1971 Trillium Rear Window Cracked...help me...

[Paul Richter]

Hi there, I have a small crack in rear window in my "1971 Trillium". I was wondering where to purchase either a new one or a used one, as well as the window seals for both front or back(new). Any info would be greatly appreciated. Has anyone change from the type that I have, to ones that open & close...not sure if this is possible?
Paul

[Booker B.]

Hi Paul,

I thought that the 1971 model had opening rear windows. Can you tell if yours is original?

You can replace the window but it may be difficult to find one with the exact size as yours.

[Paul Richter]

Hi Paul,

I thought that the 1971 model had opening rear windows. Can you tell if yours is original?

You can replace the window but it may be difficult to find one with the exact size as yours.

I think it is original. I'm going to take a better look (take some of the insulation off) to get the exact size to fine a replacement window either same at I presently have or an upgrade.

[Raya]

The rubber seal and accompanying lock-strip are available from Scamp, as well as from various commercial outlets (I think they're used on things like school buses). If it's anything like a Boler/clone, the actual window is plastic.

I would guess that that window is original, because the corners are radiused. If the later Hehr jalousies had been in there, the corners would be squared off. Did you notice the new member with a 1972 Trillium? That trailer's front window is just like this one, so my guess would be that they started making Trills with both the front and rear window like this one, and then the rear window switched over to the framed style, followed by the front one.

Raya

[Alistair Camelford]

Any auto glass place can do it. Each louvre is set in with common rubber seal and the frame is held with two screws. The glass is just plain window glass. Takes about 20 minutes to replace. I've done two of 'em!
Alistair

[Alistair Camelford]

Oooops I shoulda read more carefully. I just posted on how to replace a panel on the rear jalousie...which 71's and some'72's dont have.
Panels of Lexan are obtainable at glass & window companies. They custom cut. Lexan is unbreakable but can be cut and shaped to fit. Your old window would be the template. Also look for "Plastic Welding" in the yellow pages or Kijiji I suspect your window is "Perspex" or similar and could be repaired and polished.
Me...I'd go for the Lexan. Especially for the front if you have no gravel guard.
Good luck with the repair.
FWIW, I almost bought an early Trill at an auction two years back...serial # 600 or thereabouts, but it looked like a LOT of work to restore. Yours looks awesome
Cheers from "down the 401"
Alistair

[Paul Richter]

Oooops I shoulda read more carefully. I just posted on how to replace a panel on the rear jalousie...which 71's and some'72's dont have.
Panels of Lexan are obtainable at glass & window companies. They custom cut. Lexan is unbreakable but can be cut and shaped to fit. Your old window would be the template. Also look for "Plastic Welding" in the yellow pages or Kijiji I suspect your window is "Perspex" or similar and could be repaired and polished.
Me...I'd go for the Lexan. Especially for the front if you have no gravel guard.
Good luck with the repair.
FWIW, I almost bought an early Trill at an auction two years back...serial # 600 or thereabouts, but it looked like a LOT of work to restore. Yours looks awesome
Cheers from "down the 401"
Alistair

Thanks for the info.. I think I'll go towards the new lexan for both front & rear. I work with lexan at work for guarding & it is breakable if it's hit hard enough & at the right place but it'll be the best bet.

[Raya]

You might consider acrylic (i.e. Plexiglass) instead of polycarbonate (i.e. Lexan). Yes, Lexan is "bulletproof," but acrylic is (in my opinion) tough enough, and it's not prone to yellowing (in UV) or scratching as much as polycarbonate. There are grades/types of acrylic that are tougher than the basic stuff as well.

Raya

[Paul Richter]

You might consider acrylic (i.e. Plexiglass) instead of polycarbonate (i.e. Lexan). Yes, Lexan is "bulletproof," but acrylic is (in my opinion) tough enough, and it's not prone to yellowing (in UV) or scratching as much as polycarbonate. There are grades/types of acrylic that are tougher than the basic stuff as well.

Raya

When I go to the "Auto glass" place I'll check & see what the options are & make my suggestions to them as well. Thanks for everyone's suggestions any more are always
welcome...don't be shy