13ft Burro owners, need you to take a look - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-21-2007, 02:24 PM   #1
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Need someone to take a look at the inside front behind couch back. Where the inner and outer shell meet there, is the joint tight? On mine the inside shell is not anchored to the outer right there. Need to know if I need to change that. If someone has a pic with carpet or ? out of the way it would be a help. Thanks Mike

rmearkie@earthlink.net for pic
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Old 05-21-2007, 03:56 PM   #2
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Not sure if it's the same spot , but I did notice that my inner and outer shells are sort of "tack" welded with fiberglass. Nice for snaking wires through.

Maybe one of your "tacks" broke loose.
I would imagine it would be easy enough to slap some fiberglass goop back in there.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:27 PM   #3
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Here's what my 1981 looked like with front wall carpet removed. That was a while back when I was gutting the interior. The inner and outer shells were "welded" I believe, or in any case at the time I did not think anything was amiss in that area.
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:58 AM   #4
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Our inner and outer shells are only attached along the top edge with fiberglass. The cabinets and seats were originally screwed down to the floor but we removed all screws when we replaced the floor, and do not want to add holes/screws in our new beautiful floor. The cabinest flex in some areas, and where we needed more stability, we have glued the cabinet flanges to the floor with liquid nails.
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:47 PM   #5
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Here's what my 1981 looked like with front wall carpet removed. That was a while back when I was gutting the interior. The inner and outer shells were "welded" I believe, or in any case at the time I did not think anything was amiss in that area.
From the bottom of the front window down the shell is seperated, think I'm going to pull the front window out, might let it flex a little more in that area, and re-attach. Don't want to get carried away with goop in case I need to disassemble someday, will liquid nails hold it? thanks, Mike
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Old 05-23-2007, 03:46 PM   #6
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Mike, are your sides buckled in some way creating a big gap? We have about 1/4" gap between the two halves under the windows and the carpet strip covers it nicely. Where our gaps allowed, we added more foil backed bubble insulation. We have yet to wire and plumb and I am so grateful for the unattached double hull construction.
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:53 PM   #7
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Mike, are your sides buckled in some way creating a big gap? We have about 1/4" gap between the two halves under the windows and the carpet strip covers it nicely. Where our gaps allowed, we added more foil backed bubble insulation. We have yet to wire and plumb and I am so grateful for the unattached double hull construction.
It doesn't look buckled, crushed or cracked and looks like under front window is only place it's seperated. I pulled front window earlier today so I could also get it anchored under the inside window. There is a small gap in a couple places around the window where the 2 pieces come together.

Couple of questions

What's best to "glue" fiberglas pieces together?
What should I use when I put the window back in for a seal? I wanted to pull it also so I could re-seal and get the "goobered up" lookinng gobs of sealant off.
Also door has seal so thick they had to take of the metal striker to get it to close, what works best?

Can you tell I just got it? Now gotta fix the years of shoddy repairs. How about a new piece of wood added to upper front bunk that is too big to fold up and down? New piece in the works. Add a/c, better jacks, stereo and DVDplayer later.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 05-23-2007, 07:58 PM   #8
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1 more thing (at least for today) is the stone guard mounted on 3/4" thick piece of wood on your Burro"s? Or is mine, the wood, an add on to compensate for bad screw holes?

Mike

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It doesn't look buckled, crushed or cracked and looks like under front window is only place it's seperated. I pulled front window earlier today so I could also get it anchored under the inside window frame. There is a small gap in a couple places around the window where the 2 pieces come together.

Couple of questions

What's best to "glue" fiberglas pieces together?
What should I use when I put the window back in for a seal? I wanted to pull it also so I could re-seal and get the "goobered up" lookinng gobs of sealant off.
Also door has seal so thick they had to take of the metal striker to get it to close, what works best?

Can you tell I just got it? Now gotta fix the years of shoddy repairs. How about a new piece of wood added to upper front bunk that is too big to fold up and down? New piece in the works. Add a/c, better jacks, stereo and DVD player for fun when I can.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:31 PM   #9
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My Stone guard was mounted on two tapered fiberglass wedges. about 3/4 on one end and tapered down to approx 1/8. This was to compinsate for the curve of the body.
so the 1/8 side was near the center seam and the 3/4 on the outside of the stone guard.

Anyway mine were crumbling so I made new pieces from solid oak and then coated them in fiberglass resin.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:42 PM   #10
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When I replaced my front and both side windows I had to do major adjustments because my replacement windows were of different sizes. You can see by these pictures when I removed the windows it revealed obvious whole sections of the inner and outer shell were not connected to each other where the window was.

When installing my windows Formula 27, an excellent patching fiberglass putty available in quarts, did a great job for me. I had some patching and filling to do but not because of any concern about the inner and outer shell being separate. My new side windows were a different size and needed a rough opening about an inch + or more smaller. I used the Formula 27 with wood inserts, clamps and screws to seal, patch, or build onto the fiberglass shells.

I closed the rough opening by fitting a piece of wood between the two shells and before glassing it all over added a machine screw to keep it mechanically in place. I'd never consider using a (non-fiberglass) glue of any kind. I never gave any thought to sealing the inner and outer shells all around. Only did it on the bottom to reduce the rough opening. Never did it on the front window either. I used butyl tape caulk, the kind for sealing auto windshields, when bed-nesting the new windows in place.

No leaks.

As for the rock guard....3/4 plywood is nuts. Why add so much weight? You're stopping rocks, not bullets. I made a light frame from scrap wood and covered it with the 1/16 inch thick plywood. Total cost was around 75 cents.

Don't fix something that ain't broke.
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Old 05-24-2007, 01:09 PM   #11
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Sorry, I wasn't very clear I guess. The 3/4 plywood was just a small strip that the rock guard mount was screwed into. Just trying to decide if it was that way new or added to make up for bad screw holes. I have the aluminum frame and the Burro logo part of the rock gaurd. Mike
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Old 05-24-2007, 09:07 PM   #12
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Hi Mike,

Our Burro was in rough shape and was used as an extra storage shed for 4 years. We have done a complete egg-off-the-frame reconstruction beginning with sandblasting the frame, painting with POR-15, making a 1/2" marine grade plywood floor sandwiched between 3 layers of fiberglass, and reattaching the egg to the floor to the frame.

There were many holes in the fiberglass. The previous owner used cup hooks on the outside to hold some sort of awning. I bartered with a local fiberglass shop to get the supplies and knowledge I needed to repair the egg myself.

They suggested using fiberglass resin mixed with ceramic dust to create a paste to fill the holes. This created a really hard surface, that is equally hard to sand down but if you put a piece of wax paper over the patch when it is warm and smooth it out, it helps with the finishing. Just peel off the wax paper once hard and sand the edges.

Our front rock guard (aluminum frame & hinge with fiberglass center) did have some sort of wood between the aluminum hinge and fiberglass. It was completely rotten and not much of it was left. We filled all holes in fiberglass using same method above. We reattached the hinge with stainless bolts, a stainless strip and lots of butyl tape. We drilled holes for the bolts, laid two strips of butyl tape (width of our butyl tape was about 3/4" and the hinge area was about 1-1/2"), installed bolts through the hinge, pushing through butyl tape to the inside where we had a strip of stainless steel backer. We then attached bolts on inside, and tightened. The buytl squeezed out a bit. We trimmed gently with razor knife and later sealed the outside edges with 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200. No wood, no screws, and no leaking.

We took out all windows, refurbished them by cleaning in all tracks, behind all rubber in tub, then applied Brasso on soft cloth in circular motions on smoked Plexiglas, let dry, rubbed off with even softer cloth, and wow! What a difference. Both sides were done and the Brasso took out most of the cloudyness. We reinstalled the windows much in the same way as rock guard…liberal butyl tape on fiberglass, the we reinstalled the inside trim ring with stainless steel screws the same size as original (rusty) screws. The butyl oozed out when we tightened the windows to the inside frame, we trimmed gently with razor knife, and later sealed outside edges with 5200 Sealant.

The fiberglass professionals that I worked with, recommended the 5200 Sealant. They create parts for autos, planes, boats, and industrial applications. So our little trailer should be water tight.

I only used liquid nails minimally on inside applications where adhesion (or lack thereof) would not cause any due harm. It actually performed better than I thought holding a plastic curtain track in the bathroom. I changed my mind and had a heck of a time getting the plastic track off.

As far as the bunk…haven’t gotten that far. I will be creating the small dinette in front that will make down to a bed. And have several ideas floating around about the upper bunk. There are schematic drawings of bunks somewhere on this site that will show you the hardware that some units have. Since weight is always in the back of my mind, I’d like to create a top bunk with aluminum tubing for a frame, with either the outdoor webbing (folding chair style) or a canvas piece suspended by stretch cord around the frame (cot style).

Good luck with your projects!
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