch receiver, it would be definitely changed and to be on top of rear bumper instead of under-neath it( no gain at all-the reason I did in the previous trailer because it must be under-neath for rear gate dropped down, which is not the case in this Trillium). Thanks for all your advices...

[B-Rock]

Originally Posted by Thinh

I looked into your photos and see that we are in the same boat, only different names of the trailers. But if I were you, at the curve portion of front end, instead of welding only L-shape rails at bottom, I would add extra horizontal, thick metal pieces right those spots( both sides). The extra weights of those pieces would be negligible compared to axle capacity but it will add extra strength into your frame in the long term of.....camping and...abuse to the frame. Just my personal opinion, though.

I like getting extra input. You think I need to add more flat stock to where I already added some? I have 3 inch flat on both the inside and outside of the curb side (where all bolers crack) and I added a long outside piece to the road side.

Where could I put more?

[Thinh]

Originally Posted by B-Rock

I like getting extra input. You think I need to add more flat stock to where I already added some? I have 3 inch flat on both the inside and outside of the curb side (where all bolers crack) and I added a long outside piece to the road side.

Where could I put more?

Must be my...bad eyes. If you already put them, that's good and that is what I meant. Thanks.