'80 Bigfoot trailer - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-10-2009, 11:38 PM   #1
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I just picked up a 1980 17.5' Bigfoot trailer. The ceiling panel around the air vent shows previous water damage by way of staining, cracking and buckling. The previous owner said the roof was repaired, when I looked on the roof there were some patched areas, it has not leaked since I brought it home. Now that I own the trailer should I just repaint or replace the panel around the air vent?, other suggestions? How big a job is it to replace the panel?, is the insulation glued to the panel? If anyone has done this I would be interested in knowing what is involved. thanks.
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:38 AM   #2
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I just picked up a 1980 17.5' Bigfoot trailer. The ceiling panel around the air vent shows previous water damage by way of staining, cracking and buckling. The previous owner said the roof was repaired, when I looked on the roof there were some patched areas, it has not leaked since I brought it home. Now that I own the trailer should I just repaint or replace the panel around the air vent?, other suggestions? How big a job is it to replace the panel?, is the insulation glued to the panel? If anyone has done this I would be interested in knowing what is involved. thanks.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I would like to do this work myself if possible.
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:44 AM   #3
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Glad to hear it is not leaking any more.

I take it you are talking about the inside. It wood be great if you could match the paneling and make it as good a new. Can you show us a photo?
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:20 AM   #4
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Name: Chris & Maureen
Trailer: 1994 20 ft Bigfoot 5th Wheel
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Hi, Ralph.

We had some water stains on the ceiling of our old 1984 Bigfoot, so my husband used Zinsser primer and then a coat of paint. We got the primer tinted to match the cream color of the paint. I could never have done it, since I seem to get paint everywhere but where it's supposed to be, but Chris managed to do it without getting paint on the cabinets, and it turned out nicely. I'm not sure if you can see the ceiling very well, but here's an old posting with some pictures.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry270265

Good luck!

Maureen
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Old 05-20-2009, 03:31 PM   #5
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Hi, Ralph.

We had some water stains on the ceiling of our old 1984 Bigfoot, so my husband used Zinsser primer and then a coat of paint. We got the primer tinted to match the cream color of the paint. I could never have done it, since I seem to get paint everywhere but where it's supposed to be, but Chris managed to do it without getting paint on the cabinets, and it turned out nicely. I'm not sure if you can see the ceiling very well, but here's an old posting with some pictures.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry270265

Good luck!

Maureen

Thanks for the information. I may need to replace the inside ceiling panelling though otherwise the cracks in the ceiling panel may show through? I've attached some pictures.





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Old 05-22-2009, 02:11 PM   #6
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I just picked up a 1980 17.5' Bigfoot trailer. The ceiling panel around the air vent shows previous water damage by way of staining, cracking and buckling. The previous owner said the roof was repaired, when I looked on the roof there were some patched areas, it has not leaked since I brought it home. Now that I own the trailer should I just repaint or replace the panel around the air vent?, other suggestions? How big a job is it to replace the panel?, is the insulation glued to the panel? If anyone has done this I would be interested in knowing what is involved. thanks.
I was told that Zinsser products (ceiling primer) work well for covering the water staining.
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Old 05-22-2009, 05:50 PM   #7
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Our new to us Bigfoot had at one time leaked at a vent, there was a stain and some very light damage to the ceiling. I sanded and then primed with tinted Kilz Premuim primer. Then I painted with Bear eggshell finish paint in Swiss Coffee. It's only been two weeks but all looks ok.

Maureen is right it's a lot of work.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:00 PM   #8
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Well spring has arrived and I am going to tackle this job. Last summer I repaired the leak by properly replacing the plastic roof vent with a metal one. I have also notice there is some ceiling sagging on one corner of the roof vent, the roof vent appears lopsided from the inside. My dilemma is whether I should I tear the ceiling off and re-adhere the styrofoam to the ceiling or try and fix the sag in the ceiling without tearing apart and then paint over. There is a wood border around the roof vent, when I push it up everything looks level but how can I make it stay there and what to do with the styrofoam? Does anyone have any suggestions? I hope I'm not over my head on this one!

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Our new to us Bigfoot had at one time leaked at a vent, there was a stain and some very light damage to the ceiling. I sanded and then primed with tinted Kilz Premuim primer. Then I painted with Bear eggshell finish paint in Swiss Coffee. It's only been two weeks but all looks ok.

Maureen is right it's a lot of work.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:23 PM   #9
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Well spring has arrived and I am going to tackle this job. Last summer I repaired the leak by properly replacing the plastic roof vent with a metal one. I have also notice there is some ceiling sagging on one corner of the roof vent, the roof vent appears lopsided from the inside. My dilemma is whether I should I tear the ceiling off and re-adhere the styrofoam to the ceiling or try and fix the sag in the ceiling without tearing apart and then paint over. There is a wood border around the roof vent, when I push it up everything looks level but how can I make it stay there and what to do with the styrofoam? Does anyone have any suggestions? I hope I'm not over my head on this one!
Is always my policy to know the truth or in your case the extent of the damage from the leak and then you can make a decision on how to fix it. I wouldn't ignore it since it sounds like the inside panel is starting to give way from the insulation. I would hesitate to rip the roof off. When you replaced the roof vent were you able to peer between the panel and insulation? It may be possible to correct the problem by injecting an adhesive at this point and save yourself a lot of work and trouble from removing the panel altogether.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:30 PM   #10
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I just took another good look at your first picture and it seems you have stain and buckling of the panel all around the vent. You can remove the bottom shroud of the vent to see between the insulation and panel and try to determine the extent of the damage. From the picture I think it might be difficult to hide the buckling. Replacing an entire panel would be quite a chore I think as the panel goes from wall to wall. You might be able to cut out the damaged area around the vent and replace. Your challenge then would be to hide the seams of the patch. Let us now what you decide.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:42 AM   #11
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Yes, the ceiling panel may be too far gone to keep. Like you say I could cut out the damaged area around the vent but then hiding the seams may be difficult, perhaps not. When I dropped the bottom shroud and looked up it appeared the styrofoam insulation had dropped (delaminated) from the fibreglass roof. The roof itself has buckled and therefore makes the vent look crooked, if I push on the corner of the vent from the inside of the trailer it straightens out but it won't stay that way without pressure. There is not enough room to get in there with the wooden frame around the vent blocking access. I think if this is to be done correctly I should remove the inside ceiling panel, install some sort of strut across the width of the trailer to straighten the vent and then re-adhere the insulation to the fibreglass roof. This is assuming the ceiling will come off easily enough from under the cupboards, it appears the ceiling is in 3 sections and I would only be dealing with the center portion. I will look at it again after work and make some sort of a decision ...lots of fun!

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I just took another good look at your first picture and it seems you have stain and buckling of the panel all around the vent. You can remove the bottom shroud of the vent to see between the insulation and panel and try to determine the extent of the damage. From the picture I think it might be difficult to hide the buckling. Replacing an entire panel would be quite a chore I think as the panel goes from wall to wall. You might be able to cut out the damaged area around the vent and replace. Your challenge then would be to hide the seams of the patch. Let us now what you decide.
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:00 AM   #12
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I don't know the Bigfoot trailers, specifically (and everyone has their own definition of "fixed"), but looking at that ceiling panel, I would say it's past repairing. I think I would want to take it down, repair the roof sag, and then put up a new panel.

Again, I'm not familiar with the Bigfoot roof construction (it almost looks more like a stick-built, but in fiberglass?, with interior paneling and such?), but if the actual fiberglass roof is sagging, and you do indeed have access to it after removing the inside panel and the foam insulation, you might consider reinforcing it with a pre-formed fiberglass angle (if it's flat -- is it?), or something else that you can 'glass to the underside of the roof before reassembly.

Fiberglass has the advantage of being "stickable" to the trailer shell itself with no mechanical fasteners, and also of being reasonably impervious to water and damp (not that you want to have either of those inside the trailer...)

Raya
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:40 PM   #13
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Ralph,
It seems you are joining the sagging Bigfoot roof group. Removing what is there and fiberglassing in struts/rafters in the appropriate curve seems the way to go. There is a couple threads on doing this on the boards. We have not tackled our roof yet, it's probably going to take a few weekends to complete and we haven't had the time.

Raya,
No the roof is not flat. The roof has to be re arched, probably a bit past normal to allow for a bit of resag. The construction of the roof is "laminated". Depending on the year model it can be fiberglass shell/roof, Styrofoam type insulation, and interior ceiling panel or on newer models it's fiberglass, plywood, insulation, and the ceiling panel. The older ones quite frequently start sagging, some delaminate, some the whole structure sags. There are a few kerfed wood struts in the roof on ours but they are sagging too.

Fun, fun, fun in Bigfoot land! I still love ours though!
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:21 AM   #14
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Can anyone tell me what the best type of adhesive would be to adhere the fibreglass roof to the ceilings white styrofoam insolation? I'm concerned some adhesives or epoxies may melt the styrofoam. thanks.

Quote:
Ralph,
It seems you are joining the sagging Bigfoot roof group. Removing what is there and fiberglassing in struts/rafters in the appropriate curve seems the way to go. There is a couple threads on doing this on the boards. We have not tackled our roof yet, it's probably going to take a few weekends to complete and we haven't had the time.

Raya,
No the roof is not flat. The roof has to be re arched, probably a bit past normal to allow for a bit of resag. The construction of the roof is "laminated". Depending on the year model it can be fiberglass shell/roof, Styrofoam type insulation, and interior ceiling panel or on newer models it's fiberglass, plywood, insulation, and the ceiling panel. The older ones quite frequently start sagging, some delaminate, some the whole structure sags. There are a few kerfed wood struts in the roof on ours but they are sagging too.

Fun, fun, fun in Bigfoot land! I still love ours though!
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