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Old 03-12-2007, 09:45 PM   #1
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Ok, being new to this and with the Scamp re-do coming along I noticed campsites list 15 amp; or 30 amp; or some even 50 amp service.
I have a normal looking plug that is powering the trailer plugged into the wall socket in the garage so I'm assuming that is the 15 amp. I see at Wally they have a 30 amp adapter that looks like you just plug away. What are the differences and do you just need the adapter? What do you find out there and what do you need to make sure you have with you so can plug in?
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:50 PM   #2
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Good question Greg. So far I have just plugged in as I have no idea what the difference is.
What should we know here about these different amps???
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Old 03-12-2007, 10:39 PM   #3
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My Fiber Stream has a 30 amp power cord feeding the converter which has 2 each 15 amp circuit breakers. One breaker powers everything on the Left (Port, Streetside) side of the trailer, and one breaker powers everything on the Right (Starboard, Curbside) side of the trailer. The Converter itself, the Water Heater electric plug-in, the Kitchen outlet, and the Dinette outlet (Where I plug in the Air Conditioner) are on the Left (Port, Streetside) and the Refridgerator, and the Microwave are on the Right (Starboard, Curbside).

I think the 30 amp connection allows you to have more items powered up all at the same time...
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:02 PM   #4
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the 30 and 50 amp services DO allow you to have more items on at once.. the more you have on, the more current draw (Thus the "amp" word)

Things like air conditoners and electric heaters pull a lot of current, and the high capacity service is generally required.

the 30 and 50 amp wires are usually a much heavier guage as well, to handle the higher draw. Be aware of what you are running, and don't assume that you can run a high draw item with a regualar 15 amp cord just because you are well equppid with adaptors. Fires can result.
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:17 PM   #5
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Thanks Gina, thought there might be more to this than met the eye.
So on my Scamp 13 the previous owner has the 4000 BTU AC plugged into the kitchen outlet and this could not be good, eh? The box only has a single circuit breaker, although there is room for two so my guess is I could upgrade this to 30A.
I was thinking that I would pull the AC out the exterior and plug into the service outlet outside when needed. If one has the Wally 30A to 15A adapter and then puts a multi-plug at point would it be a safer setup then to plug the 15A trailer power and the AC into there side-by-side. I think I confused myself....
What do you normally see in a campground and what is the best way to be prepared to plug in safely?
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:19 PM   #6
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Greg,
Your trailer will only draw as much current as it is wired for, unless somebody added extra high-demand appliances. Therefore, if there is a 30 amp outlet at your parking spot, and your trailer has a 15 amp plug, you won't hurt anything if you use an adapter designed for that purpose.
However, if your TT was wired for 30 amps (with the correct plug on the end of the cord) and you somehow managed to connect it to a park's 15 amp supply and say you tried to operate 2 air conditioners... hopefully the circuit breaker would pop before the park's wiring began a fire.
It would appear that you have a 15 amp plug on your TT's supply cord, and your garage's 15 (#14 wire)or 20 (#12 wire) amp circuit and breaker is sufficient for it's appliances.
Hope this sheds a little light on the subject without confusing the issue.
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:26 PM   #7
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Thanks, that makes sense.
So I'll just need to make sure I have the 30A to 15A adapter to be able to plug in.
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:38 AM   #8
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Greg,
Available at RV supply stores and most RV campgrounds.
Enjoy,
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:55 AM   #9
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I think WallyWorld has great prices on Camping Items.

Go to WallyWorld and purchase the 30 amp to 15 amp adapter so when you show up at a camp ground that only has the 30 amp receptacle, you will be able to plug your unit in.

15 amp will run the small air conditioner that is installed in your rig.

50 Amp is used on the really big rigs that may have multiple air conditioners, washers/dryers and other high draw items.

While you are there, be sure to purchase a water pressure limiting device so your water pressure will not exceed the limits in your camper. I prefer the BRASS one to the plastic one. Some camp grounds have a higher pressure on their water system and this device will limit that pressure to an acceptable limit.
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:57 AM   #10
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To use a 15A trailer in a 30A-equipped site, you may not even need the adapter. Camp site service points often have both the high-current outlet and normal 15A outlets.

If there is a normal 15A receptacle available, I suggest using it, since it should be protected by a 15A circuit breaker somewhere up the system; if you use the 30A receptacle you are depending on the fuse or circuit breaker in your trailer to prevent accidental overloads.
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:11 PM   #11
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Yes, what Brian B-P said...........
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:26 PM   #12
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Please remember that a good description of the service includes not just the amperage but also the voltage. Modern RV boxes generally have three services available; 15A@120VAC, 30A@120VAC (this should NOT be confused with your home dryer's 30A@240VAC, altho the plug/sockets may look alike at first -- They aren't!) and finally 50A@240VAC (which the Bulgemobile's internal wiring typically divides into two 50A@120VAC for running two major appliances simultaneously).

People have managed to change out one of the 30A plug/sockets to plug their egg into the dryer socket and managed to fry their egg...

All of the above will usually have the circuit breakers right there in the same box as the sockets. Occasionally, the 15A@120VAC may be supplemented with a 20A@120VAC and it will usually be a GFCI-protected circuit.

If your egg has 30A@120VAC, using a 30to15A@120VAC adapter will allow you to connect to a 15A@120VAC circuit and if you overload it, the CG box breaker should trip.

If you only have a 15A@120VAC egg and use a 15to30A@120VAC adapter, your protection will be the breaker inside the egg, not the CG breaker.
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:24 PM   #13
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The style of camping should help make a decision as to electrical needs. If you mostly boondock, and use few ac devices, a 15 amp service will probably be enough.

We are traveler/rvpark/hookup folks who like our creature comforts -- mostly electrically based. When hooked up at a site, we typically have the refrigerator (5 amp), lights (1 amp or less), tv (about 2 amps), possibly the microwave (9 amps), two laptops (another 2 or so amps), the battery smart-charger (up to 4 amps), air conditioner (8 amps), heater (4 amps) and possibly some other stuff. This is pushing the 15 amp maximum even when selectively using stuff, and could make some too-warm wires for comfort.

The solution was replacing the 15 amp cord with a 30 amp cord, available at rv stores. We put in a new distribution box with 2 15 amp breakers, and wired stuff so nothing was overloaded. 25,000 miles of travel with this arrangement, and I can report no electrical problems. I wired all components and plugs using #12 (good for 20 amps). I'm a firm believer in oversizing wire. The additional cost is minimal, and it carries a safety factor.

Just a note on the 50 amp service some parks offer -- as Pete mentions, it is really two 120v lines, like the 240v stove or dryer hookup in a home. There is a 50 amp adapter that lowers it to a 30 amp single line, so theoretically, one could go from a 50 amp service all the way down to a 15 amp plug, using two adapters. It would probably take a direct short to make the 50 amp breaker open, so it doesn't offer a lot of protection. On the other hand, if you have good breakers in your rig and use gfi plugs, problems should be minimal.
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:20 PM   #14
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Yikes! What is in the 16 ft Casita? Should I be doing more than just plugging in?
I have plugged into the garage regular outleg,, and also campground outlets without a problem, but I have no idea what is in these campers and what I need to do. Anyone here know?
Thanks
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:18 PM   #15
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Karalyn,
Easy answer... call the Casita factory in Rice, Tx. and get the answer to your questions from the "horse's mouth". The 800 phone # should be in the info that came with your trailer. To help put your mind at rest, I've not heard of anyone experiencing shorts or overload problems with Casitas. We also own a 2000.

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Old 03-14-2007, 09:38 PM   #16
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It's quite hard to explain on here if someone doesn't understand electricity but basically you should not be using any adapters to plug your 15 amp unit into a 30 amp plug. As has been said the problems are probably minmal but the 15 amp cord from your unit is only made to handle 15 amps while your protection at the service post is 30 amps. This means that from the adapter to the panel in the trailer you are not properly protected and there are inherent dangers, fire and personal. Once you reach the panel in the trailer your breakers there should properly protect the equipment/appliances inside the trailer. A second problem could exist if by some slim chance your panel would not take 30 amps and it could overheat by using say 25 amps of power on 2- 15 amp breakers (12 on one 13 on the other). The 15 amp breakers would not be overloaded but the panel and incoming cord would be because the 30 amp breaker would not protect them.
In other words have a knowledgable person advise you and do not use adapters because you are probably creating a dangerous situation.

I hope this is of some help. But please error on the side of safety.
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Old 03-14-2007, 10:30 PM   #17
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I have been to parks that only have 30 amp service. In my 13, I had to adapt, or have no power.

The "It's OK' to do that side is this.. even with all items on in that trailer, I could never pull that kind of current. I just did not have anythin in it that required a larger service. Only low draw lighting, or my fridge, niether went over 15a, and that even includes a cube heater.

I have the opposite problem now. My trailer plug and cord are suited for 30 amp, but most older parks do not have a 30 amp service, neither does my old house. I have to adapt down. The adapter I have is a short pigtail with the proper guage cord.

I certainly would not run my air conditioner and other items simultaniously under those conditions.

As I mentioned earlier, be aware of your systems and thier draw to be absolutely safe.
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Old 03-14-2007, 11:21 PM   #18
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If you added "under normal circumstances" to your second paragraph, you'd be correct, Gina. Neil is right; you shouldn't plug a cord capable of only 15 amps into a 30 amp receptacle as the cord would not be protected should something abnormal happen to cause a >15 but <30 amp draw. If that hapened, the cord would heat up to the point that the insulation could fail and allow a short circuit and possibly a fire. I help design the electrical systems on the equipment our company produces and that's something we need to specify - the maximum size circuit which our equipment can be connected to, for the same reason.

That said, I'd carry an adapter and if there was nothing but a 30, I'd probably use it while I was around, but unplug before I went to bed for the night.
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:10 AM   #19
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Under Normal Circumstances is absolutely correct Lee.

The engineering reality is that it's bad practice, and that would be absolutely true. The real world reality is it's unlikely that a problem will arise if you are aware of the risk and use your items appropriately. Thus my warning.

Unplugging the whole trailer when not there is also a very good idea, just as is shutting your water off when not in attendance. Niether water or electricity can flow if there is nothing pushing/pulling on them.

As mentioned in my first post, I am not a proponant of doing it incorrectly when there is any other choice, for all the reasons mentioned. But sometimes, if you have an older trailer, there isn't much of a choice. And the likelyhood of any damage is going to be rather low, to *almost* non existant if you are not trying to pull over 15 amps to start with.
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:15 AM   #20
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Hmmm.

My trailer has a 30 amp main circuit breaker. And I do have a 30A to 50A adapter and a 30A to 15A adapter. If I tried hard, say, run the AC AND a cube heater AND a microwave AND the charger running hard to replace amp hours in the battery , I could probably blow the 30 amp trailer main. That would put no more drain on the outside power pole and there would be no current in the cord. There would still be the potential for current in the cord so in the unlikely event the circuit breaker failed, I suppose I'd be in trouble.

Or, if I stuck a shovel into the outside cord even after the trailer circuit breaker blew, I suppose I could win the Darwin Award, but I expect I'd be just as dead from either 15A, 30A or 50A.

My sense of danger would be having a 30A main breaker, using a 15A extension and plugging into a 30 or 50A power pole and trying to suck 30A through that thin extension wire. I'm imagining the extension cord glowing like a light bulb filament! (Sort of a bug zapper for small pets or children I suppose. )

In life's list of camping risks (most of them related to towing in my mind) so long as my trailer's main circuit breaker matches my cord(s), I'm good.

Just my opinion. YMMV.
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