1985 scamper and camper: Advice on refrigerator, bunk beds, front window - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-30-2011, 10:19 AM   #1
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: 1985 Scamp
Georgia
Posts: 1
1985 scamper and camper: Advice on refrigerator, bunk beds, front window

Hi-
I am the proud owner of a 1985 13’ Scamp (I was born the same year as it was!). I am in the middle of trying to fix a few things that are not working correctly. I realize that my camper wont ever look like new, but I would like to find a balance between looking good, safety, and functionality. This is mostly my project as my husband is in the military and is gone quite a bit. The following are my problems:



Refrigerator-
My refrigerator (Dometic RM211, was working great all three ways till we cranked a little too hard on the switch knob with the dial (part number- 2002582-00/4). I just talked to Dometic service and they said that there was no way I was going to get a part for that old of a refrigerator and I would have to look into aftermarket parts. Any suggestions, or am I going to have to buy a new refrigerator. It currently still works on propane. I guess I could just keep it going on propane while camping. Is it safe to keep the refrigerator on propane while driving,- my concern is that the propane light will blow out while driving and I would be leaking gas. Is this a legitimate concern?


Bunk beds-
I bought all new cushions for the camper from scamp parts store. I also bought the rods for the bunk beds which have the rubber stoppers on the end… I am wondering if I am missing something as they don’t stay up very securely. I am not sure if people put kids up there or not? I have the back cushion secured with the hinges but all that is holding the top bunk up on the other end is by wedging the rods on both ends of the cushion. Am I missing something?



Front window-
I bought a new front window and rock chip cover. Is this something a fairly handy person can do or would you suggest taking it into a dealership?


Leaks-
There are a few leaks where things have been riveted through the camper wall. Any suggestions for a quick fix, but still looks ok on the outside.



I am sorry if these are all questions that more than likely can be found throughout the website. I will continue my search through the many forums, but thought it would be fun to post my first discussion.



Lisa
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:23 PM   #2
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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Lisa, welcome to FiberglassRV! Good for you "a balance between looking good, safety, and functionality" Remember, it doesn't need to be perfect... just perfect for you! (and of course, safe to go down the road.)

Check here replacement parts for your refrigerator RV Doctor George

On Edit: try these also
http://www.ericksonsrv.com/Parts.htm

http://www.myrvparks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1656

I'll leave the other questions to others.... but, once again WELCOME
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:06 AM   #3
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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The two posts are all that is needed along with the hinge to hold up the upper bunk and yes kids can sleep up there - I have actually slept up threre in a pinch - I wouldnt put anyone over 130lbs up there though - best to stay under 100lbs. The post need to be secure though - you should have two post holders mounted on the fiberglass below that the bottom of the post fit into and then hardware that is attached to the underside of the top bunk that the top of the post hooks into.

I see on Scamps part store they have a picture of the post holders but I dont see the top hardward that attaches to the top bunk. If you need a picture let me know and I can take one of mine tomorrow for you.

The mounting of the new rock guard and replacing the new window are not that hard to do - you will find lots of post here showing you how to do it correctly.

The only really good way of fixing your leaks is to drill out the rivits and replace them - any other fix is only temp if it actully works. Replacing the rivits is not as difficult as you may think. I have replaced a lot of mine myself.
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:41 PM   #4
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Trailer: former Boler, now 1980 Trillium 4500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyScamp View Post
Hi-
I am the proud owner of a 1985 13’ Scamp (I was born the same year as it was!). I am in the middle of trying to fix a few things that are not working correctly. I realize that my camper wont ever look like new, but I would like to find a balance between looking good, safety, and functionality. This is mostly my project as my husband is in the military and is gone quite a bit. The following are my problems:



Refrigerator-
My refrigerator (Dometic RM211, was working great all three ways till we cranked a little too hard on the switch knob with the dial (part number- 2002582-00/4). I just talked to Dometic service and they said that there was no way I was going to get a part for that old of a refrigerator and I would have to look into aftermarket parts. Any suggestions, or am I going to have to buy a new refrigerator. It currently still works on propane. I guess I could just keep it going on propane while camping. Is it safe to keep the refrigerator on propane while driving,- my concern is that the propane light will blow out while driving and I would be leaking gas. Is this a legitimate concern?


Lisa
Hi Lisa,

Hi Lisa,

Driving with propane running is a source of bitter disagreement on this and other forums. I believe that all states and provinces allow propane to be on while driving, other than on ferries, in some tunnels, and when refuelling at a gas station. I have personally run with propane on the fridge for many years and believe it is as safe as having gasoline in your car.

I have spent the past three weeks finding and fixing a problem with my Dometic RM211 fridge (same model as yours) blowing the flame out while driving. It worked fine while stationary, but would blow out the instant we started off. After much trial and error, I discovered that it was wind blowing into the upper vent that was the problem. I blew into the upper vent with a powerful leaf blower to find out that this was the problem. I removed the fridge and installed a sheet metal baffle that prevented the wind from getting to the burner exhaust tube (it has a 90 degree corner to help prevent flame blowout, but the wind was still getting down there) and that solved the problem.

In the process, I explored the flame safety mechanism, which relates to your question. I have posted a picture of the RM211 controls. You will see in the controls, between the gas thermostat and the gas tube to the burner, a vertical device with a blue push button at the bottom. This starts the gas flowing. When the burner is lit, the flame heats a thermocouple, which produces electricity that keeps that valve open. You can see the capillary tube from the thermocouple entering that same valve at the top; it looks like a gas tube but is not.

If the flame blows out, the thermocouple is no longer heated, the electrical current stops and the valve snaps shut, cutting off the gas. This makes sure that the gas shuts off if the flame blows out.

You can test this one way for sure, but easily get an indication otherwise. On my fridge, you can hear a pretty loud snap as the valve snaps shut after the flame is out. To test this, start the flame normally. If you can blow it out, great, but otherwise shut the gas flow off until the flame dies, then quickly turn the gas flow on again. After about 15 seconds (on mine), you should hear the valve snap shut as the thermocouple cools down.

You can test for sure with a manometer, which measures gas pressure. You can build your own accurate one for a couple of bucks by following this link here: http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html

Connect the manometer to the test point of the fridge, which in the RM211 is found at the hex head bolt in the picture, to the right of the gas safety valve. Start the gas flame normally and allow it to heat for a minute or so, then either blow out the flame or quickly shut it off and on again at the main gas valve. After several seconds of no flame with the gas running (you can see the gas pressure on the test point using the manometer), you will hear the same snap sound and the gas pressure will fall to zero. This conclusively shows that your flame safety switch is operating correctly.

Hope that helps.
Rick G
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:52 PM   #5
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Name: Rick
Trailer: former Boler, now 1980 Trillium 4500
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyScamp View Post
Hi-
I am the proud owner of a 1985 13’ Scamp (I was born the same year as it was!). I am in the middle of trying to fix a few things that are not working correctly. I realize that my camper wont ever look like new, but I would like to find a balance between looking good, safety, and functionality. This is mostly my project as my husband is in the military and is gone quite a bit. The following are my problems:



Refrigerator-
My refrigerator (Dometic RM211, was working great all three ways till we cranked a little too hard on the switch knob with the dial (part number- 2002582-00/4). I just talked to Dometic service and they said that there was no way I was going to get a part for that old of a refrigerator and I would have to look into aftermarket parts. Any suggestions, or am I going to have to buy a new refrigerator. It currently still works on propane. I guess I could just keep it going on propane while camping. Is it safe to keep the refrigerator on propane while driving,- my concern is that the propane light will blow out while driving and I would be leaking gas. Is this a legitimate concern?


Lisa
As for your three way switch, the RM211 uses 0.85 amps on 110 V and about 8 amps of current on 12V. Any 3 way switch that can handle those currents will do the job. A replacement Dometic part would be great to find, but the odds are against you.

If you are handy (and keeping safety in mind when dealing with electricity), I would pull the electrical control panel out (it has a screw terminal connection panel at the top inside that will let you disconnect the heater elements) and replace the broken switch with a standard 3 way, 15 amp toggle switch or any other switch that you can make fit. There is no magic in the particular switch used in the fridge, other than a safety design to prevent the gas from being run at the same time as the electricity. My previous Escort fridge in my old Boler used a standard 3 way toggle switch, with the center off position being the one you use when the gas is on. There is no reason you could not install a similar idea in your fridge, even if it did not fit the form factor. Of course, you have to make sure the switch terminals are not exposed, but I assume that if you are trying to get a replacement part then you are competent to install it. Other switch types, like rotating or push-pull, would also work as long as they can handle the voltage and current, which should not be a problem.

Rick G.
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