17' Boler Toilet and Window seals

[Daryl05]

Hi all wondering if anyone has had trouble with the Boler monogram classic toilet running and if it is an easy fix. My Boler is a 1976 17' RGH model.

After depressing the foot flush valve a small amount of water continues to run and fills the bowl. Enough water fills the bowl and starts to seep past the flapper and slowly fill the black tank. Has anyone had this problem and is it an easy fix to disassemble and repair the toilet.

Also my windows are leaking when it rains. It looks as though it is just Robertson screws on the inside holding the windows in place. Once these are removed, is it just the butyl tape holding them in? I would assume the tape is original and is leaking but do the window frames commonly leak and are those an easy fix after I change the butyl tape?

Im new to the Boler world and welcome any help. Thanks for having a look.

Daryl

[Lisa in Michigan]

We were working on boler Windows last year, but that got stalled by the trillium belly band repair.

Just getting started again on the boler 17. We found crud blocking the weep holes for the windows - weed wacker string worked for us. We were going to just switch the weathered outside gaskets with the inside ones but found that out the glass panes in the windows were mainly mounted with butyl tape which had crud between the glass and the metal frame in places. So had to remount those.

Ended up buying new gaskets, only have them installed on one window so far. Did remount the windows with butyl tape. For the screws holding the window clamp ring, some came out easy, some broke in half and some didn't budge. Our Windows are anodized aluminum, so l was careful about cleaning them so l didn't scratch the finish anymore than it already was. When you pull the Windows off you can see the window model number, which is handy to ordering gaskets.

Also removed tons of calk all over the place.

And once you take the clamp ring and screws off the window it is just the butyl holding the window on.

[Daryl05]

Originally Posted by Lisa in Michigan

We were working on boler Windows last year, but that got stalled by the trillium belly band repair.

Just getting started again on the boler 17. We found crud blocking the weep holes for the windows - weed wacker string worked for us. We were going to just switch the weathered outside gaskets with the inside ones but found that out the glass panes in the windows were mainly mounted with butyl tape which had crud between the glass and the metal frame in places. So had to remount those.



Ended up buying new gaskets, only have them installed on one window so far. Did remount the windows with butyl tape. For the screws holding the window clamp ring, some came out easy, some broke in half and some didn't budge. Our Windows are anodized aluminum, so l was careful about cleaning them so l didn't scratch the finish anymore than it already was. When you pull the Windows off you can see the window model number, which is handy to ordering gaskets.



Also removed tons of calk all over the place.

And once you take the clamp ring and screws off the window it is just the butyl holding the window on.

Thanks for the help Lisa I will do those things. Hope not too many screws brake off. Where did you buy new windows gaskets?

[herons]

Following toilet seal thread.

[Lisa in Michigan]

Pelland Enterprises. Pelland charged $4 for their samples, let them know what other ones you want included besides their standard samples. I don't remember All-Rite charging for samples.

Don't think we actually ordered the top seal for the hehr 7900 radius torque window yet. The cost adds up pretty quick

[Daryl05]

Originally Posted by Lisa in Michigan

Pelland Enterprises. Pelland charged $4 for their samples, let them know what other ones you want included besides their standard samples. I don't remember All-Rite charging for samples.

Don't think we actually ordered the top seal for the hehr 7900 radius torque window yet. The cost adds up pretty quick

Thanks so much Lisa. Awesome. Here's to hoping I don't break too many screws getting the windows out. Easy fix if some break ??

Thanks again

[John in Michigan]

Hi Daryl, answering your question to Lisa in Michigan :

There may have been one or two screws that broke off. Biggest problem was that for each window, one or two screws were frozen, and couldn't come up with any way to remove them. In this case, you could try soaking the screw in wd40. I tried needle nosed vise grips. I tried grinding a slot in the screw. Finally had to grind the heads off of these screws, first with a dremel, and then (this worked better) with a drill bit.

To remove the now headless screws, wait until you have removed the clamp ring and have removed the window from the trailer. Then with the window on your bench, soak the now headless screws in wd40, THEN turn them off with needle nosed vise grip.

Good luck!
John in Michigan