1973 Boler belly band gap? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-01-2016, 08:16 PM   #15
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Name: Jay
Trailer: Boler 1300
Ontario
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My Boler came to me with a vinyl belly band - the same trim that is around my door opening. I was not fond of the look and I wanted an aluminium one like everyone else, so I made my own. As JKM said the band covers the flange where the two halves of the shell come together. the band is riveted from the top into the flange and does not pass through the bottom of the aluminium channel. As for how close it is to the wall, I'd hate for you to do a close inspection of mine! The wall of a Boler is curved.
I am doubtful you will find it easy to change how close your band is to the wall. You have to put leverage on the aluminium channel to get it close to the wall so you can drill a hole through both the aluminium and the fiberglass flange (be sure to not let chuck of your drill hit the fiberglass) then you need to set your rivet (again you are working really close to the wall of the boler, don't let your gun scratch it). I am pretty particular and methodical and I have to say, I have more space in some stretches. That being said though, they don't bother me and I have no plans to try and do it again.
If you do try to remove and reset the belly band all of your rivet holes will shift alignment, you will need to glass in most of the holes in the flange.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Jay
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Old 07-01-2016, 09:40 PM   #16
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Name: dust in
Trailer: Boler Trailer
British Columbia
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Belly and the band

Hello Jay....Well I do understand that the band is a cap to hide the joining of the two halves. I am satisfied with that. Ah, and your logic in regards to the rivet holes as to when you remove the belly band and work the band tighter to the body the holes will change in the flange of the body. I would use an offset chuck to do any boring. Most of the issue and its not really a big one is the band in the curves . The band stands out from the body flange to the point that the rivets do not connect with the aluminum band. I would like to suck it in enough to make that happen. Also I understand about filling the old holes. well I am not quite ready to do this job yet but hopefully next month. Its all merely maintenance and sprucing up the ol girl. I will let you know how this all turns out . Thanks again for your input.
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:26 AM   #17
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Trailer: Boler 1984
Ontario
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When refinishing our boler and had the band off, I took a small block of wood the same size as the narrowest section of the belly band and scribed a line around the trailer. Then using an electric drill with an abrasive disc, I reduced the band to an even thickness. I filled the gap with fiberglass seam filler and then re attached the aluminum band starting at the door and cut it to fit where the sections met. It helps to place a small thin piece of sheet metal against the trailer so that you don't scrape the side when drilling holes for the rivets.


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Old 07-04-2016, 06:36 AM   #18
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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You may find the flange on the body are different amounts all around the body. Perhaps the belly band is as tight to the body as it will go in some places without grinding down the fiberglass. You'll only know that once the belly band is off.
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:24 AM   #19
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Name: dust in
Trailer: Boler Trailer
British Columbia
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Belly and the band

Yes that is a good approach you took with scribing the flange . Also protecting the body when grinding. You have ironed out my assessments I now have a better idea how to approach my plan. Thanks so much for that. Good tips.
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Old 07-04-2016, 11:34 AM   #20
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I think that the technician manufacturing the trailer just eyeballed the flange width as it measured anywhere from 3/4 inch to 1 1/2 inches.


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