1977 axle question

[TomE]

I have a 1977 13 ft. scamp with a very low riding stance. On the bounce test there is no movement. I plan on replacing the axle. Should I get a leading arm 22.5 degree down angle 4 lug hub or a trailing 12 degree up angle 5 lug hub with brakes? How important are brakes on a 13 ft. scamp. My present axle has 4 lug hub. Scamp parts store has the leading arm without brakes for $310.00 + shipping and the trailing with brakes for $445.00 + shipping. My TV is a 2003 Honda Element. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

[RussL]

Hi Tom,

I have a Boler and not a Scamp but I think the frame/axle configuration is very similar. I converted from a leading to trailing configuration with brakes last year (with a lot of great information from Roy's thread here).

It certainly seems like Scamp would know what to recommend but I'm really surprised that they spec an up angle for the trailing configuration. I went with a 0 degree angle on mine and I actually wish I would have specified 10 degree down to gain just a little more ride height. I'm very happy with where mine rides now but I'm thinking it will settle a bit over the coming years.

That said I'd definitely recommend the brakes. I tow with an Element too and I feel much more comfortable with the additional braking from the trailer. I believe you can add brakes to a leading axle just as you can a trailing axle as long as it has the mounting flanges.

Russ

[Donna D.]

Brakes! No matter what axle you get. I'd go with five lug hubs... wheels are more readily available. YMMV

[TomE]

Originally Posted by RussL

Hi Tom,

I have a Boler and not a Scamp but I think the frame/axle configuration is very similar. I converted from a leading to trailing configuration with brakes last year (with a lot of great information from Roy's thread here).

It certainly seems like Scamp would know what to recommend but I'm really surprised that they spec an up angle for the trailing configuration. I went with a 0 degree angle on mine and I actually wish I would have specified 10 degree down to gain just a little more ride height. I'm very happy with where mine rides now but I'm thinking it will settle a bit over the coming years.

That said I'd definitely recommend the brakes. I tow with an Element too and I feel much more comfortable with the additional braking from the trailer. I believe you can add brakes to a leading axle just as you can a trailing axle as long as it has the mounting flanges.

Russ

Hi Russ,

Thanks for your advise. What were the specifications on the axle you used (hub to hub length and etc.)? Did you order directly from Dexter? What size tires did you put on the new axle? Did you have to make any mods to install axle or did you weld it directly where the old axle was removed? How high did the new axle raise the dody of the trailer? You can PM me if you wish.

[HikeSticks]

I agree with Donna; brakes are a must on whichever axle you get. I received my 13' Trillium without brakes and I thought it stopped quite well. Listening to the advice I received I had new brakes installed; what a difference.
Enjoy!
Barrie

[RussL]

Originally Posted by TomE

Hi Russ,

Thanks for your advise. What were the specifications on the axle you used (hub to hub length and etc.)? Did you order directly from Dexter? What size tires did you put on the new axle? Did you have to make any mods to install axle or did you weld it directly where the old axle was removed? How high did the new axle raise the body of the trailer? You can PM me if you wish.

I ended up stealing the specifications from Roy's thread mentioned earlier except that I believe he went with a 50" frame spacing where I went 49". I did the same thing he did in shifting the axle a bit to center it under the body. The mods required to switch from leading to trailing mainly involved attaching some 2"x3" rectangular tubing underneath the frame in order to attach the axle underneath the dropped floor section rather than behind it. I probably went overboard with this, extending them well back on the frame to help strengthen it where it cantilevers out the back.

I'm using 175/80/13 tires on aluminum wheels. Those ended up being about 2" larger diameter than the 145s that were on the trailer when I bought it. I think I ended up about 4" higher than when I began which actually works out pretty well because I can still get the trailer under my 7' garage door by letting most of the air out of the tires. I had made some small plywood wheels to facilitate that but they ended up not being necessary.

I bought the axle from Redneck Trailer. They have a location not far from me and I was able to call in the order and pick it up from them a couple weeks later. I think it ended up being $410. That was with brakes and EZLube hubs.

Attached are some pictures showing before and after. I had the frame out from under the body to do this and several other modifications so it wasn't a bad project.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Russ

[TomE]

Thanks Russl and Donna for your comments! I have decided to try a local trailer builder near me and am planning on getting brakes put on the trailer. I will either go with a trailing arm if he already has one in stock or order the leading arm with brakes from Scamp. Thanks for everybody's help.

[Borden]

I do agree for any load over 500 lbs brakes are a good idea. I takes a lot to stop without them.

[LukeP]

Can I add a question to this thread?! I too am replacing my '72 Boler American's axle, a local frame/axle shop is quoting out a dexter axle with brakes. They wanted to know if I wanted a 2000 lb axle (they assumed this was load of the original that's on it), 2500lb, or 3500lb. I don't know my way around axles, but I would guess too big and it'll be very rough. Any recommendations? And/or, what did you folks go with? Thanks!

[Kevin K]

Before

After

22.5 degrees trailing arm This makes my hitch the perfect height for my truck.

[Lizbeth]

Originally Posted by LukeP

Can I add a question to this thread?! I too am replacing my '72 Boler American's axle, a local frame/axle shop is quoting out a dexter axle with brakes. They wanted to know if I wanted a 2000 lb axle (they assumed this was load of the original that's on it), 2500lb, or 3500lb. I don't know my way around axles, but I would guess too big and it'll be very rough. Any recommendations? And/or, what did you folks go with? Thanks!

I'd have them weigh the trailer and go from there. That said I would probably go with the 2500.

[RussL]

Originally Posted by LukeP

Can I add a question to this thread?! I too am replacing my '72 Boler American's axle, a local frame/axle shop is quoting out a dexter axle with brakes. They wanted to know if I wanted a 2000 lb axle (they assumed this was load of the original that's on it), 2500lb, or 3500lb. I don't know my way around axles, but I would guess too big and it'll be very rough. Any recommendations? And/or, what did you folks go with? Thanks!

Things could have changed since I purchased my axle but if I remember correctly the Dexter #9 axle maxes out at a 2200lb rating. If they're quoting higher than that I'm guessing they're stepping up to a different model from Dexter.

I don't know for sure if this is the case but I'm wondering if a larger model will have the same sizing specs as the #9. It could be a little tougher to adapt and fit. The thing you would gain is 10" brakes versus the 7" brakes on the #9 axle but you're correct that it could make for a rough ride.

I believe the older Scamps and Bolers used a 1250 or 1500lb version of the #9 axle but I've heard that Scamp now uses the 2200lb rating. That's what I went with for mine and the ride seems to be good.

Russ