'84 Burro 13' bearing and seal numbers? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-21-2013, 03:32 PM   #1
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'84 Burro 13' bearing and seal numbers?

Anyone know these numbers: inner and outer wheel bearings and inner and outer grease seals? Thanks,

Tom
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:16 PM   #2
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My SWAG both 1" or maybe 1-1/16". I'm assuming you've got a 1500 or 2000 lb. Henschen. Hard to find info on this. 3000lb. Henschen has 1-3/8" inner and 1-1/16" outside. Only one grease seal--the inner. There is an embossed plate on Henschen axles which at least gives the capacity but certainly no specs on the spindle or bearings. If you can't find out, you might as well pull the hub and get the numbers off the bearing cages.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:40 PM   #3
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NAPA stores can measure your seal and find you one by the measurements alone.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:00 PM   #4
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Yep. God only knows. Get the numbers off the bearings, and take the seals in to be measured. Any half competent parts store should be able to do it. If they start drooling on themselves, ask them for the book and a caliper and do it yourself. If they hand you one that's kind of close, but not quite right, they're being lazy. Slap them and tell them to keep looking.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:10 AM   #5
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FOUND THEM: "Timken/1 in. straight trailer wheel bearing kit with seal 203025, cotter pin, grease pack and 2 SET14 (each set contains cone L44643 and cup L44610)"

Autozone P/N BT100

Timken/1 in. straight trailer wheel bearing kit with seal 203025, cotter pin, grease pack and 2 SET14 (each set contains cone L44643 and cup L44610) (BT100) | Trailer Bearing | AutoZone.com

$21.99 per wheel an my location.

Cleaned everything up, heated the races in the oven at 450 for hour, drove them in with an appropriate sized socket. Used Mobil 1 synthetic grease..
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:59 AM   #6
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Tractor Supply has them packaged and displayed in the trailer section.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:25 AM   #7
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Glad you found the correct size. Why would you heat the races before seating? Heating won't make them smaller. I must be missing something here. Wouldn't throwing them in the freezer be a better choice?

Incidentally, there are certainly a lot of us who love our big sockets for seating races. Aluminum race and seal setter sets are so cheap despite getting several sizes you'll probably never use that I wonder why so many settle for the Tom Joad/McGiver approach?

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Old 02-24-2013, 02:39 PM   #8
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Heating the races, that is something I have never heard of. If the races are heat treated at the factory to make them to a specified hardness I would think you may make them something other than what they were designed for by heating them to 450 in the oven.

This is a subject that needs an answer.
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:52 PM   #9
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No metallurgist or even a lot of heat treat experience but I would guess that a slow heat at 450F might well temper to a hardness below the original. Anybody know?

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Old 02-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #10
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I'm with Jack, I'd put them in the freezer, then press them in with a bearing driver.

I can maybe see heating the hubs in an oven, but I'd stick with tator tots.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:21 PM   #11
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If one is around, I'll usually chuck the races in a freezer for a bit. If not, no biggie, it's a mild press fit.
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:28 PM   #12
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Jack, I think the tempering comes from how you cool the item.
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:34 PM   #13
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Tempering steel:
http://www.asminternational.org/pdf/.../tempering.pdf
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:34 PM   #14
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Darwin, you're correct that quenching at a certain temper color is necessary to fix a certain level of hardness. A heat soak and slow cooling anneals carbon steel and leaves it dead soft. Same result as if quenched under the necessary level of hardness as it pertains to wheel bearings.


Jack
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