1977 Scamp - Need help with Door and Body Sag - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-21-2016, 10:29 PM   #1
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Name: James
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
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1977 Scamp - Need help with Door and Body Sag

I have been searching and reading for a while.
Learned a lot about door corrections, but not much on the body sag itself.

The previous owner removed the wrought iron support beam on the counter-top. For $18, you better believe I am ordering a replacement from scamp pronto!

I did notice that the cabinet has a slight separation from the body in the upper left. Before I look at the door, I want to get the shell stable and back into shape if possible.
Are there any specific jacking points? The holes on the cabinet are filled over, so I will have to take my best guess as the where to place the supports.

There are also two holes that look like you would have riveted some kind of cabinet mounting hardware too? Not the best photo, but you can see the area in the upper right.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...t0Vm9YSkpfUzln



I have also seem some attempts with ratchet straps to pull in the sides?
I tried searching, but ended up lost in a sea of threads that didn't have the info I want. It's quite possible I have no idea how to search correctly.

So, sorry in advance if this is already covered a million times.

Let me know if any other photos or measurements would help out.

Thanks!
-Jamie. Scamp Owner 28 hours and counting....
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:42 PM   #2
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Name: James
Trailer: Scamp
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And I just found this thread...
Improving door fit due to body sag

I guess on a good note, mine doesn't have near the same issues this guy did
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:31 AM   #3
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Hi James, yes the cabinet supports are needed for the shell shape. The standard wrought iron ones don't have to be used though. Many folks have used other material to do the job that let them add shelves or cubbies ect. Someone with the same unit should be able to give you the correct stock distance between the base and upper cabinet.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:40 AM   #4
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Actually, I don't mind the look of the iron ones. I think I might be the odd one out based on the number of modifications I've seen done.

That dimension would be great! I can give it a push, and see everything move up nicely and appear to be back in line.
I looked closer at the door, and it looks like I'm about 1" lower than I should be.
Looking like i'll just have to drill some new holes and remount for that one.

Can anyone with a scamp get me a dimension?
The more the merrier. I am assuming there will be some deviation between scamps.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:26 AM   #5
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Scamp 13 or 16? As far as I know pre-2006 units had different height.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:12 PM   #6
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It's a 1977 13 ft.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:29 PM   #7
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James, on my 1978 13' Scamp the distance between the counter top, (next to the sink), and the bottom of the upper kitchen cabinet, (above the sink) is 19.5-inches.

I certainly wouldn't suggest that this is the correct measure because the slightest misalignment of the two cabinets would change the measurement.

However, I did remove my lower kitchen cabinet for several months and the steel support mounting holes did lined up properly when i re-installed the lower cabinet.

Bill
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:59 PM   #8
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I'm having the same issue, but can't upload a picture because there is only a blue box where the photo is supposed to be in my files. My files do not have a URL, nor can I copy and paste into this message.

My problem is separation between the wall with the door hinges and the bench. The gap is under the support bar. The gap is as wide as the support bar. When I use a clamp to hold it together, the door straightens out. I can't see any frame damage or any reason why the body would be twisted to cause this gap. I would love a suggestion on how to pull the body back against the bench to get the door aligned correctly.

I plan to take it to a trailer sales and service place on Friday, but was hoping for a suggestion or two that I could give the repair guys to look at.

Thanks, Jamie
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdconnel View Post
I have been searching and reading for a while.
Learned a lot about door corrections, but not much on the body sag itself.

The previous owner removed the wrought iron support beam on the counter-top. For $18, you better believe I am ordering a replacement from scamp pronto!

I did notice that the cabinet has a slight separation from the body in the upper left. Before I look at the door, I want to get the shell stable and back into shape if possible.
Are there any specific jacking points? The holes on the cabinet are filled over, so I will have to take my best guess as the where to place the supports.

There are also two holes that look like you would have riveted some kind of cabinet mounting hardware too? Not the best photo, but you can see the area in the upper right.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...t0Vm9YSkpfUzln



I have also seem some attempts with ratchet straps to pull in the sides?
I tried searching, but ended up lost in a sea of threads that didn't have the info I want. It's quite possible I have no idea how to search correctly.

So, sorry in advance if this is already covered a million times.

Let me know if any other photos or measurements would help out.

Thanks!
-Jamie. Scamp Owner 28 hours and counting....
James,
You need to carefully evaluate the body (for bowing) and the roof for sagging. From your part of the country snow loads could have magnified this problem. Do you notice any pooling of water on the roof or does it run off well in all areas? This can indicate if the roof needs to be jacked up and reinforced. Some reno here have used supports glassed or epoxied to the inner shell to help straiten out these issues. I glassed in extra matte to the inside roof to strengthen the roof for a similar issue. The iron supports should help a lot. Also the body is usually glassed to the floors all the way around top and bottom and if there is any rot in the floors they can sag adding to the problem of body distortion. Also, the door itself can loose its shape even if the body still the correct shape. My door had a wood center that had rotten out from water leakage in the door window and was nothing but mushy wood pulp allowing the door to flex at the bottom and the top. I ended up making a hand bent metal frame (using conduit) matched to the door frame and bonded it to the door with a 2 part epoxy. It now is a perfect fit. BTW, got the fiberglass fixtures bundled & taped ready for pickup.
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