3 Way Fridge Temp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-22-2016, 04:26 PM   #15
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Thanks Clif.

I was referring to Michael's post in regards to whether I have the full vent tube going up to the roof, or a shorter run, which would mean less chimney effect for the heat being produced by the boiler. Not in regards to the actual fridge chimney.
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:13 AM   #16
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fridge

I wonder if Escape would put in a truckfridge in my new camper
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:32 AM   #17
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I think that they would put in anything that would fit as long as you would pay for it up front.
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Old 04-24-2016, 03:47 AM   #18
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Zach, while fans inside and out and adding insulation to the galley cavity can improve the performance of a working refrigerator, your problem sounds more basic. You might want to determine if the cooling unit is the source of the problem. Here is a link to how to do that:
Troubleshooting a Defective Cooling Unit


If the cooling unit is bad you may want to consider having it rebuilt. An internet search will yield several rebuilders around the country. DIY installation of a rebuilt cooling unit is an option but not a route I would choose.



I had my cooling unit rebuilt so that I could keep the original refrigerator that uses zero electricity in propane mode. Most new RV refrigerators have electronic controls that require electricity. The draw is small but 24/7. To my knowledge Dometic no longer makes a manually controlled model. Norcold makes one to fit the Bigfoot 17 galley cavity but it has less usable space than the original Dometic.
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:49 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Tim D. View Post

I had my cooling unit rebuilt so that I could keep the original refrigerator that uses zero electricity in propane mode. Most new RV refrigerators have electronic controls that require electricity. The draw is small but 24/7. To my knowledge Dometic no longer makes a manually controlled model. Norcold makes one to fit the Bigfoot 17 galley cavity but it has less usable space than the original Dometic.
It's hard to get numbers on current drain of those control boards but when I was shopping about 1/2 amp was what I found. Some would say trivial but I think 12 amp-hrs is significant. The domestic 2193 is still being sold for about $500. It has no control board.I think the two way version, 2192 is still around as well. Raz
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Old 04-24-2016, 06:46 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Tim D. View Post
...To my knowledge Dometic no longer makes a manually controlled model...
Dometic RM2410 installed in my Scamp six months ago.
It runs on propane or 120 VAC and uses no electric other than the 120 VAC heating element.
But I do not know if they have since discontinued it (I suspect not).

EDIT: Although the trailer is six months old, upon further investigation I see the fridge was made in 2014.

Perhaps I just got lucky... I would not have been happy if I got a fridge that required a constant 12 volts.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:02 AM   #21
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I stand corrected on the availability of a new manually-controlled Dometic refrigerator to fit the older Bigfoot 17. I have found an RM2410 here

Dometic RM2410 Compact Fridge Refrigerator Refer Small Single Door 2-Way Trailer RV Camper.


I downloaded the Dometic catalog from the same site. While the RM2410 is not shown in the catalog it is referenced as a replacement for the original Bigfoot refrigerator.




I remember not being able to find one a few years ago. I even spoke to Dometic about it and was told such a model was no longer available. I asked them to reinstate one. Perhaps they listened.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:16 AM   #22
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Thanks for the trouble shooting link. I'm fairly sure it's not the cooling unit. My brand new fridge in my last camper had similar issues.

Either way, I'm going to clean the burner and add a baffle and go from there.

Pretty sure my fridge has electronic controls...how did your 91 Bigfoot get a manual one? Or how to I determine if my fridge has some electric draw even on propane? It's an RM2301.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:06 AM   #23
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Mine is an RM2310. If you manually light yours and manually change mode from propane to electricity, it likely uses no electricity in propane mode.

I have chased down various refrigerator troubles over the years. Perhaps one or more of my troubles may be yours.
One time I discovered that the baffle (located within the flue) had fallen into the flue. It needs to be suspended from the top of the flue.
While staring into the flue I noticed lots of corrosion that might be falling into the burner as I bounce down the road. I bought a gun cleaning kit at Wal-Mart to get a long-handled brush for cleaning the flue. As was mentioned earlier, cover the burner to keep out the rusty bits that will fall as you clean.
Another time I had success with inverting the fridge as others have mentioned. Eventually the fridge began to have problems again so I had the cooling unit replaced with a rebuilt one.
Yet another time I discovered that the aluminum washer used with the orifice had become cracked. After replacing the washer the fridge worked better.
And yet another time oily propane odorant was clogging the orifice. Each time I cleaned the orifice (I soaked it in rubbing alcohol) the fridge would work well for a while then cease to cool effectively. The flame looked fine but was actually insufficient. I became quite proficient at orifice R&R, which can be a little tricky because of limited access. Finally someone told me to clean the propane lines and replace the old (old enough to have been recertified) propane tanks, where the odorant can collect over time and get in the lines when the propane level is low. Indeed, when I removed the line feeding the fridge, many drops of honey-like liquid came out. After cleaning the lines and replacing the tanks THAT problem went away.
After years of frustration and problem solving, and with the addition of three fans just inside the upper vent (.2a each, can turn on just one), 4 fans blowing on the interior heat transfer fins (.2a total), and an exterior baffle to channel the hot air directly to the fans, the fridge works fine even with temps in the mid-80s and high humidity. You'll get there, Zach.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:09 AM   #24
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......... how to I determine if my fridge has some electric draw even on propane? It's an RM2301.
Wiring diagram in the manual for sure. If you have no manual how far are the controls from the burner. Controls inside at the top usually means a control board of some sort. They need to increase the thermocouple voltage if the wires get too long.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:42 AM   #25
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Wiring diagram in the manual for sure. ..

One would think.. and there is one in my manual, for my fridge, but the one I found online for the OP's fridge did not have a wiring diagram and was not very helpfull. It did say:
Refrigerator models requiring 12 V DC supply
On units provided with interior light or automatic reigniter or both
there is one additional terminal block marked “12 V”. On “Three
Power” units with interior light or automatic reigniter or both there
are two additional blocks.
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Old 04-24-2016, 03:49 PM   #26
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It's really easy to find out whether a fan at the upper vent opening will help. Put a fan, any fan, at the upper vent opening. Check the temps inside the fridge, morning and evening, with the fan running. Compare them to the temps without the fan.

This is exactly what I did with my previous KZ trailer. The fridge performed horribly, so with the trailer in the back yard I hooked an O2Cool fan over the upper vent opening to suck air upward past the fridge. Within a few hours on a hot day, I had a temp spread of more than 35* compared to ambient temperature.

If yours does not respond to the experimental fan, you know you have some other problem. If it does respond, you can proceed with wiring in a muffin fan or something.
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:52 AM   #27
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I know for a fact I've got some corrosion in the flue. If I tap on it, little rust bits come out. I'll be back in Montana at the end of the week and shortly after that I'll get in and clean what I can, and I'll see how it works after that.

Like Tim said, I've got to manually start my fridge, and manually switch between gas and electric, so I guess I don't have electronic controls.

Thanks!

With my last brand new fridge which was having these problems, the issue was nasty propane gunk built up in the lines, similar to what Tim had. The tank was from 1978 (horizontal, permanently mounted tank), and the rubber lines were too long and had a few loops in them. I could hear gurgling. When I opened up the line some black goo came out. I replaced the lines with shorter, non-looping lines and the fridge worked great after that.

I have two new, full propane tanks, just sitting and waiting for my very old tanks to run out of gas.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:16 AM   #28
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[QUOTE=ZachO;583809

I have two new, full propane tanks, just sitting and waiting for my very old tanks to run out of gas.[/QUOTE]

As the propane tanks are very old is it possible the regulator is as well and is simple not supplying enough pressure for the fridge to work?

Here is another manual for your fridge with the first couple of pages giving a bit more detail on it than the previous one posted.
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