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Old 05-18-2013, 04:15 PM   #1
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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2 tongue jacks on 1 trailer?

My '79 Scamp 16 came with a typical tongue jack PLUS a swing down jack on the side of the tongue. Can anyone think of any reason to keep the swing jack installed? The only time it's been convenient (we haven't camped in the Scamp yet) has been when I wanted to attach a wheel to the front jack, when the trailer was not hitched to my van. I jacked up the swing down jack and raised the " main" jack and installed the wheel. I was then able to rotate the Scamp into a better parking position. Besides that, I see no reason to keep both on there. It's just added weight and more stuff in the way on an already to small tongue.
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:41 PM   #2
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:47 PM   #3
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If it is not in the way and doesn't bother you then I suggest you leave it there for a while and if you don't figure out why it is there in the first place then take it off. Then on your next camping trip you will undoubtlly find you needed it.
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:18 PM   #4
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Is the "typical" jack a stationary A-frame one?

If so, and if it were my trailer, that's the one I'd get rid of. Those things are a royal pain if one has an opening tailgate!

I much prefer the rotate-up tongue jack, which is safely/conveniently out of the way when not in use.

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Old 05-18-2013, 09:50 PM   #5
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I had the single center stationary one and added a wheel jack. Finally this past week I had the center one taken off (we were putting a spare tire carrier on.) I HAD used it once in awhile but not often, and mainly if I accidentally let the wheeljack fall. (And its just as easy to get someone to stand in back of the trailer and lift it as to use the other jack. Plus now the hatchback opens more easily.
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Is the "typical" jack a stationary A-frame one?
... Those things are a royal pain if one has an opening tailgate!

I much prefer the rotate-up tongue jack, which is safely/conveniently out of the way when not in use.
Okay, but it doesn't explain why anyone would have both, since the fixed one would still be in the way. The same logic applies to ground clearance: if the fixed jack is too low, it will still be too low when the pivoting one is swung up.

Our Sienna has a swing-up tailgate, but it does not hit the fixed A-frame jack on our Boler, so I don't find it to be any kind of pain at all. Damage on the end suggests that a previous owner dragged it at some point, but perhaps because they forgot to retract it all the way, since it has never been a clearance problem for us.
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ryan P R View Post
The only time it's been convenient (we haven't camped in the Scamp yet) has been when I wanted to attach a wheel to the front jack, when the trailer was not hitched to my van. I jacked up the swing down jack and raised the " main" jack and installed the wheel.
You don't need a second tongue jack to do this - a jackstand or common stabilizer stand (such as the common and very light Camco Stack Jack) can be used to do the same thing.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:08 AM   #8
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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The "typical" jack is a stationary A frame type, bolted on as is normal.

The swing down jack on the side is welded on.

I'll leave them both on until I start really trying to come up with a light weight tongue box solution that will fit my 20lb tank and HUGE battery.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:06 AM   #9
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Some swing downs are welded and some have U-bolt attachment around the frame member. Even the "welded" variety can be removed by detaching the jack body from the pivot. If you look closely, you may find a large snap ring securing the jack body to the pivot shaft. This snap ring can be sprung from its groove on the pivot shaft with snap ring pliers or a combination of an awl and screwdriver and the jack body will simply slip off the shaft. Nothing need be cut, ground, or destroyed, including the snap ring if you don't bend or break it and the process is reversible if you decide later that you would like to have use of the extra roller jack. I have one and don't like the potential to rack the frame. I removed it as described above and later reattached for very occasional use in a peculiar situation which others most likely haven't encountered.

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Old 05-20-2013, 09:41 AM   #10
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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Thx Jack Rabbit!

I have snap ring pliers, ill rake it off that way.
I was also concerned about the trailer weight being offset on the side of the tongue by the swing down jack. It seems that the A frame jack would provide a little better stability to the trailer while camping.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:48 AM   #11
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Best stability achieved using jack stands under both sides of the tongue or further back under the frame longitudinals.

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Old 05-20-2013, 10:33 AM   #12
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Name: Russ
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The second one could be used for weighing the tongue. It would aid in placing the scale under the jack. The weight would be off a little due to the distance of the jack to ball, but not probably significant for loading.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:30 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
The second one could be used for weighing the tongue. It would aid in placing the scale under the jack.
Sure, but it is still better to put a jackstand (like those cheap Stack Jacks, or an automotive service jack stand) under the coupler (on top of a scale) for weighing. Only one tongue jack needed.

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Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
The weight would be off a little due to the distance of the jack to ball, but not probably significant for loading.
If the jack is a foot back from the coupler, and it is 9 feet from the coupler to the axle, then weighing at the jack produces a reading 9/8 of the correct value (12% too high). You can correct for that, or consider it "not significant".
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:06 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Sure, but it is still better to put a jackstand (like those cheap Stack Jacks, or an automotive service jack stand) under the coupler (on top of a scale) for weighing. Only one tongue jack needed.
I didn't say it was the best or correct way to obtain tongue weight. It was an observation on what two tongue jacks could be used for.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:40 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
If the jack is a foot back from the coupler, and it is 9 feet from the coupler to the axle, then weighing at the jack produces a reading 9/8 of the correct value (12% too high). You can correct for that, or consider it "not significant".
Yes it's elementary math. I would just factor the indicated scale weight by .9 or so to get in the ballpark.

It has been recommended to put 10 to 15% of the trailer weight on the hitch. Is 15% too much or is 10% too little? It may or may not be significant depending on the ability of the tow vehicle to handle weight or control lateral motions. Every trailer tug combo should be field evaluated to see what works best. My Jeep doesn't know the difference between 270 or 350 lbs. It just doesn't like 250 lbs., as the tail wags the dog!
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