1971 Boler 1300 repairs: door, rivets, cabinet supports, etc - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-30-2016, 02:48 PM   #1
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Name: Chad
Trailer: boler
Alberta
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1971 Boler 1300 repairs: door, rivets, cabinet supports, etc

Hey everyone,

I'm new to the boler world, and the FGRV world in general, but I'm very excited to get our new project out to enjoy the benefits of not sleeping on the ground in a tent. I've been through the boler fairly thoroughly now and below are my most pressing issues without obvious solutions.

I've done some searching for information about the bolts that hold the door hinges to the shell of the body and the door itself (the horizontal bolts, not the vertical bolts with the spring and brass ball) and I'm coming up empty-handed so I'm hoping to get some help here.

One of my bolts snapped while I was trying to loosen it (to adjust the door angle slightly), so now I'm looking to replace all of them with a SS option but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I could try to take the remaining bolts off but they're not moving at all and if I break another one I'll be stuck with the door completely off.

Does anyone know the hinge hole size, thread, and the length of the original bolts? I'd like to try re-using the original hinges (with the addition of the rebuild kit) if at all possible.

As for rivets, is there anything special about the rivets that need to be used to fasten the upper cabinets back to the shell, or are they pretty standard? I haven't done much with rivets but after looking into it they seem like the easiest solution to getting the boler back to good. I have several holes in the shell where rivets used to be and one way or another they will all need to be filled and waterproofed.

Further issues with the cabinets... The PO removed the two black metal supports from the sink side of the cabinets, and on the fridge side there was a very lightweight grease splash guard that was screwed to the top and bottom cabinets providing no structural support whatsoever. What do you suggest that I replace these supports with? I'm not sure what material would be best to be supportive yet lightweight, and I'm also not sure what the original distance between the cabinets was (from countertop to bottom of upper). Right now I have 3/8" difference L (20 1/4") to R (20 5/8") so I know something is off!

Any advice on one or all of these areas would be greatly appreciated, and if I've missed something in my search please just refer me to the post and I can take it from there. Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-30-2016, 03:25 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheech00TS View Post
Hey everyone,

I'm new to the boler world, and the FGRV world in general, but I'm very excited to get our new project out to enjoy the benefits of not sleeping on the ground in a tent. I've been through the boler fairly thoroughly now and below are my most pressing issues without obvious solutions.

I've done some searching for information about the bolts that hold the door hinges to the shell of the body and the door itself (the horizontal bolts, not the vertical bolts with the spring and brass ball) and I'm coming up empty-handed so I'm hoping to get some help here.

One of my bolts snapped while I was trying to loosen it (to adjust the door angle slightly), so now I'm looking to replace all of them with a SS option but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I could try to take the remaining bolts off but they're not moving at all and if I break another one I'll be stuck with the door completely off.

Does anyone know the hinge hole size, thread, and the length of the original bolts? I'd like to try re-using the original hinges (with the addition of the rebuild kit) if at all possible.
The bolts are 1/4"-20 also know as 1/4"NC
Length I believe is 3/4"
I highly recommend you use anti seize compound on the threads when you reassemble. On the door bolts try to find the flattest or thinnest head available.

The broken bolt you can just drill out the bolt to the 1/4" size (hole diameter) and use a 1/4" bolt with acorn nut or nylock nut on the outsside

If needed I sell the hinge rebuild kits in Stainless Steel

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Originally Posted by Cheech00TS View Post

As for rivets, is there anything special about the rivets that need to be used to fasten the upper cabinets back to the shell, or are they pretty standard? I haven't done much with rivets but after looking into it they seem like the easiest solution to getting the boler back to good. I have several holes in the shell where rivets used to be and one way or another they will all need to be filled and waterproofed.

Further issues with the cabinets... The PO removed the two black metal supports from the sink side of the cabinets, and on the fridge side there was a very lightweight grease splash guard that was screwed to the top and bottom cabinets providing no structural support whatsoever. What do you suggest that I replace these supports with? I'm not sure what material would be best to be supportive yet lightweight, and I'm also not sure what the original distance between the cabinets was (from countertop to bottom of upper). Right now I have 3/8" difference L (20 1/4") to R (20 5/8") so I know something is off!
Rivets are aluminum, most are 1/8" diameter and should fit snug in the holes, if the holes are enlarged you can use 3/16"

You can use anything for the upper cabinet support, wrought iron, a spindle, I have even seen a tree branch used(look very cool)


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Any advice on one or all of these areas would be greatly appreciated, and if I've missed something in my search please just refer me to the post and I can take it from there. Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-30-2016, 03:42 PM   #3
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Name: Chad
Trailer: boler
Alberta
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boler cabinet supports

Ian G.

Do you recall how long those supports need to be, or what the original spacing was between upper and lower cabinet? That tree branch sounds like a wicked idea!

As for the rebuild kit, I think I'll take you up on that. It seems like I should go all the way with the hinges and get them working perfectly. How do I make that happen?

With regards to the rivets, should I be looking into a SS version or will standard rivets do the trick?

I'm encouraged by your response because the solutions seem simple, cheap, and effective, which falls in line nicely with my values in regards to this trailer reno!

Thanks!
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Old 06-30-2016, 05:14 PM   #4
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheech00TS View Post
Ian G.

Do you recall how long those supports need to be, or what the original spacing was between upper and lower cabinet? That tree branch sounds like a wicked idea!

As for the rebuild kit, I think I'll take you up on that. It seems like I should go all the way with the hinges and get them working perfectly. How do I make that happen?

With regards to the rivets, should I be looking into a SS version or will standard rivets do the trick?

I'm encouraged by your response because the solutions seem simple, cheap, and effective, which falls in line nicely with my values in regards to this trailer reno!

Thanks!
For the length of the support I would measure the distance between upper and lower cabinet on the right side (stove side) and transfer that measurement to the left.

There is a lot f discussion on Aluminum vs SS rivets, aluminum is plenty string enough and if it i stressed the rivet will break rather than the fibreglass .... on the other hand if your frame is solid and the body fastened to the trailer securely nothing should move in which case SS rivets or even #8 machine screws will work equally well.
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Old 06-30-2016, 11:05 PM   #5
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Name: Rob
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Further issues with the cabinets... The PO removed the two black metal supports from the sink side of the cabinets, and on the fridge side there was a very lightweight grease splash guard that was screwed to the top and bottom cabinets providing no structural support whatsoever. What do you suggest that I replace these supports with? I'm not sure what material would be best to be supportive yet lightweight, and I'm also not sure what the original distance between the cabinets was (from countertop to bottom of upper). Right now I have 3/8" difference L (20 1/4") to R (20 5/8") so I know something is off!
I made my replacement support from an Ikea closet rod kit. Bought it in their salvage department for $5, modified, and cut to fit.
Best part is the rod is hollow steel, so I ran the power line for the LED lights through it.
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:34 AM   #6
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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Originally Posted by Cheech00TS View Post
Further issues with the cabinets... The PO removed the two black metal supports from the sink side of the cabinets, and on the fridge side there was a very lightweight grease splash guard that was screwed to the top and bottom cabinets providing no structural support whatsoever. What do you suggest that I replace these supports with?
$18 USD from Scamp
Hardware : Cabinet Wrought Iron Support
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:11 PM   #7
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Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
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Roy--clever use of materials!

We used scraps of the marine plywood we bought for the new subfloor.

Made the front edges wavy, used the straight back edges to cover small gaps between wall panels and surrounding structures...but no usable holes in anything (except behind paneling) for the wiring!
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:22 PM   #8
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Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
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For cabinet support you may try something hollow so you can pass wires up to the upper cabinet. I used a length of stainless and a couple flanges to finish it off.
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:49 PM   #9
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Name: Chad
Trailer: boler
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Cabinet repair

Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I will be getting to the supports once I figure out what I want to do with the cabinet in terms of filling holes, replacing lights with LED, and reinforcing holes for remounting to the shell. I'm also trying to track down closed-end rivets so that when its all put back together I won't have to worry about water issues.

I'm planning on using a two part epoxy to fill the small rivet holes left behind from years of mounting various lights etc to the cabinet. Once the holes are filled I'm hoping to sand the entire thing, lay some new mat inside the cabinets to provide a bit smoother finish, and then repaint it all with a marine Tremclad or something similar that is designed for fiberglass.
I'm not sure about using the epoxy to fill the holes that will be used to mount the cabinet to the shell, but the other option would be to wrap the holes front and back with glass mat and try to reinforce the holes before drilling them out for new rivets. On the shell, I think epoxy should be solid enough as long as I rough up the holes a bit and make sure they're extra clean(obviously). Once the epoxy sets, I plan to redrill and reinstall waterproof rivets. If anyone has a better suggestion, I'd love to hear it!

I've already read Dave's thread on fiberglass repair, but I think little rivet holes in the shell will only require a bit of work to ensure they're solid, and the waterproof rivets should finish the job nicely.
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Old 07-01-2016, 05:36 PM   #10
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If anyone has a better suggestion, I'd love to hear it!

I've already read Dave's thread on fiberglass repair, but I think little rivet holes in the shell will only require a bit of work to ensure they're solid, and the waterproof rivets should finish the job nicely.
Epoxy putty sticks
Epoxy Putty Sticks | J-B Weld
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Old 07-01-2016, 05:46 PM   #11
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Name: Chad
Trailer: boler
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Fiberglass repairs

Thanks Roy, I'll see if I can find those!
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Old 07-01-2016, 05:54 PM   #12
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Thanks Roy, I'll see if I can find those!
You are welcome.
It does not have to be that brand. Just about every hardware store, home depot and canadian tire has something similar.

If I recall, Alf S has done a few posts on how to use it. Basically cut a small slice off, mix it by kneading and push into the hole. Before it sets hard cut off the excess with a razor blade. Once set sand smooth.

Somebody has posted which one dries almost the same white as our trailers.
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Old 07-01-2016, 08:22 PM   #13
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We used closed end rivets as they can not leak unlike regular pop rivets.
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Old 07-01-2016, 08:35 PM   #14
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Window screen holders options

original 78 boler windows
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