1973 Boler belly band gap? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:02 PM   #1
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Name: Chris & Sarah
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Manitoba
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1973 Boler belly band gap?

I washed the Boler for the first time today - LOTS of dirt running off it! I noticed that the belly band was snugged right up to the frame in some areas but in others, there was about 1cm in between the band and the Boler itself. Is this normal or an indication of a problem?

Speaking of the belly band, how does water drain off of it? It seems like it would just collect on that little ledge...?

Thanks for any thoughts or opinions!

Sarah
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:05 PM   #2
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The belly band is strictly cosmetic. On my Scamp, there's a band of caulk around the top to keep dust/dirt/mold/pine needles from filling the gaps.
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:34 PM   #3
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Really?! Wow, I'm learning something new every day! I assumed it was what was holding the top to the bottom!

So, I could definitely put some caulk in the smaller gaps, but what do you think about putting it in the bigger gaps? I feel like that would be a lot of caulking...
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:30 PM   #4
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Butyl "tape" from ordinary hardware stores comes in several sizes, from very narrow indeed to more than 1/2" wide. I'd use Butyl tape in whatever color matches best, white, gray, or black, and just push and push it in (after cleaning and letting it dry, of course.) In a house I'd use rope caulk (don't know if they're quite the same thing).

Others may have better advice.
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:35 PM   #5
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Well, we just bought fairly wide butyl putty tape in what seems to be a lifetime-supply size, so once we've put in the vent and redone the windows, I'll do that.

Thanks for the idea!
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChriSarah View Post
Well, we just bought fairly wide butyl putty tape in what seems to be a lifetime-supply size, so once we've put in the vent and redone the windows, I'll do that.

Thanks for the idea!

Most welcome -- it's always sweet when you have the product anyway!
Hope it works out great!
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:39 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
The belly band is strictly cosmetic. On my Scamp, there's a band of caulk around the top to keep dust/dirt/mold/pine needles from filling the gaps.
Kinda, sorta, not really.

The Boler/Scamp consists of a top and a bottom. The joint of these two fiberglass pieces is secured by rivets and covered by the belly band. The belly band is just a cover to pretty up the joint.

Yes, dirt and debris does tend to gather on the top side. Nothing more than flushing it out with a spray of water is usually required. You could fill up the top gap behind the belly band with caulking but, in the long term, it will likely cause more work as the caulking will deteriorate over time allowing dirt to get in behind the caulking.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:49 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jkmboler View Post
Yes, dirt and debris does tend to gather on the top side. Nothing more than flushing it out with a spray of water is usually required. You could fill up the top gap behind the belly band with caulking but, in the long term, it will likely cause more work as the caulking will deteriorate over time allowing dirt to get in behind the caulking.
True, it depends on how the trailer is stored when not in use. Mine is under a carport. Caulk is just as good as the day I bought it in 2002. I actually started picking at it, as thought I could do a better job than what's there. It should come up easily (she says in fine print), because it's NOT silicone.
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Old 06-26-2016, 07:35 PM   #9
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I have taken some time to check out some of the issues around the Belly Band on my 73 Boler. Noticed too that the Belly Band was it seems not really placed well around the trailer when put on. Seems the gap around the trailer shell and the band is irregular. Perhaps some one had removed it at some time but it is hard to tell really. Any way my question is, if the belly band was put on with rivets those rivets do not go right through the belly band just show on the top. How would they attach the rivets and the belly to the rivets? Any one have any experience with removing then reattaching the Belly Band. Also I wondered about debris on the top around the belly band and you have to wash the area on top often to keep it clean . The fella before me who owned the Boler applied caulking but don't thing that is a good idea as it fails eventually due to weather and flexing of the trailer. Any other posts on this subject would be appreciated.
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:30 PM   #10
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Two years ago, I was at the Scamp factory in Minnesota, picking up some parts I needed.

While there, I also had the opportunity to tour the assembly plant.

After the belly band was installed, they would run a bead of white RTV silicone between the top side of the belly band and camper. They were also using the same white RTV silicone to seal the windows.
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:57 PM   #11
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Jkm...thankyou for your input and I will remember the information....I am not sure if it is absolutely necessary to lace the valley with a form of caulking for any other reason then to make a easy path for water to not stay. I understand some folks have mentioned that the Band is only for aesthetics. Still maybe the only way I will really understand the Belly Band Theory is to carefully remove it although again I am unsure exactly how to re install the thing as I say those rivets only come through the top of the Band not underneath at least that is the way it is on mine. I just do not want to make more holes . Would want to reattach the Belly Band the way it was originally done if possible. The whole reason for me to remove it would be to make it snug up closer to the inside lip of two halves. I do believe that that was not done originally when installed. Its just a fine point I would like to address.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:00 AM   #12
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When / If you remove the belly band, you will find there is a fiberglass flange sticking out from the trailer (this is what the belly band covers). This fiberglass flange is where the upper and lower halves of the trailer is joined. This connection of the upper and lower halves is fiberglassed at the flange and from the inside at the seam.

The rivets holding the belly band on are secured into this flange and do not penetrate the camper. If you remove the belly band, you should be able to trim the flange in the places where the belly band does not fit up against the trailer. You may have to do a bit of fiberglass repair to fill up existing rivet holes and when you reinstall the belly band, you will have to redrill holes for new rivets in some places.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:14 AM   #13
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I have this exact same problem. It seems that where it goes around the corners of the trailer, the aluminum doesn't closely follow the curve of the fg.
I've read about others who have taken the band off, though I haven't done it yet myself. If you do decide to remove it, that would be a good opportunity to check the fiberglass seam for signs of leaking.
When I decide to take it off, it will be in sync with a number of projects that benefit, like polishing the aluminum and a new paint job, so it's way down the list for me.

One thing puzzles me- unless the belly band came from the factory that way, how the heck did it get so out of shape?
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Old 07-01-2016, 05:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmboler View Post
Kinda, sorta, not really.

The Boler/Scamp consists of a top and a bottom. The joint of these two fiberglass pieces is secured by rivets and covered by the belly band. The belly band is just a cover to pretty up the joint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmboler View Post
This connection of the upper and lower halves is fiberglassed at the flange and from the inside at the seam.
I'm glad you corrected yourself about the rivets.
Most are just glassed from the inside.
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:16 PM   #15
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My Boler came to me with a vinyl belly band - the same trim that is around my door opening. I was not fond of the look and I wanted an aluminium one like everyone else, so I made my own. As JKM said the band covers the flange where the two halves of the shell come together. the band is riveted from the top into the flange and does not pass through the bottom of the aluminium channel. As for how close it is to the wall, I'd hate for you to do a close inspection of mine! The wall of a Boler is curved.
I am doubtful you will find it easy to change how close your band is to the wall. You have to put leverage on the aluminium channel to get it close to the wall so you can drill a hole through both the aluminium and the fiberglass flange (be sure to not let chuck of your drill hit the fiberglass) then you need to set your rivet (again you are working really close to the wall of the boler, don't let your gun scratch it). I am pretty particular and methodical and I have to say, I have more space in some stretches. That being said though, they don't bother me and I have no plans to try and do it again.
If you do try to remove and reset the belly band all of your rivet holes will shift alignment, you will need to glass in most of the holes in the flange.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
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Old 07-01-2016, 08:40 PM   #16
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Belly and the band

Hello Jay....Well I do understand that the band is a cap to hide the joining of the two halves. I am satisfied with that. Ah, and your logic in regards to the rivet holes as to when you remove the belly band and work the band tighter to the body the holes will change in the flange of the body. I would use an offset chuck to do any boring. Most of the issue and its not really a big one is the band in the curves . The band stands out from the body flange to the point that the rivets do not connect with the aluminum band. I would like to suck it in enough to make that happen. Also I understand about filling the old holes. well I am not quite ready to do this job yet but hopefully next month. Its all merely maintenance and sprucing up the ol girl. I will let you know how this all turns out . Thanks again for your input.
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Old 07-04-2016, 05:26 AM   #17
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When refinishing our boler and had the band off, I took a small block of wood the same size as the narrowest section of the belly band and scribed a line around the trailer. Then using an electric drill with an abrasive disc, I reduced the band to an even thickness. I filled the gap with fiberglass seam filler and then re attached the aluminum band starting at the door and cut it to fit where the sections met. It helps to place a small thin piece of sheet metal against the trailer so that you don't scrape the side when drilling holes for the rivets.


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Old 07-04-2016, 05:36 AM   #18
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You may find the flange on the body are different amounts all around the body. Perhaps the belly band is as tight to the body as it will go in some places without grinding down the fiberglass. You'll only know that once the belly band is off.
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:24 AM   #19
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Belly and the band

Yes that is a good approach you took with scribing the flange . Also protecting the body when grinding. You have ironed out my assessments I now have a better idea how to approach my plan. Thanks so much for that. Good tips.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:34 AM   #20
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I think that the technician manufacturing the trailer just eyeballed the flange width as it measured anywhere from 3/4 inch to 1 1/2 inches.


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