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08-25-2013, 08:17 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Flat
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Utah
Posts: 16
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1978 Trillium Rock Guard Replacement
Hi All.
I have a 1978 Trillium 4500 that I would like to replace the front rock guard on. Is there a source or recommendation for material to use. I could come up with a couple of possibilities, but no point reinventing the wheel if someone has been down this road.
Thank you.
Flat.
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08-25-2013, 10:03 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: Flat
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Utah
Posts: 16
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Thanks for that Charlie,
I should have been more clear. My rock guard is actually in tact, its just the fiberglass portion that has gone south. Its really brittle and all of the fibers are sticking out. One thing is certain, if you rub against it, you get fiberglass in your clothes.
So the plan is to drill out the detents that hold the frame together, disassemble, and insert new panels. Then I'll reassemble the whole thing.
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08-25-2013, 10:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Sounds good.
Some have reported that the Grizzly Grip (a thin bedliner type material) they've used on the lower front to cover and prevent chips is a good colour match. You could do both the lower front and rock guard and have it look like they belonged together.
Top it off with the potential production of a replacement rock guard decal and the Zep finish and it'll be looking great.
Have a look at this thread: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...als-60507.html
And if we get enough pre order interest for tire covers and propane tank orders Tom from TrilliumRV says he will get some made with the blue logos.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ers-60506.html (shameless plug)
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08-25-2013, 10:54 PM
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#5
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfendershop
Thanks for that Charlie,
I should have been more clear. My rock guard is actually in tact, its just the fiberglass portion that has gone south. Its really brittle and all of the fibers are sticking out. One thing is certain, if you rub against it, you get fiberglass in your clothes.
So the plan is to drill out the detents that hold the frame together, disassemble, and insert new panels. Then I'll reassemble the whole thing.
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You might consider just having an auto body shop clean up and refinish the existing panels - shouldn't cost much to drop another layer of fiberglass on top once they're cleaned up.
Charlie Y
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08-25-2013, 10:59 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfendershop
My rock guard is actually in tact, its just the fiberglass portion that has gone south. Its really brittle and all of the fibers are sticking out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1
clean up and refinish the existing panels - shouldn't cost much to drop another layer of fiberglass on top once they're cleaned up.
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That was my 1st thought, but I was not sure if it would address the brittleness.
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08-26-2013, 12:28 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Trillium rockguard
Welcome to FGRV.
Or you could pop down to Florence, AZ just south of Phoenix and buy a new replacement:
Parts | Trillium RV
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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08-26-2013, 04:37 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H
Welcome to FGRV.
Or you could pop down to Florence, AZ just south of Phoenix and buy a new replacement:
Parts | Trillium RV
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Are you sure they are still there? This looks like a US Trillium but has the name of a Canadian manufacturer on the back.
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08-26-2013, 08:02 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Randy J.
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 154
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Rock Guard Solutions
Here is a solution that I considered for our 1976 1300. This company has opaque acrylic and also ABS in a couple of thickness choices and will cut it to size. Prices seem reasonable. Translucent and Opaque Colored Acrylic Sheets : TAP Plastics
I needed to get our trailer on the road in a hurry, however, and so opted for three sheets of painted aluminum cut to size by a local sign-maker - not the most economical choice but timely. I've added the big Trillium decal from the new company to the center one.
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08-26-2013, 08:16 AM
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#10
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy J.
Here is a solution that I considered for our 1976 1300. This company has opaque acrylic and also ABS in a couple of thickness choices and will cut it to size. Prices seem reasonable. Translucent and Opaque Colored Acrylic Sheets : TAP Plastics
I needed to get our trailer on the road in a hurry, however, and so opted for three sheets of painted aluminum cut to size by a local sign-maker - not the most economical choice but timely. I've added the big Trillium decal from the new company to the center one.
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I work 95% of the time with ABS; be careful with using it outdoors as regular ABS will eventually yellow due to UV. There are grades that are specified as UV resistant for outdoor use - make sure you specify that for your outdoor uses.
Acrylic is an entirely different animal commonly used outdoors.
Charlie Y
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08-26-2013, 12:14 PM
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#11
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Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300; Invertec Falcon 190 class b rv
Washington
Posts: 75
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Rock Guard Replacement
Recently we were faced with the problem of replacing our rockguard on both front corners of our '76 Trillium 1300.
To have the front repainted at an autobody shop was $500-600 and there would be no guarantee we wouldn't have to do the same thing again in a couple of yrs.
We went with Line-X truck bed finish which cost $200 for both front corners and looks nice to our eyes. It is black on a dark grey bottom half color scheme of the trailer. It looks to be 1/8" in thickness and is a rubbery, bumpy finish which should help deflect rocks.
The Line-X folks were very helpful and carefully taped off the area to be coated according to our design request. Then the area was lighly sanded with 200 gr sandpaper, then the Line-X was sprayed on . The whole process took less than an hour and it was done. We also considered one of their polyurea finishes but it would have been thinner and less flexible to absorb rock hits.
For many, this type finish may not suit their aesthetics or color scheme, as the Line-X comes in limited colors. We are happy with the result. It is highly unlikely we will have to deal with rock chips in this area in the foreseable future.
If there had been any defects in the fiberglass before the Line-X was sprayed on, I would have fixed those first. We had to have the top repainted and one superficial crack repaired. They used an polyester fiberglass epoxy with microfibers for strength, then a bodo like compound to finish the surface before priming and painting.
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08-26-2013, 06:33 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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08-26-2013, 06:47 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 373
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...Here is my solution of rock-guard on Trillium 1300: Sand the ugly chipped paint area down and re-fill it with body filler. Any crack would be repaired by fiberglass mess and resin. After sanding all nicely, spraying a coat primer, then paint a thick coat of automobile rubber paint( when it 's dried, it becomes rubber) for under-neath autos, 50bucks a gallon, using big brush to paint. After all, I install a pipe storage from a big PVC pipe right in front,. Now I would say my rock guard is really guarding something. Enjoy the photo...
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09-01-2013, 10:28 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Flat
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Utah
Posts: 16
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These are all great ideas. Thank you for your input. I've put my name on the list for new decals from Trillium, so we'll see if that pans out.
My panels are pretty fuzzy with fiberglass, I'll try gently sanding them down and see if the surface looks paint-able. There might be some repair needed. I like the aluminum panel solution, would a good long-term fix and would hold paint well. The line x idea is good too, I hadn't thought of putting some protection on the lower flanks of the front of the camper.
Thanks for the link Donna, you're always great help.
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09-02-2013, 07:25 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Flat,
Another member put Grizzly Grip on their outback, it looks real good. A DIY thing rather than having someone spray it on for you. It comes in both fine and course, they used the course.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ded-51926.html
I asked the company for samples and the almond looks real close. I'm leaning towards the fine finish.
Grizzly Grip
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09-02-2013, 11:39 AM
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#16
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Member
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 33
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If the back side of those fuzzy panels are in good shape, which they probably are, you can flip them around good side out.
Of course this would require taking the frame apart. Worked well for me.
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09-10-2013, 12:12 PM
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#17
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Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300; Invertec Falcon 190 class b rv
Washington
Posts: 75
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Trillium Rock Guard - Line-X Bed Spray
Found a picture of the repaired rock guard and am posting it here. It covered the 2 front corners that were getting all the dings and this is the reason it is shaped the way it is. It cost $200 to have done and took 1 hr for them to do it. It worked especially well for us because the lower half was a dark brown that blended well with the black Line-X.
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09-11-2013, 07:30 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Name: Flat
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Utah
Posts: 16
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All good ideas, thanks for the input. I hadn't thought about putting something on the lower section but as I went out to look, there are quite a few chips there.
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