17' Boler Furnace Exterior Vent Removal

[TimR]

Hello all,
So last trip a tire came off my trailer and did some damage as it went under the trailer. Today I started the repair of the fiberglass. I found a crack that went up and beside the vent of the furnace. I took off the exterior cover, then went to remove the inside part of it. It would not come off. The interior pipe is some how attached to the furnace it self. I went inside and took the cover off the furnace and the drawer above it to get a look in behind. I can't find a screw or anything to suggest how to disconnect the two so I can pull the exterior part of the vent off so I can make the fiberglass repair. Youtube seems to be no help as all of the videos are for modern trailers. Hope someone can help!
Thanks
TR

[Bob in Mb]

I have never dealt with a Boler furnace but the two that I have worked on were a one peice unit right out to the vent cover .

[TimR]

Hmmm. It looks to me like one pipe slipping over the other with a much smaller one inside. It has to attach to something though. I just want the inner housing off so I can get access to the fiberglass around it and make my patches. Hope that makes sense. I should have taken a picture. Thanks though Bob.

[Perry J]

Most have a small pipe in a large pipe and there is no screw or any other coupling.
It's just a slip fit.
There's a small pipe on the exterior vent cover and a larger pipe on the furnace.
Disconnect the 12V, gas and remove the 1 or 2 screws that hold the furnace in under the grill and the whole furnace should slip out.

[TimR]

Hmm. There is no electricity running to my furnace. The trailer is from the '70's before they had power in the furnace. I felt everywhere for some screws to take out but can't seem to find any more. Where abouts are the two screws you are talking about?

[mszabo]

The inner and outer pipes are most likely rusted together.
Do as Perry said, it will take some effect.

[tractors1]

Agree on the rust sticking stubborn pipes. A bit of Liquid Wrench or similar will help when aided by "percussion adjustment"

Charlie Y

[Bill Nolen]

Does the outside vent look like this?

Scamp furance outside vent.jpg Views: 8 Size: 149.7 KB ID: 85813" style="margin: 2px" />

If so, most likely the intake/exaust tube can be only removed from the outside by removing the 6 rivets, and twisting the tube and pulling until it becomes free.

An illuistration of that type of heater can be found here:

Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Suburban Direct Vent Heater GT-10D

Good luck,

Bill

[TimR]

It's similar Bill. I took off the outer cover and there is still another piece on the outside of the fiberglass. If they are rusted together, they might as well as be welded. I pull on the outside and it pulls the furnace in. I pull on the furnace, and the outside fiberglass flexes in. Just don't want to break anything that will be hard to find parts for.

Charlie will the Liquid Wrench give off fumes when I fire up the furnace the next time?

Thanks everyone for your input. I will try to get back soon for some pictures to post.

[Perry J]

Originally Posted by TimR

Hmm. There is no electricity running to my furnace. The trailer is from the '70's before they had power in the furnace. I felt everywhere for some screws to take out but can't seem to find any more. Where abouts are the two screws you are talking about?

They should be at the very front of the furnace and screwed into the cabinet.
Once you remove the interior Grill the should be available.

[Perry J]

Liquid wrench or other chemicals you use the get the rust to release will burn off the first time you fire up the furnace with no problem.

[TimR]

Alright so I went a bit hulk today when I got fed up looking for screws etc to make the two halves come apart. Since there was damage to the fiberglass already, I made the crack a little bigger and then bent some of the tin to fit through the hole and I could pull it into the trailer and then out. Of course once I make the repairs to the fiberglass I will need to figure out how to get them apart for reassembly. I have now taken some pictures so hopefully someone can give me a definative way to get them apart. I have now seen though that there is a joint on the inside pipe and it is rusty. I will be purchasing a can of Liquid Wrench tomorrow to see if that can free the two pieces.

[Bill Nolen]

Tim, as I have always said...whatever works...WORKS!

In the last photo you posted, I believe I can see a Mfg. Data Plate on the right side of the metal housing.

If the data plate is readable, you should be able to learn the make and model number of the heater.

Your heater's heat chamber is different in construction from the Suburban Model GT6-3A that was in my 1978 Scamp 13.

Bill