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03-23-2013, 12:25 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Sounds like you already have the new rail- why not redrill THAT so its holes match up to the ones on the trailer? You could use the old rail as a template...
You'll have to seal those old rivet holes anyway, and what better method than by putting rivets back in?
Francesca
__________________
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03-23-2013, 12:26 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Davis
Francesca, lot to think about...am respectful, taking all responses in. Thanks for sharing your concerns. I want to put a longer awning on the trailer, the one that's there now was put on with screws and rivots. the holes do not match up to the new rail so just thinking about how to do it. I don't want a lot of new holes everywhere.
I may just cut two short pieces and add to the ends of the existing one.
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Maybe some photos would help with suggestions, if you can shovel off the snow. Ha!
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03-23-2013, 12:30 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles
Sounds like you already have the new rail- why not redrill THAT so its holes match up to the ones on the trailer? You could use the old rail as a template...
You'll have to seal those old rivet holes anyway, and what better method than by putting rivets back in?
Francesca
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Makes sense to me.
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03-23-2013, 01:16 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Here's where the inner shell on the Uhauls is a problem, you can't get at the inside to reinforce a rivet or screw, only in the closet. Or you could drill right through the inner shell, then make the inner hole about 3/4" or so, put in your washer on a rivet or nut on a screw and fill the hole with a plug that you can find at most hardware stores. Our uhaul has a short awning rail, I had to cut off part of it because it had come loose and bent. Still debating as to get a new rail and awning, or continue to use the canopy over it as we have been doing.
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03-23-2013, 01:26 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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You don't need access to the inner shell/other side when using a blind riveter, which is what's used for most awning rails and many other points of attachment on fiberglass trailers.
Francesca
__________________
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Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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03-23-2013, 02:23 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles
Sounds like you already have the new rail- why not redrill THAT so its holes match up to the ones on the trailer? You could use the old rail as a template...
You'll have to seal those old rivet holes anyway, and what better method than by putting rivets back in?
Francesca
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Thanks, does make sense to me too, however I did think adding too many holes to new rail would weaken it. The existing rail is not leaking anywhere now. Going to an 8' RAIL, or add to the existing one, I know it's too long but I will make it work. The only thing 8' is the bag, the actual awning is somewhere around 7.5' so the ends of the bag can overhang but the awning needs the support on the top sides.
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03-23-2013, 02:31 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Davis
Thanks, does make sense to me too, however I did think adding too many holes to new rail would weaken it.
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The holes should not come too close to overlapping, but strength would not otherwise be compromised by adding some holes that are the same diameter as the existing ones, on the rail.
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03-23-2013, 02:31 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Here's where the inner shell on the Uhauls is a problem, you can't get at the inside to reinforce a rivet or screw, only in the closet. Or you could drill right through the inner shell, then make the inner hole about 3/4" or so, put in your washer on a rivet or nut on a screw and fill the hole with a plug that you can find at most hardware stores. Our uhaul has a short awning rail, I had to cut off part of it because it had come loose and bent. Still debating as to get a new rail and awning, or continue to use the canopy over it as we have been doing.
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Bob, I have done it all, tarps, umbrellas, Shelters, etc. I really think a good awning is the easiest. One that you can walk under and not trip over ropes. If you are going to take your shelter with you anyway, it doesn't matter. I usually take a tarp, a shelter, and have an awning. Sometimes I just want to travel light. The awning alone solves that for me. Everyones preferences may be different and that's Okay.
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03-23-2013, 02:34 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,020
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Thanks David, that's so good to know.
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03-23-2013, 03:55 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 19 ft
Posts: 134
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Let's not forget that we are dealing with fiberglass. Old holes can be and have, many, many times been filled. One would be hard pressed to find a patched hole that will never leak. It is dome on fiberglass boats, cars and our beloved fiberglass trailers.
__________________
2014 Escape 21
2008 Highlander
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03-23-2013, 04:20 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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The thing we like about using a canopy over our Uhaul while we are spending the winter in GA is it keeps the falling acorns from the Live Oaks from banging on the top of the trailer. We don't use it for short term camping. An awning would be nice, but it looks like I'll have to get one custom made to the width I want, and I don't want a bag awning, I'm also concerned about getting a good pitch without interfering with the door. I need to do some more figuring on it.
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03-23-2013, 05:47 PM
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#32
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Commercial Member
Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
Posts: 1,583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles
Sounds like you already have the new rail- why not redrill THAT so its holes match up to the ones on the trailer? You could use the old rail as a template...
You'll have to seal those old rivet holes anyway, and what better method than by putting rivets back in?
Francesca
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Excellent method there Francesca!
There are many types of VHB tape, which I use for all my products, with differing degrees of holding power. I've had requests for items which would be mounted to the exterior and just won't make them. Too much depends on how well the owner cleans everything prior to installing with tape. Rivets that don't snug up right are obvious and can be redone. Any tape issues are not visible, nor can you do periodic inspections.
I wouldn't want my products falling off and whacking a motorcycle behind me......
Charlie Y
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03-23-2013, 05:54 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,517
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Francesca,
I've atttached solar panels with mechanical fasteners and vhb strength tape. I like the tape better. Fasteners, in my case, loosened; the tape seems to be forever.
We're well in to our second year and as well fixed as the day I put them down.
__________________
Norm and Ginny
2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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03-23-2013, 06:12 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842
Francesca,
I've atttached solar panels with mechanical fasteners and vhb strength tape. I like the tape better. Fasteners, in my case, loosened; the tape seems to be forever.
We're well in to our second year and as well fixed as the day I put them down.
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Sounds like luck is on your side, Norm...so far anyway. Dunno what kind of "mechanical fasteners" you used, but since they loosened it may be that they were wrong for the application.
I'm just not much of a dice-roller, and choose my fasteners/methods very carefully and always with an eye on the worst-case scenario.
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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03-23-2013, 06:14 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842
Francesca,
I've attached solar panels with mechanical fasteners and vhb strength tape. I like the tape better. Fasteners, in my case, loosened; the tape seems to be forever.
We're well in to our second year and as well fixed as the day I put them down.
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Every thing attached to the side of a car these days is with double faced tape - like body side molding, lettering, etc.
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03-23-2013, 08:28 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
Every thing attached to the side of a car these days is with double faced tape - like body side molding, lettering, etc.
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Anything that isn't strictly decorative, such as rear view mirrors, luggage racks....bumpers?
Bling is one thing- work is something different. In my opinion carrying something as heavy/wind resistant as an awning is work, and as such would better be held on with mechanical fasteners.
Again, just my hypercaution speaking.
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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03-23-2013, 11:07 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles
Anything that isn't strictly decorative, such as rear view mirrors, luggage racks....bumpers?
Bling is one thing- work is something different. In my opinion carrying something as heavy/wind resistant as an awning is work, and as such would better be held on with mechanical fasteners.
Again, just my hypercaution speaking.
Francesca
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I have just installed my 3rd panel with VHB tape .
The first one was about 3 years ago.
I wet sanded the areas where the roof mounts are attached cleaned it with alcohol and it's tight to this day.
I was a little skeptical but anything that holds a jet together at 30,000 ft in sub zero temps has worked well for me.
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03-24-2013, 12:27 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry J
I was a little skeptical but anything that holds a jet together at 30,000 ft in sub zero temps has worked well for me.
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This I didn't know- do you mean to say that parts of jets' structural exteriors are actually held on solely with over-the-counter glue like the one under discussion here?
Thanks!
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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03-24-2013, 12:34 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,517
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One aspect of the vhb strength tape is that the area in contact holding my panels to the roof is large. Each panel is the order of a foot square and has 48 square inches of tape, a strip down each of four sides.
Nothing agains fasceners, but the tape has worked real well and apparantly in many larger applications.
__________________
Norm and Ginny
2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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03-24-2013, 01:06 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842
One aspect of the vhb strength tape is that the area in contact holding my panels to the roof is large. Each panel is the order of a foot square and has 48 square inches of tape, a strip down each of four sides.
Nothing against fasteners, but the tape has worked real well and apparently in many larger applications.
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So with 48 square inches and 70 pounds per square inch tensile strength, you are at 3360 pounds. Are you sure that is enough?
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