3 way fridge question - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-18-2009, 12:34 PM   #29
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These crappy fridges can't cool anything if its over 90 degrees especially after the flame blows out on the hiway.
Bring an ice chest and don't expect too much even if it has a fan.
These Dometics have many problems-feeble door latch-flame out-need interior and external venting-worthless 12V cooling to name the worst.
Sorry to be so negative but that's reality.
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:42 PM   #30
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Jim,

Nothing wrong with reality, but others seem to have good experiences with their Dometic 3-way fridges. I'm sure they are challenged when it's over 90 degrees though. I'm just curious: Does yours also have problems cooling in that hot weather if it is plugged in to shore power (I realize it uses the same cooling mechanism then)?

Also, I think they mean for you to run it via 12v connection when you are underway, if I'm not mistaken.

I suppose a "regular" electric fridge, with a compressor (vs. absorption) would work better in really hot weather, but it's so nice to be able to run it on propane, and the silence is great too (in my opinion).

Has your installation been modified in the ways that Harry suggests? How much did that help compared to the stock installation?

Raya

PS: If you really do decide to get rid of it, please advertise it here, as I don't believe one can get parts for the original Dometics we had in our older eggs (2100 model, going by memory).
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:19 PM   #31
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Quote:
Jim,

Nothing wrong with reality, but others seem to have good experiences with their Dometic 3-way fridges. I'm sure they are challenged when it's over 90 degrees though. I'm just curious: Does yours also have problems cooling in that hot weather if it is plugged in to shore power (I realize it uses the same cooling mechanism then)?

Also, I think they mean for you to run it via 12v connection when you are underway, if I'm not mistaken.

I suppose a "regular" electric fridge, with a compressor (vs. absorption) would work better in really hot weather, but it's so nice to be able to run it on propane, and the silence is great too (in my opinion).

Has your installation been modified in the ways that Harry suggests? How much did that help compared to the stock installation?

Raya

PS: If you really do decide to get rid of it, please advertise it here, as I don't believe one can get parts for the original Dometics we had in our older eggs (2100 model, going by memory).

I concur with Raya...

My first outing with my Scamp renovation, and new Dometic, was super.

I followed the advice of those here on the forum and pre-cooled my fridge with 120v before I left home. Then switched over to 12v for the four hour drive the the NOG we just put on here in Oregon. By the time I got to my camp site and unhitched, I found the beer nearly frozen! Shore power kept things cool for the duration. Of course, it wasn't 90 degrees, but I'm quite confident that the fridge will work as designed.

That said, and as you may have gathered from reading this thread, I did put a lot of thought into my entire fridge configuration, including the insulated shroud that reduces the effects (I'm told) of ambient heat.

RJ
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:59 PM   #32
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My fridge is about 3 years old-freezer not included on new models.
Never does much on 12V even with a 10ga. wire. On 110 fairly well.
Has the little fan like promoted here.
I glued a 2 in. foam board under the trailer floor-maybe helped a little.
The basic problem is there is not enough insulation outside. But that would require more space.
Look at a household propane fridge-it is huge!

I've never read any discussion about the blowout problem.
I put in perforated aluminum behind the louvers openings-no help.
Now I'm trying pink wool wads stuffed in cracks in the flame area-not tested yet.

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Old 10-18-2009, 06:36 PM   #33
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Hi Jim,

Yeah, the freezer is nice. Plus, the newer units are deeper, and stick out into the trailer.

On the perforated aluminum: It seems like the main issue with our units is getting the heat to exhaust (since what the fridge is really doing is removing heat). It gets out of the fridge but then has a hard time getting out of the trailer because we don't have "real" chimneys but only little vents.

I would think that perhaps the perforated aluminum is actually reducing airflow coming in (can't see it, so just postulating), further reducing the chimney/cooling.

I think if it were me, I would give up on using propane when driving, and would try to get the heat to more effectively transfer out of the surround.

Do you have two fans, as Harry suggested, and are they both at the top of the enclosure, and both exausting? It sounds like that is the way to go.

I wonder if there is a specific problem with your 12-volt operation, or if it is related to the general "hot air not exausting" issue?

Raya
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Old 10-18-2009, 07:14 PM   #34
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Just pitching in here,

On the older Dometics, they were not dual carb units, the new ones are so they are less sensitive to angles as the old generation, Norcold as well...

The pictures are great, in the ones I have seen I can see you are not using the Dometic access doors?...On the older trailers the louvers poke out so rain water sheds off it efficiently. The new design the louvers poke in forming scoops.

These older doors suck, they void warranties too.

There is an important design innovation to these side saddle mounted refrigerators that have come up the production line in the last decade.

It seems F.B.R.V. folks are not aware of it for what it is.

Its not just a new fancy door?

The new lower door design and matching new upper design uses an inside out scoop intrinsic to the doors venting system greatly improving heat transfer.

This is really important to the operation of side saddle mount installations.

I will try to post pics to this design at the bottom.

As hot condenser air rises in the new design doors a portion of the warm air is scooped up with the louvers from inside the space and thrown away.

The new louvers "cup" away air as it rises

Dometic requires this door vent system on all installations, it works much better than the old louvered door of old. As an installer I must upgrade to this system with each NEW install or void warranties.

Side saddle venting arrangements like I saw in the in the pics lock more heat into the compartments because the louver faces outward, maker the interior wall smooth to air.

Look at the pics, imagine you are hot air sliding and rising becoming lighter and lighter, looking at the new design ask yourself what happens to you when you brush up against the new design?
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Old 10-18-2009, 08:23 PM   #35
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That's interesting, Harry. Makes sense, too!

Those louvers are completely the opposite of what is on the older Bolers; it's exactly as you described.

For replacing the older louvers with the newer ones, is it more important to replace the bottom or the top or both? (I'm guessing based on what you said that the top one is more critical...)

Raya
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Old 10-18-2009, 08:52 PM   #36
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I would do both, but if I had to choose the top is non negotiable, a must.

Harry

Quote:
That's interesting, Harry. Makes sense, too!

Those louvers are completely the opposite of what is on the older Bolers; it's exactly as you described.

For replacing the older louvers with the newer ones, is it more important to replace the bottom or the top or both? (I'm guessing based on what you said that the top one is more critical...)

Raya
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Old 10-18-2009, 09:21 PM   #37
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I'm definitely going to replace the top vent then. The bottom one is a nice one that opens, etc. but the top is nothing special so it's a no-brainer.

Are these Dometic brand vents? Or can you name a source?

Thanks - this is going to be a great reference thread!

Raya
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:28 PM   #38
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...;category=50069

Raya,

I buy at eBay often, the lower door in this style opens, the top in this style stays closed when bought as the set...What I do is I use two lower doors so [b]BOTH open.

I like to be able to clean the upper compartment without disassembling the trailer!

Also I can service the small fan in mine at the top.

Happy Camping, Safe Trails.

Harry


Quote:
I'm definitely going to replace the top vent then. The bottom one is a nice one that opens, etc. but the top is nothing special so it's a no-brainer.

Are these Dometic brand vents? Or can you name a source?

Thanks - this is going to be a great reference thread!

Raya
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:17 PM   #39
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Harry,

Since it sounds like you've sourced quite a few refrigerator vents, I wonder if you know if it is possible to get metal ones? I went to look at the eBay ones you linked to, and I see that they are genuine Dometic, but I'm a bit hesitant to replace metal vents (that are still in good shape after 35 years) with plastic ones.

Now these may be a better plastic - and I see they can be painted - but in general I've been disappointed with RV plastic parts (such as the electrical cord access door that is completely degraded).

I'd like to get the new style vent for efficiency, but I'm going to try to find metal ones. If you know of a source, great. And/or if I find one, I'll post it here.

Raya
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Old 10-19-2009, 01:24 AM   #40
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Quote:
... fridges can't cool anything if its over 90 degrees
...worthless 12V cooling
...
Sorry to be so negative but that's reality.
FWIW
Mine now makes ice in the 90's on 120V and propane. The 12V is better suited to [b]maintain cooling while travelling. My fridge was designed to run on propane with a sealed combustion chamber with separate intake/exhaust vents. The propane works better than the 12V while travelling.
Maybe it's due to different models.
Who knows. I'm happy.
Roy
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:52 AM   #41
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Raya,

The answer is Yes and No,

I have a source where any custom door is made for me (louver machines are very expensive) but you get a conventional door like what you have, I think?

I guess the best approach would be to lay out the 24 dollars for the molded plastic one, then go to a sheet metal shop or send it to the custom cargo door maker I used and say can you get close to this stressing the cup feature in the Dometic plastic door? Or call Dometic and see if they source you to a party who can.

I have done this with ancient wheel well covers and some heater covers with success, the people in these trades always surprise me with what they can do.

While I have had sheet metal as part of my business I am in the stone age when it comes to louvers.

Happy Camping, Safe Trails.

Harry




Quote:
Harry,

Since it sounds like you've sourced quite a few refrigerator vents, I wonder if you know if it is possible to get metal ones? I went to look at the eBay ones you linked to, and I see that they are genuine Dometic, but I'm a bit hesitant to replace metal vents (that are still in good shape after 35 years) with plastic ones.

Now these may be a better plastic - and I see they can be painted - but in general I've been disappointed with RV plastic parts (such as the electrical cord access door that is completely degraded).

I'd like to get the new style vent for efficiency, but I'm going to try to find metal ones. If you know of a source, great. And/or if I find one, I'll post it here.

Raya
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:08 AM   #42
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Raya,

I understand the disappointment in the plastic parts, the new parts coming out of China are beginning to be blended plastics, they have their issues but the different plastics in the recipe lend positive qualities now to the product. I would paint the vent with a U.V. coating to toughen it up to the sun here, the cold shatter issue there is no defense against in really cold climates. The design I would like to see these guys make is make a flexible silicon one, it takes the sun, the heat and the cold, bump it there are no dents or cracks in the cold.

Harry


Quote:
Harry,

Since it sounds like you've sourced quite a few refrigerator vents, I wonder if you know if it is possible to get metal ones? I went to look at the eBay ones you linked to, and I see that they are genuine Dometic, but I'm a bit hesitant to replace metal vents (that are still in good shape after 35 years) with plastic ones.

Now these may be a better plastic - and I see they can be painted - but in general I've been disappointed with RV plastic parts (such as the electrical cord access door that is completely degraded).

I'd like to get the new style vent for efficiency, but I'm going to try to find metal ones. If you know of a source, great. And/or if I find one, I'll post it here.

Raya
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