1976 Trillium Jubilee window trim and furnace - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-07-2016, 10:55 PM   #1
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Name: Trevor
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Alberta
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1976 Trillium Jubilee window trim and furnace

Hi, my name is Trevor Isaac and I am new to this website. I own a 1976 Trillium Jubilee (15'). I need to replace some exterior black plastic window trim. I will attach a picture of what it looks like. It has a groove on the backside of it. Does anyone have any of this? I only need enough for 1 window. Also my furnace is having issues. When I go to light the pilot light, the flame does not light the end like its supposed to. The flame kind of goes sideways before it reaches the end. I went to go and remove the furnace but found out it is built into the cabinets and will have to cut out the panel next to it to get at the wiring and piping to remove it. Anyone have any suggestions? I already replaced the regulator on the outside and blew out the lines.
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Old 06-08-2016, 08:35 AM   #2
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Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
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You can get it online, or maybe your local RV store can order some for you if they don't already carry it.

AP Products Black 8' Insert Trim for Hehr Window/Doors - Insert Trim - Exterior - Hardware

All of mine have been removed when I resealed the windows, and I think I may never put them back.

Not sure about your furnace, I tried mine once when I got the trailer last year, it wouldn't light up, I suspect a bad thermocouple.
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:32 PM   #3
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Trevor, what model is your furnace?
Mine is a Coleman ST-200 model 4312.

I'm in the process or redoing my galley. I've already taken the range out, as there was some issues with it, and I need to replace the counter top. I'll have more details on this eventually.

Now I was reading on this forum how a member had to take his galley on his apart on his Jubilee to pull his furnace out because it wasn't working. I bought my trailer last summer, and I tried once to light it up and the pilot wouldn't stay lit. I didn't like having to dismantle the galley to pull the heater out right after having rebuilt it. So I decided to fix my furnace right away before going forward with the galley rebuilt.

Only after I took the entire unit out did I find that the furnace is designed to be slid out out of its casing for maintenance purposes. I guess I should have read the owners manual first (it is in the document center of the forum) it is plainly explained...
I found that the pilot flame was not right. It looked like the flame wasn't coming from the tip of the burner, but off the side. Looked like a loose fitting and the gas was leaking at the base of the burner instead of the tip of the burner. The thermocouple wasn't getting much heat and wasn't able able to keep the gas valve open. So as soon as I let the start button go, the pilot went out.

So I took the pilot burner off the heat exchanger assembly. Then I found that the pilot burner was completely clogged with some dirt or rust. The flame was actually coming out of the air intake holes on the side of the burner. I cleaned it up thoroughly, and luckily the orifice wasn't clogged, so once I reinstalled everything I got a nice blue and stable flame, right at the burner tip, and right on the thermocouple. This time the valve stayed open, and the pilot stayed lit. Then I shorted the thermostat wires (simulating a closing thermostat), the main gas valve opened, and poof, the main burner lit !! Again, nice blue flame, and a few seconds later the fan kicked in as it should, and my heater was working like new!

So check your pilot burner, give it a good cleanup, spray some carb or brake cleaner in the orifice and make sure it isn't clogged (it's a really tiny calibrated hole, don't insert anything in there to clean it up).

I'll have pictures and details on my 5500 thread shortly.
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:31 PM   #4
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Name: Trevor
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Thanks Carl form all your advice! Sorry for taking so long to reply back to you. What do you mean when you say galley? Is that your cabinets? I will definitely be checking the manual here on the forum. Thank you for directing me there. I do not want to have to cut a hole in my cabinet gable to fix this problem. It sounds like you and I have the exact same problem with the pilot light. You described it exactly the way mine is. So you are saying I can slide the furnace right out and fix this? That would be so great if I could.
Trevor
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:40 PM   #5
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Well if it's a Coleman ST-200, yes, a couple screws to remove, wires to disconnect, and the whole thing slides right out. The outer metal casing stays in the cabinet.
The manual for this heater is in the document center of the forum.
But most of the time, when the pilot won't stay lit, the thermocouple is the culprit. It is either faulty and needs to be replaced, or sometimes the connections have slightly corroded, and this causes enough electrical resistance to prevent the gas valve from staying open.
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:24 AM   #6
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Welcome Travor.

A little history to be confirmed by other members.
I owned a Trillium Jubilee for 7 years, replaced last year.
The story I heard all the time so far, is that Trillium Jubilee is the latest model 15 'that Trilium built only in 80-81 years.
It is square and has no inside fiberglass module, all modules are wood and modeled ...

For your furnace, so that's the model ST200 like I had, you will find here documents that you can download into your computer as references.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...do=file&id=223

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...do=file&id=222

I once had a problem with this founaise and it was a supply pipe between the pilot and control the fire, he was worn out by the vibration on another piece adjescente.

The technician told me he had many difficulties to disconnect the chimney of the founaise.
He had, by the outside work to remove the chimney to get out of the furnace from the inside.

Regarding articles propane, I do not fix myself these devices, there are too many unknowns in these little control, I love life too much, so I go to my propane specialist to do repairs.

Good renovations.
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:53 AM   #7
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For window trim, I have no difficulty finding, in a trailer dealer.

You can do a research on this site, to find a dealer near You :
GO-RV.com - RV On-line Catalog
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Old 06-18-2016, 05:05 PM   #8
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Thanks Gilles for all your advice. So this furnace is meant to slide out of the outer housing according to the manual. How does it disconnect from the chimney? I want to tackle this project on Monday and want to make sure I am removing this furnace properly. The manual doesn't explain fully how to remove it. It just says there are 4 screws to remove. Does it just slide out of the chimney pipe?
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Old 06-18-2016, 05:08 PM   #9
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Hi Carl,
So it turns out that I have the same furnace. Does this furnace just slide out of the chimney pipe?
Trevor
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:28 PM   #10
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Yes, you just pull it towards you, the chimney consists of two "oval tubes" that slide one into the other. One part is attached to the trailer wall and will remain in place, the other will come out with the heater internals when you pull on it. That's the way it's going to separate wether you just pull the inside part out or do like I did and pull the entire unit out - outer casing included.
At least that's how mine is made. I guess if there is a lot of dirt or maybe rust, both part of the exhaust tube could be stuck together, I don't know. This wasn't an issue on mine.
Note that pulling the whole thing out with the casing like I did isn't much more difficult. Still just about 4 screws to remove and out it goes. This might even be the best thing to do as it give the opportunity to clean and maybe repaint the outer case, and maybe clean or inspect the bottom of the cabinet.

Here's a link to my blog. It's in French but translated by Google Translate. Translation isn't perfect but you'll get the point. The first part is mostly about my gas range, scroll down and you'll get to the furnace part.
https://translate.google.com/transla...-text=&act=url

I'll try to post a better english version on my thread on this board when I have a minute.
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