2013 Parkliner PowerVent Roof Leak - Fiberglass RV



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Old 03-28-2018, 04:35 PM   #1
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Name: Harry
Trailer: Parkliner
Virginia
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2013 Parkliner PowerVent Roof Leak

Hi,
I recently bought a used Parkliner 15 that has sprung a roof leak at the front right corner of the power vent. I have not been able to stop the leak to date. Last attempt involved putting weatherproof tape around the entire perimeter of the housing/roof joint. As both front corners of the Fantastic Vent plastic housing are cracked, I want to replace the entire vent assembly. The original is pop riveted to the roof. I do not want to use pop rivets. Any suggestions?
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Old 03-28-2018, 10:33 PM   #2
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Hi, I am not familiar with the roof of the Parkliner, but if the fantastic fan housing was broken, either the roof has been flexing, or the previous owner hit it on a branch. Our Scamp used a wooden spacer between the roof and the fan. This spacer was shapped to to match the compound curves of the Scamp roof. The spacer had butyl tape between it and the roof, and was secured by screws from the inside into the wood of the spacer. The fan was then screwed to the wooden spacer with butyl tape sandwiched between. This spacer would stiffen the thin fiberglass roof and not flex the fanís framing. Hope this can be used for your application.
Dave & Paula
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:55 AM   #3
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Dave & Paula,
Thanks for your reply. My Parkliner actually has a wood spacer/trim on the inside of the opening. I had considered securely attaching this to the fiberglass roof, then using screws on the outside down into this wood. I was concerned of the possibility of the screws working loose over time. Have your screws into the wood stayed tight?
Harry
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:19 AM   #4
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Harry - I experienced a similar problem in our 2014 PL shortly after our purchase 2 years ago; however ours only had one cracked corner and the caulking was so loose I pulled it off with my fingers. I just cleaned it up and used the 4" Dicor sealing tape on all four sides. Quick, easy and no leaks!
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:48 AM   #5
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Name: Tom
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I am curious why you think pop rivets are not well suited here? Although, I am not insisting that they are.
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:15 AM   #6
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More to my concern what caused the corners of the housing to snap off?
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:24 AM   #7
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:39 AM   #8
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Name: bob
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George; maybe too much pressure by the pop rivets. With a screw you can control how much pressure to put on an area, but the pop rivet takes a set amount of tension to set it, and may be too much for the vent's flange. With caulk or butyl tape under the vent flange it will allow for some compression distortion of the area.
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Old 03-29-2018, 12:10 PM   #9
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Good answer.
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:08 PM   #10
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My exact thoughts..
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Old 06-09-2018, 02:17 PM   #11
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Name: Aaron
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If you plan on replacing the fan , there would be no issues with using screw, what is the MFG date of your Parkliner and I can most likely tell you what sealant is used on your Parkliner
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:45 PM   #12
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Name: Harry
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Virginia
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What I did

Here is what I did to fix the leaking roof power vent on my 2013 Parkliner. I purchased the same model power vent as came on the trailer to ensure the holes would be the same spacing. I also got the CAMCO Universal vent install kit for metal/fiberglass #25003 1"x 8ft gray tape and ProFlex RV flexible sealant (Geocel) for fiberglass. Drilling out the pop rivets mounting the OEM assembly, I found that not only was the mounting flange was cracked at all four corners, but there were also gaps in the original factory sealant. It was very hard and time consuming to remove all of OEM sealant.
I had decided to use the square decorative wood trim around the interior perimeter of the vent assembly to hold the new assembly to the roof. From the outside, I installed two short exterior torx flathead screws just to hold the wood in place against the roof. Placing the new vent on the now reinforced roof hole, I found that the roof was warped enough that on one side some holes did not exactly line up. Probably the reason for the cracked flange. I decided against making new holes in the roof and work with the original ones. One layer of the gray tape sealant was applied only to the exterior mounting surfaces. The new vent was positioned with the holes aligned, then long exterior torx flathead screws were used to attach the vent assembly to the roof by screwing them down into the wood decorative square. I used a cordless power drill, using the same torque setting so the vent was attached with even pressure (no warping) Lastly, I sealed the torx screw heads and flange to roof seams with the ProFlex. I was able to do most of the work through the emergency exit hatch, but did need a ladder to access the rear for some work there.
The Parkliner has since been on 1800 miles of road trips and been through several heavy rains (static and while driving storms). The interior remains dry to date. While checking for leaks, I did notice that the previously leaking side was in a low spot on the roof, compounding the problem.
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:32 PM   #13
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Our 2013 had two corners of the fan broken allowing water to leak in. We cleaned the outside of the fan up and liberally applied self leveling caulking all around. So far one year and no leaks.
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Old 04-14-2019, 11:20 AM   #14
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Name: Dusty
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We recently bought a 15" late 2012 Parkliner. I have discovered leakage on each side of the table benches. With todays rain, I have discovered it seems to be flowing through the bubble wrap material under the wall covering. I am wondering what kind of sealant Parkliner used to seal around the metal band on the exterior of the trailer. I suspect it may be leaking from there. Thank you.
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