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Old 10-21-2009, 12:18 AM   #61
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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BTW, gang, I received a note from Harry, and he's doing well and feeling good. He didn't realize that the last bit of his post had not come through, but he assures us that he'll be back soon to re-type the last bit, and to expound further upon the deep mysteries of absorption refrigeration
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:10 PM   #62
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Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
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Robert, Raya,

Im back....

I do not know what exactly happened with my post but I am back fit and handsome only now bald...Good news is "Fred in my head" is gone.

I tried to look in earlier at the postings but the cocktail I was on from post surgery was to potent to trust my answers while on that stuff, my wife said I was talking in recovery "I do not remember it" and I answered any question she asked...oops?

As per my last post before the happy pills kicked in before surgery I was bringing Scamp into the picture.

The small older Scamps in my area have always been a little touchy, Excepting the 5th wheel Scamp trailers which use the recommended Dometic doors in the building of it.

The 5th wheel owners should weigh in about any of the water issues they have with the Dometic style doors and what they do to handle the issue if any.

On the Scamp 16 and 13 footers Scamp uses their own style of vent and door...the question is why?

Since I have avoided stating what "to do" not wanting to make decisions about another owners trailer trying instead to spit out the issues in play per topic here I can definably say... "Its what Raya said." according to the post I read.

If this were my Scamp brand new from the factory I would look at installing the accessible Dometic vent in the top exhaust at least with your clever fans included.

(probably only one 12v itty bitty one and then a 120 volt itty bity one or the solar kit mentioned earlier.

Why is below...

My first bloody nose as a technician on one of those "never ending projects" we sometimes get stuck on was a 13 foot scamp refrigeration unit...I learned much from that little guy...I had one in the shop that worked great at night only and on the bench flawlessly, but you pop that refrigerator in and run the absorption cycle a few hours it would just start to crap out. I do not mean break down, they rarely do that, it would move less and less heat not matching the load.

On a hunch I took a bungie and secured a 8" mini box fan to the upper vent turning it on low, what I got at first was a lot of hot air, then in 2 hours or less the refrigerator ran great day and night.

The solar units are nice because there no battery draw, the computer cpu fans work well drawing really nothing to run just .25 amps.

I cannot see your fans Robert to know their size or amp draw, I will say I have never found a fan to small to work well, these guys just need a little push sometimes to keep the heat flowing, do not go for a tornado, if the trailer crumples in like an evacuated soda can you might have gone a wee bit to far sucking air out...

The new Dometic door design does chuck out the heat allot better with little encouragement from a mechanical fan which is why I like the design despite the minor rain issue being so open in architecture causes.

But...In the interest of full disclosure...and shooting myself in the foot here again.

I personally...have not tried to put the NEW DESIGN DOMETIC doors into a 13 foot Scamp yet. I have always just added the solar kit to problem units...and the doors were not available in my career.

I also worked on the 16s...

I think its a good idea to try? Take a looksy.

I guess Robert your the Guinea pig?

There may be a clearance issue with the thicker Dometic door?

Robert the Scamp uses a surface mounted vent at the top of the installed refrigerator as an exhaust as you know and another different vent with the access door in the bottom. I would carefully check whether there is the room ie. clearance to put in that thicker Dometic vent in?

If memory serves me right it will be close?

I would appreciate an F.Y.I. back on what you find out on your Scamp about those measures regarding the top vent possible replacement.

If it can be done, I would do it.

Thanks for the well wishes guys...

Robert you have not mentioned why the fans in your case were added? perhaps I am missing it, or what were the results after your modifications?

Happy Camping, Safe Trails.

bald Harry
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:34 PM   #63
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Hiya, Harry,

Glad you're back in fine fettle (even though you might have to change your name temporarily )

The thread lives!

Raya
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:42 PM   #64
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Quote:
Robert, Raya,

Im back....

I do not know what exactly happened with my post but I am back fit and handsome only now bald...Good news is "Fred in my head" is gone.

I tried to look in earlier at the postings but the cocktail I was on from post surgery was to potent to trust my answers while on that stuff, my wife said I was talking in recovery "I do not remember it" and I answered any question she asked...oops?

As per my last post before the happy pills kicked in before surgery I was bringing Scamp into the picture.

The small older Scamps in my area have always been a little touchy, Excepting the 5th wheel Scamp trailers which use the recommended Dometic doors in the building of it.

[b]The 5th wheel owners should weigh in about any of the water issues they have with the Dometic style doors and what they do to handle the issue if any.

On the Scamp 16 and 13 footers Scamp uses their own style of vent and door...the question is why?

Since I have avoided stating what [b]"to do" not wanting to make decisions about another owners trailer trying instead to spit out the issues in play per topic here I can definably say... "[b]Its what Raya said." according to the post I read.

If this were my Scamp brand new from the factory I would [b]look at installing the [b]accessible Dometic vent in the top exhaust at least with your clever fans included.

[b] (probably only one 12v itty bitty one and then a 120 volt itty bity one or the solar kit mentioned earlier.

Why is below...

My first bloody nose as a technician on one of those "never ending projects" we sometimes get stuck on was a 13 foot scamp refrigeration unit...I learned much from that little guy...I had one in the shop that worked great at night only and on the bench flawlessly, but you pop that refrigerator in and run the absorption cycle a few hours it would just start to crap out. I do not mean break down, they rarely do that, [b]it would move less and less heat not matching the load.

On a hunch I took a bungie and secured a 8" mini box fan to the upper vent turning it on low, what I got at first was a lot of hot air, then in 2 hours or less the refrigerator ran great day and night.

The solar units are nice because there no battery draw, the computer cpu fans work well drawing really nothing to run just .25 amps.

I cannot see [b]your fans Robert to know their size or amp draw, I will say I have never found a fan to small to work well, these guys just need a little push sometimes to keep the heat flowing, do not go for a tornado, if the trailer crumples in like an evacuated soda can you might have gone a wee bit to far sucking air out...

The new Dometic door design does chuck out the heat allot better with little encouragement from a mechanical fan which is why I like the design despite the minor rain issue being so open in architecture causes.

[b]But...In the interest of full disclosure...and shooting myself in the foot here again.

I personally...have not tried to put the NEW DESIGN DOMETIC doors into a 13 foot Scamp yet. I have always just added the solar kit to problem units...and the doors were not available in my career.

I also worked on the 16s...

I think its a good idea to try? Take a looksy.

I guess Robert your the Guinea pig?

There may be a clearance issue with the thicker Dometic door?

Robert the Scamp uses a surface mounted vent at the top of the installed refrigerator as an exhaust as you know and another different vent with the access door in the bottom. [b]I would carefully check whether there is the room ie. clearance to put in that thicker Dometic vent in?

If memory serves me right it will be close?

I would appreciate an F.Y.I. back on what you find out on your Scamp about those measures regarding the top vent possible replacement.

If it can be done, I would do it.

Thanks for the well wishes guys...

Robert you have not mentioned why the fans in your case were added? perhaps I am missing it, or what were the results after your modifications?

Happy Camping, Safe Trails.

bald Harry

Harry! Great to have you back, Amigo. So glad you and "Fred" have parted company. Best wishes on your full recovery.



After all the amazing and copious amount of info being shared by those on this thread, here's what I've decided to do with MY specific venting situation.

First, the givens:

1 Brand new 3-way Dometic 1.9cuin fridge currently working perfectly

2 Matched Dometic-specified upper and lower vents—one accessible to controls; the other, fixed to shell exterior

3 Custom-built, insulated shroud that surrounds fridge on four sides and totally restricts any fridge-exchanged heat and/or exhaust from infiltrating into the trailer interior

4 Two 12V, .2a fans; one pushing, one pulling

5 Foil-wrapped foam baffle that creates a narrower "flue" between the two vents


My final solution... (drum roll here) Until I start having a problem, I'm leaving everything as I currently have it just as it is!

With one exception: both fans will PUSH and expel the hot air (and exhaust gases) out and through upper vent.

Whew!

With summer over and my trailer going into storage, it may be a while before I can put it all to the test again. Nevertheless, thanks very much to all for your participation in this thread. I'll keep y'all posted.

RJ


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Old 10-22-2009, 08:17 PM   #65
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Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
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I love a camper when they are decisive...The best decision is always yours!



Cheers
Harry


Quote:
Harry! Great to have you back, Amigo. So glad you and "Fred" have parted company. Best wishes on your full recovery.



After all the amazing and copious amount of info being shared by those on this thread, here's what I've decided to do with MY specific venting situation.

First, the givens:

1 Brand new 3-way Dometic 1.9cuin fridge currently working perfectly

2 Matched Dometic-specified upper and lower vents—one accessible to controls; the other, fixed to shell exterior

3 Custom-built, insulated shroud that surrounds fridge on four sides and totally restricts any fridge-exchanged heat and/or exhaust from infiltrating into the trailer interior

4 Two 12V, .2a fans; one pushing, one pulling

5 Foil-wrapped foam baffle that creates a narrower "flue" between the two vents


My final solution... (drum roll here) Until I start having a problem, I'm leaving everything as I currently have it just as it is!

With one exception: both fans will PUSH and expel the hot air (and exhaust gases) out and through upper vent.

Whew!

With summer over and my trailer going into storage, it may be a while before I can put it all to the test again. Nevertheless, thanks very much to all for your participation in this thread. I'll keep y'all posted.

RJ
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